Bédoin, a Cycling Village at the Foot of the Giant of Provence
In 1794, sixty-three residents of this Vaucluse village were guillotined or shot for refusing to name those who had torn down the village's liberty tree. That tragic history left its mark in the stone, and Saint-Pierre Church, partially destroyed during the Revolution, still looms over the ochre rooftops of a town that managed to rise from its ashes.
Two centuries later, other heroes suffer on these very roads. Thousands of cyclists from around the world take on the 21-kilometer climb to the summit of Mont Ventoux every year, the famous hors catégorie mountain pass of the Tour de France.
Bédoin, Haven for Athletes and Provençal Epicureans
This village of 3,000 residents caters primarily to cycling enthusiasts, hikers, and lovers of wide open spaces. Cyclists find the zero kilometer mark for the most legendary climb in French cycling here. Hikers explore the largest communal forest in France, home to 1,200 plant species. Epicureans indulge in AOC Ventoux wines, local olive oil, and fresh produce from the Monday market.
If you are looking for nightlife or a beach, keep moving. A car remains essential for exploring the surrounding area. But for anyone who appreciates Provençal quiet, shaded cafe terraces beneath plane trees, and the daily sight of locals chatting near fountains, Bédoin offers an authentic slice of Provence without the pretense.
A Reasonable Budget for Provence
Expect to pay between $79 and $135* a night for a double room in a boutique hotel. Restaurants offer set menus starting at $29*. High-end bike rentals run around $57* a day.
Climbing Mont Ventoux from the South Slope
The ride starts at the village center roundabout. The first 5.5 kilometers up to the Saint-Estève bend let you warm up on a moderate 4.5% grade. Then the road plunges into the forest and the real challenge begins, with 9.5 kilometers averaging over 9% all the way up to Chalet Reynard. There is no relief and nowhere to catch your breath. The air sits heavy and still among the pines, even when the mistral wind howls at the peak.
Past Chalet Reynard, the landscape turns lunar. The final 6 wind-exposed kilometers lead to the col des Tempêtes, and then up to the summit at 1,909 meters. At kilometer 20.8, the Tom Simpson memorial marks the spot where the British rider died in 1967. Cyclists leave water bottles and cycling caps there as a tribute. For a well-trained amateur, plan on 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes of hard effort.
Friendly tip: head out early in the morning to beat the heat in the forest. Pack a windbreaker for the top, where the temperature can drop 15 degrees compared to the village. Food and water are available at Chalet Reynard.
The Village and Its 15 Fountains
The medieval core of Bédoin is worth lingering in. The imposing Saint-Pierre Church, built between 1708 and 1736 in the Jesuit style, surprises visitors with an almost Mexican look. Its wrought-iron bell tower, a Provençal staple, contrasts with that foreign architecture. Around it, narrow alleyways wind between stone houses featuring ochre facades and blue or green shutters.
The village's 15 fountains once dictated the rhythm of daily life. Today, you will still spot locals chatting there with water bottles in hand. The Draio du Barry, the old rampart path, offers a shaded walk with views of the rooftops and Ventoux in the background. Three kilometers away on the road to Malaucène, the 11th-century chapelle de la Madeleine stands as one of the finest examples of Provençal Romanesque art.
Hiking and Exploring Around Ventoux
Numerous marked trails crisscross the massif. The GR91B starts in the village and heads north, allowing you to reach the summit on foot in a single day. For families, the Combe de Curnier offers a walk through a wooded ravine with impressive rock faces. Rock climbers gather at the Combe Obscure, a well-known climbing site at the foot of the Madeleine chapel.
A curious sight awaits visitors on the small D19 road toward Malaucène: llamas grazing along the roadside. They belong to an experimental farm in Le Barroux that opens its doors to the public. The Demoiselles Coiffées, rock formations sculpted by erosion, create an ochre landscape worthy of the American West. The lac du Paty, a few kilometers away, provides a cool spot to escape the heat in the summer.
The Monday Market and Ventoux Wines
Every Monday morning, the pedestrian village hosts one of the finest markets in Provence. Around twenty local producers sell cherries, apricots, figs, goat cheese, and cold-pressed olive oil. AOC Ventoux wines sit next to tapenade, fresh basil, and lavender honey. The atmosphere stays laid-back and family-friendly, far from the tourist-heavy markets of Gordes or L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
The cave des Vignerons du Mont Ventoux, founded in 1924 at the entrance of the village, offers tastings. The certified organic Domaine les Patys also produces an exceptional olive oil. Truffle enthusiasts can stock up at the market in Richerenches, an hour's drive away, between November and March.
Where to Eat and Drink in Bédoin?
Hôtel des Pins houses the restaurant L'Esprit Jardin, a fine dining spot that highlights local market ingredients. The living plant wall in the dining room creates a soothing atmosphere. On the road to Ventoux in the hamlet of Sainte-Colombe, Le Guintrand has served traditional cuisine since 1800. Game meats in winter and a shaded terrace in summer make this spot a favorite for passing cyclists.
In the village, the terraces along avenue Barral des Baux serve simple Provençal dishes. The grocery store Ô saveurs du Ventoux acts as a caterer and stocks local products. For a picnic before the climb, load up on quince paste, almonds, and goat cheese at the Monday market.
How to Get to and Around Bédoin?
From Avignon, plan on a 45-minute drive via the D942 and then the D974. Marseille-Provence airport is 1 hour 15 minutes away by car. The Avignon TGV train station gets you to Paris in 2 hours 40 minutes. Public transit does not serve the village properly, so a car is essential.
From Lyon, figure on 2.5 hours via the A7 and the Orange-Sud exit. From Nice, it is about 3 hours via the A8 and A7. Free parking at the village entrances fills up and gets complicated on Monday mornings because of the market. To rent a road bike or mountain bike, several specialized shops operate on the main avenue.
When to go?
The best time to visit runs from May to October. Lavender fields bloom in July around Sault, a 30-minute drive away. July and August draw heavy crowds of cyclists. The Ventoux road generally closes from mid-November to mid-April depending on snow cover. The Richerenches truffle market brings life to the winter months between November and March.
Do you love wide-open spaces, hiking, nature, and breathtaking views? Then Bédoin is made for you! I really loved the open areas, the vineyards, and the walk to the demoiselles coiffées! A quick tip: check ahead of time to see if there are any bike races going on. It will save you some headaches (unless you are coming to participate?).