Visiting Ilha do Mel
Ilha do Mel, or Honey Island, sits off the southern coast of Brazil in the state of Paraná, right at the mouth of the Paranaguá Bay. Stretching about ten kilometres long, this entirely pedestrian island has only a few villages. The two main ones are Encantadas and Nova Brasilia, where boats drop you off after the crossing from the mainland. Human presence on the island goes back more than 6,000 years. In the 16th century, Portuguese colonists settled here to farm sugarcane, an activity that may have given the island its name. Ilha do Mel is narrow, spanning just a few hundred metres across at its widest points, and its central isthmus shrinks to a mere 30 metres wide. Portions of this narrow strip actually flood at high tide. The northern half of the island consists of a protected natural reserve off-limits to humans.
Sights to see on Ilha do Mel
Beyond its relaxed pace and untouched natural surroundings, Ilha do Mel holds a few spots you should not miss. Down in the southern part of the island, Encantadas offers convenient amenities and easy access to one of the island's finest stretches of sand, Praia das Fora. This beach features a natural sea cave, the Gruta das Encantadas, accessible on foot at low tide. Further north, make the climb up to the Farol das Conchas lighthouse, built in 1872. Scaling its 400 steps rewards you with sweeping views across the entire island.
Plan your walk to the Forte de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres around low tide. The Portuguese started building this imposing fortress in 1767 to guard the bay entrance. Walking along the ramparts lets you inspect cannons dating back to that era, while other parts of the site preserve remnants of World War II trenches.
The stunning beaches of southern Brazil
Ilha do Mel features several large and striking beaches. Praia do Farol runs right along the base of the Farol das Conchas and draws surfers looking for decent breaks. For a quieter atmosphere, head to Praia da Fortaleza, offering four kilometres of white sand backed by wild coastal vegetation. If you prefer more activity and dining options nearby, Praia de Encantadas hosts most of the island's social scene.
To take in the coastal scenery on foot, follow the walking trail that traces the shoreline between Encantadas and Nova Brasilia.
When to go
The best time to visit southern Brazil runs from May to August. This period marks the austral winter, bringing drier weather and comfortable daytime temperatures.
How to get there
Make your way to Curitiba, where frequent buses depart for Paranaguá and Pontal do Sul, both of which offer ferry service to Ilha do Mel. Pontal do Sul makes the most practical departure point since the boat departures run more often and the crossing is shorter. You can choose to dock at either Encantadas or Nova Brasilia.
To start, to get to Ilha do Mel, you will arrive at either Encantadas (my case) or Nova Brasília coming from Pontal do Sul or Paranagua (my case again). Access is by boat in any case. It is a wonderful, pedestrian only island where life is good. The beaches, the lighthouse, the cave, and the fortress are the things to do and see, but the best part is just to stay and breathe far from big cities and maybe go for a swim. You definitely need to get informed before going because only 5,000 tourists are allowed to visit the island each year. Also, to get to Paranagua or Pontal do Sul, buses from Curitiba go there every day, or you can hitchhike, but that is a bit more dangerous and adventurous, though that is another story :)