Paris and its Eiffel Tower, Paris and its Champs-Élysées, Paris and its Louvre Museum… It all seems so obvious for anyone looking to set off and explore our beautiful, romantic capital!
But had you considered Paris and its covered passages and quirky galleries?
Admittedly, these improbable spots are less well-known to the general public and tucked away in the small streets of Paris, but they are true hidden gems. They offer a chance to dive back into the heart of the 19th century, into the fashionable atmosphere of corseted gowns and a Paris emerging from the French Revolution, then in the midst of major demographic, industrial, and urban change.
So, are you ready for this slightly offbeat, less conventional tour of Paris, but one just as exciting and full of surprises?
Trust me, close your eyes and let me guide you on a unique journey through time…
But before we tread the floors of these ancient vestiges that recall the splendor and frivolity of an era rich in twists and turns, let’s first look at their origins and discover how these places steeped in history came to be.
The history of Parisian covered passages
Once upon a time, there were the covered passages and galleries of Paris…
The 1780s: The Duke of Orléans needs money
For this little retrospective, let’s set our clocks back to the 1780s, a time when the Duke of Orléans, then owner of the Palais Royal, found himself on the verge of ruin. He felt compelled to find a quick solution to bail out his palace and cover his extravagant expenses. What better way than a major real estate speculation project involving the construction of shopping arcades at the base of his building? At the time, the idea was to build structures with arcades and shops on the ground floor on all four sides of his palace to collect rent. It was a revolutionary and financially promising idea, but it was quickly abandoned for lack of funds.
What to do in the face of this crushing failure? There was no way he was giving up! To recoup the costs of the project, the Duke of Orléans found a backup plan by deciding to fill the unfinished space with temporary stalls housing three rows of shops served by two covered walkways. And it was an instant success! With their eighty-eight shops bringing together fashion merchants, wigmakers, café owners, print sellers, reading rooms, bookstores, and other tradespeople, these "wooden galleries" of the Palais Royal became the favorite attraction for Parisians and visitors alike, the place to be seen, to stroll, to shop, or even… to get into a bit of trouble!
The first half of the 19th century: The golden age of covered passages
And so, the prototype for the covered passages and galleries of Paris was born. They quickly multiplied, driven by savvy speculators who saw the Duke of Orléans' idea of renting out shops and their associated living quarters as the most profitable investment of the era. It was primarily on vacant land confiscated from the nobility and clergy in the aftermath of the French Revolution that these speculators saw the perfect opportunity to build the first covered passages. The space, now available and well-located in the center of Paris, was redeveloped; the new owners (or rather, financiers!) of the land, houses, and private mansions tore down existing buildings and their gardens to rebuild one- or two-story structures. In their centers, they built actual galleries with at least one entrance and one exit to create a shortcut between two streets, facilitating access to the city's busiest areas. This is how about thirty covered passages were built during the Restoration (1814, 1830) and the July Monarchy (1830, 1848), mainly on the Right Bank of the Seine, attracting the wealthy clientele of the time.
While these passages were widely frequented from their inception, they reached their true peak in the 1850s. Fleeing a Paris still heavily marked by remnants of the Middle Ages, namely the lack of sidewalks, no electricity, and the presence of mud in streets filled with foul odors and deafening noise, strollers sought refuge at all costs in these sheltered spots, which showcased the technical prowess of the era. Indeed, what could be better than these covered, glass-roofed, heated, and gas-lit galleries to walk with dry feet and window-shop, safe from the elements and the dangers of the city?
This is how these sites quickly became a preferred promenade for the new, wealthy, and spendthrift bourgeoisie, as well as a space for balls, gallantry, meetings, and entertainment.
The end of the 19th century: The decline
But alas, like all good things that must come to an end, this success was only fleeting… The arrival of Haussmann’s renovations (and with them, sewers!) and the 20th century, the development of the railway, the massification of the economy, the rise of department stores (such as the Printemps department store in 1865, the Samaritaine in 1870, or the Galeries Lafayette in 1894), and the growing importance of the car would mark the gradual decline of these covered passages. They were slowly abandoned by Parisians and tourists in search of larger spaces and mass-market products. Notably, of the 150 galleries that existed in Paris in 1850, only about twenty survive today, saved by the City of Paris, which, aware of the value of this unique and exceptional architectural heritage, launched a renovation and conservation aid program for these Parisian covered passages.
"Covered passage" or "gallery"?
Ah, one moment, please, I hear a question over here: "What is the difference between a passage and a gallery?"
Beyond the idea of aesthetic superiority (with larger dimensions and richer decoration) introduced by the term "gallery," there is nothing else that distinguishes a gallery from a passage. Both designate a space generally located between two buildings, covered by a glass roof, and most often housing shops. Their function is to protect and facilitate pedestrian traffic by connecting two streets, usually busy ones, thereby offering a shortcut.
