Holbrook, Arizona: where sleeping in a wigwam is anything but a cliché
Until 1913, Holbrook was the only county seat in the United States without a church. The town had earned a harsh reputation summed up by its nickname: "Too Tough for Women and Churches". This was the era of cowboys, saloon brawls, and the Pleasant Valley War, one of the bloodiest vendettas in the West.
Today, concrete dinosaurs have replaced the outlaws. Wigwam-shaped motels welcome road-trippers chasing the ghost of Route 66. Just 20 minutes away, tree trunks that are 225 million years old sparkle under the desert sun.
A great stop for fans of American nostalgia
Holbrook appeals directly to devotees of Route 66 and vintage Americana. The town has fewer than 5,000 residents and you can drive across it in ten minutes. People come here for a specific reason: to sleep in a wigwam, photograph kitschy dinosaurs, and explore Petrified Forest National Park. Families traveling with kids enjoy the playful roadside attractions. Photographers will find plenty of material to fill their memory cards with neon signs, 1950s cars, and badlands scenery.
On the flip side, if you are looking for fine dining, major museums, or a lively nightlife scene, keep driving. Holbrook remains a stopover town rather than an extended vacation destination. Plan for half a day to explore downtown, or a full day if you add the national park. The desert climate hits hard in the summer, with temperatures frequently climbing past 95°F. Spring and autumn are much better choices.
An affordable budget for the American Southwest
Expect to pay $90 to $135* for a night at the iconic Wigwam Motel. Classic motels drop down to $57-$79*. A meal at a local diner runs $12-$17*. Admission to Petrified Forest National Park costs $25* per vehicle, valid for 7 days.
The Wigwam Motel and the icons of the Mother Road
It is impossible to talk about Holbrook without mentioning the Wigwam Motel. Fifteen concrete wigwams arranged in a semicircle, vintage cars parked out front, and a neon sign that buzzes to life at dusk. Chester Lewis opened this spot in 1950 during the golden age of Route 66. The motel closed in 1974 when Interstate 40 bypassed the town. His children renovated and reopened it in 1988. It now sits on the National Register of Historic Places.
The rooms keep things rustic with period hickory wood furniture, a small flat-screen TV, air conditioning, and a compact bathroom. There is no mini-fridge or microwave. The charm lies entirely elsewhere. Pixar actually drew inspiration from here to design the Cozy Cone Motel in the movie Cars.
Friendly tip: book several months in advance, especially in the spring and fall. The 15 wigwams fill up fast, and this is the only experience of its kind on Route 66 in Arizona.
Concrete dinosaurs and petrified wood
The Rainbow Rock Shop lines up seven concrete dinosaurs right on the Navajo Boulevard sidewalk. Adam Luna, the owner, built them by hand over a span of more than twenty years starting in 1986. Smiling brontosauruses, easygoing T-Rexes, and colorful triceratops give the whole place a charmingly quirky vibe. The shop sells petrified wood, geodes, and fossils at all price points.
For a more serious rock collection, head to Jim Gray's Petrified Wood Company. Acres of petrified wood are piled high around the building. Inside, a small museum displays remarkable specimens. You will also find jewelry, coffee tables carved from fossilized logs, and high-end display pieces priced at several thousand dollars.
The Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert
Petrified Forest National Park stretches out 19 miles east of Holbrook. It stands out as the only American national park crossed by the historic alignment of Route 66. A 28-mile scenic drive winds between two park entrances, offering sweeping views of the Painted Desert badlands to the north and the petrified wood deposits to the south. Plan for 3 to 5 hours for a complete visit.
The fossilized logs date back to the Triassic period, 225 million years ago. Minerals replaced the organic wood cell by cell, creating brilliant shades of red, yellow, and purple. At Newspaper Rock, more than 650 petroglyphs carved by ancestral Puebloans bear witness to human presence going back 2,000 years. The Blue Mesa Trail offers a one-mile hike right through hills of pale blue clay.
Friendly tip: enter through the southern gate via Highway 180 to see the petrified wood first, then head north to finish your day with sunset views over the Painted Desert.
A local curiosity: Holbrook sake
In this small Arizona desert town, Atsuo Sakurai produces craft sake. His Arizona Sake won the title of "World's Best Sake Made Outside Japan" at a Tokyo competition in 2018. It makes for an unexpected yet memorable stop for enthusiasts.
Where to eat and drink in Holbrook?
The local food scene is straightforward. Joe & Aggie's Café serves hearty Tex-Mex fare in a retro dining room. The original owners even inspired characters like Stanley and Lizzie in the movie Cars. The Butterfield Stage Co. Steak House dishes out thick steaks in an Old West setting.
For breakfast, classic diners line the highway. Eggs, pancakes, and endless coffee provide the quintessential American road trip fuel. Local grocery stores make it easy to pack a picnic for the national park, where dining options are limited to a snack bar at the visitor center.
Where to stay in and around Holbrook?
The Wigwam Motel remains the standout landmark, but several alternatives line Hopi Drive and Navajo Boulevard. Brad's Desert Inn offers themed Route 66 rooms with murals and parking right outside your door. Standard highway chains like Best Western provide dependable comfort if you prioritize space.
RV travelers will find the Holbrook/Petrified Forest KOA right off Interstate 40, featuring full hookups, clean showers, and easy access to nearby sights.
How to get to and around Holbrook?
Holbrook sits directly on Interstate 40, 93 miles east of Flagstaff and 34 miles east of Winslow. Driving from Phoenix takes about 3 hours. From Albuquerque, expect roughly 3.5 hours. The nearest commercial airport is in Flagstaff, but the vast majority of visitors arrive by car as part of a wider road trip.
Once you arrive, a car is essential. Downtown is easy to walk around in an hour, but sights like the Petrified Forest or Meteor Crater require a vehicle. There is no public transit serving the area.
When to go?
Spring and autumn bring the most comfortable weather, with daytime temperatures hovering between 60 and 77°F. Summer can be intense, with heat spikes climbing past 95°F. Winter days stay mild, though nighttime temperatures often drop close to freezing. With Route 66 celebrating its centennial, expect special events and heavier traffic all along the route.
Holbrook is a roadside town in Arizona, right on the famous Route 66. It is the gateway to the Petrified Forest. I had the experience of sleeping in a hard-sided teepee at a very original motel, the Wigwam Motel. The price is really good, and it is best to book in advance. Just a heads up that restaurants close early because the town is pretty dead. You only stay here to spend the night. The advantage is that it is a perfect place to break up the drive.