But let’s stop our chatter, because I have put together a selection of 5 covered passages and galleries that you absolutely must see. All of them are more fabulous than the last and relatively close geographically (in the 9th and 2nd arrondissements of Paris), so you can discover them on foot in a single day. Let’s take a closer look.
1, The Passage Verdeau (or the antique dealers' passage)
Let’s start our stroll at the Passage Verdeau, which begins at 6 rue de la Grange-Batelière and ends at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris.
One detail catches our eye here: its remarkable, very high, fishbone-patterned glass roof with clean, neoclassical lines, making this one of the brightest, airiest, and most charming passages in Paris.
But who do we have to thank for this architectural masterpiece?
This passage, 75 meters long and 3.75 meters wide, is the work of the Passage Jouffroy company, which created it in 1846. Monsieur Verdeau, who was a major shareholder in this company at the time, gave his name to the passage. And for a little fun fact, know that Monsieur Verdeau was the man who invented the concept of "linen rental" for hotels, restaurants, and other events.
While this covered passage was long less popular than its neighbors and relatively less prosperous financially because it didn't connect two boulevards, the installation of the prestigious Hôtel des Ventes Drouot (THE hub of the French and international art market), which opened nearby in 1980, changed the game. It revitalized the passage, where many antique dealers set up shop and where art lovers from all over the world now flock. It’s easier to understand why some nickname it the "Passage des Antiquaires" or "Passage Drouot"!
But antique dealers aren't the only masters of the premises; you can also find fantastic bookstores and art galleries in this passage holding historical treasures, as well as restaurants, including the famous "Bistrot Verdeau," which brings our grandmothers' delicious recipes back to life and from where you can gaze at a magnificent, large clock right from your plate.
But what could this clock possibly be for? Is it set up to make you hurry your fork?
Certainly not! In reality, many covered passages filled with shops were originally built near stagecoach stops; it was a very practical way for passengers of the time to do some shopping while waiting for their transport. This clock (just like others you might encounter in certain passages) allowed these travelers to keep an eye on the time while shopping so they wouldn't miss their coach.
By the way, speaking of time, know that this passage can be visited for free from Monday to Friday, from 7:30 AM to 9:00 PM, and on weekends, from 7:30 AM to 8:30 PM.
2, The Passage Jouffroy (or the most modern passage)
Let’s leave the Passage Verdeau now and head a few meters away to discover the Passage Jouffroy, which spreads its majesty from 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière to 10-12 boulevard Montmartre, still in the 9th arrondissement.
Serving as a junction between the Passage Verdeau and the Passage des Panoramas, this passage was inaugurated in 1846 by Count Felix de Jouffroy-Gonsans and was distinguished at the time by its modernity and the technological and architectural advances it showcased. Indeed, the Passage Jouffroy was the first passage in the capital built entirely of metal and glass and also the first to benefit from underfloor heating. (Something to delight the legs of our ladies of the era!).
The undeniable proof of this is the magnificent self-supporting ogival glass roof, which lets in maximum light and sets the precious marble paving ablaze, a floor that has been trampled throughout history by visitors coming to discover its eclectic shops, such as the collector’s cane seller, the bookstore specializing in rare art books, the toy merchant that acts like a Madeleine de Proust, or the original boutique selling oriental items. Not to mention the iconic Hôtel Chopin, dating back to the passage's opening in 1846, which owes its name to the famous composer who regularly passed through the gallery to get to the Pleyel piano showrooms from his home. That is the official version, the most politically safe and reasonable one given at the time… But legend has it that our naughty Chopin arranged to meet George Sand in this famous hotel! That, of course, remains to be verified…
While the variety and originality of the shops it houses made this busy passage famous, the installation of the Musée Grévin nearby in 1882 didn't hurt its success. With its exit right inside the passage, the museum, which has never ceased to attract a large number of curious people coming to admire its famous wax figures, made Jouffroy "the most frequented passage of all, the most sought-after by merchants," according to the newspaper L’Egalité.
Hence, perhaps, its more flexible hours, with an opening every day from 7:00 AM to 9:30 PM and free admission.
3, The Passage des Panoramas (or the philatelists' passage)
Let’s cross the street now, or rather the Boulevard Montmartre, to land directly in the Passage des Panoramas, which welcomes us at 11 Boulevard Montmartre and bids us farewell at 38 rue Vivienne, in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris.
Although this passage, built in 1799, remains the oldest in the capital and the first to benefit from gas lighting in 1817, it also turns out to be one of the most legendary and singular passages ever built in its time.
Singular first because of its name, which it owes to the two large towers (or rotundas) built on either side of its bowels, in which vast panoramic paintings were presented, THE new attraction of the time, imported from London, attracting crowds of curious onlookers. In fact, this novelty is largely the reason why the passage was opened: it was primarily about sheltering the myriad of onlookers who came to contemplate these intriguing panoramas from the rain and mud. But the frenzy and curiosity sparked by these two rotundas would soon give way to a certain weariness among the Parisian public, which led to the death of these imposing structures in 1831.
But no need to be alarmed; the passage itself would not fade into oblivion. On the contrary, it has continued to shimmer and blaze to this day thanks to the light of its many atypical signs, including those of its fabulous and unsuspected stamp and antique postcard shops, making this place THE go-to spot for all the philatelists of Paris.
It is also a highly frequented and coveted place due to the presence of the Théâtre des Variétés, which was added to the passage in 1807 and ensures that the passage is never empty.
So, when you have a very popular passage, you have particularly extended hours: you can stroll for free in this "stamp-crazy" spot all year round without interruption, from 6:00 AM until midnight.
4, The Galerie Colbert (or the most cultural gallery)
Let’s exit the Passage des Panoramas via rue Vivienne (still in the 2nd arrondissement) and walk a few meters to reach number 4 of the same street, where the Galerie Colbert (built in 1823) is located. It must be admitted, it is not the first gallery that strollers rush to!
Its lack of shops is certainly the cause of its modest fame compared to its big sister nearby, the Galerie Vivienne; nevertheless, it is truly worth a look, if only to contemplate its magnificent rotunda topped by a breathtaking glass dome and its rows of marble columns in a quite exceptional style, in keeping with its essential characteristic: its cultural side.
Indeed, while each passage has its own particularity as we have seen so far, the Galerie Colbert (owned by the National Library of France) aims to be the most cultural, as evidenced by the institutions it houses: the National Institute of Art History (INHA) and the National Heritage Institute (INP).
It is the most cultural and certainly the most photogenic because, unlike its colleagues, it has the privilege of regularly appearing on the big screen, thanks in particular to the famous brasserie "Le Grand Colbert," with its Art Nouveau decor and status as a listed historical monument, located at its entrance and often used for filmmaking.
So don’t hesitate any longer; dare to take a detour through this gallery, which, what's more, will welcome you every day, without interruption.
5, The Galerie Vivienne (or the most luxurious gallery)
A stone’s throw from the Galerie Colbert, or rather two numbers away, let’s find the Galerie Vivienne, which awaits us at 6 rue Vivienne, also in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris.
Arriving at this immense gallery dating from 1823, its chiseled wrought-iron entrance, guarded by two imposing female sculptures with finely modeled drapery, sets the tone: luxury and refinement are promised!
And the bet is won as soon as you cross the entrance, where, bathed in an incredible luminosity provided by the gigantic glass roof with its repeated arches, you can tread the small tiles of a sumptuous mosaic floor with ocher, red, and purple patterns, the work of the famous Italian Giandomenico Facchina.
A luxury that also shines on the walls through objects symbolizing success (laurel wreaths), wealth (cornucopias), and commerce (Mercury’s caduceus).
A delicate and meticulous decoration that has led many high-end boutiques and brands to set up shop there, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Wolff & Descourtis, or Yuki Tori. Kenzo is even said to have organized his very first fashion show there in 1970 on the sly…
And for a little fun fact, do you see this monumental staircase hidden at number 13 of the gallery? Its many steps actually lead to the former home of Vidocq, a famous French convict who became a police chief and the founder of the world’s first private detective agency! And according to legend, there is an underground passage connecting the Galerie Vivienne to the gardens of the Palais Royal, allowing this daring character to make a getaway in case of danger…
Only history could have witnessed it… For now, only the vestiges of this opulent and pompous gallery remain, where you can come shopping every day from 8:30 AM to 8:30 PM, provided you have a well-filled wallet!
A final word
And so, on this note of elegance, this brief overview of my 5 favorite covered passages in Paris comes to an end. But know that the capital hides a few others that are also worth the detour. Here is a more exhaustive list of them if you ever feel the urge to complete your tour of the passages and galleries of Paris:
- Galerie Véro-Dodat (19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Paris, 75001)
- Passage du Grand-Cerf (145 rue Saint-Denis, Paris, 75002)
- Passage Choiseul (40 rue des Petits Champs, Paris, 75002)
- Passage du Caire (2 place du Caire, Paris, 75002)
- Passage des Princes (5 boulevard des Italiens, Paris, 75002)
- Galerie de la Madeleine (9 place de la Madeleine, Paris, 75008)
- Passage du Havre (109 rue Saint-Lazare, Paris, 75009)
- Passage Brady (46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, Paris, 75010)
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