Visiting MAR: art in Ravenna, beyond the mosaics
After the golden glare of the basilicas, your eyes might look for a change of pace. The MAR (Museo d'Arte della città di Ravenna) provides exactly that, offering an unexpected artistic counterpoint housed within a grand monumental complex. This is where the story of Ravennate art continues, long after the fall of the Byzantine Empire.
A visit to round out your Ravenna experience?
This museum is a rewarding stop for those who want to see that creativity in Ravenna did not vanish with the last mosaicists of the 6th century. It is perfect for curious travelers who, after being captivated by early Christian art, want to explore the other facets of the region's artistic sensibility, from the Middle Ages to the most recent experiments. This visit adds depth to any stay in the city.
A historic setting: the Loggetta Lombardesca
Even before you reach the collections, the building itself demands attention. The museum is housed in the former monastery of the canons of Santa Maria in Porto, a vast 16th-century complex.
The architectural highlight is the magnificent Loggetta Lombardesca, an elegant arched courtyard, and the grand cloister, which provides a sense of calm and space. Wandering through these corridors feels like a journey through time before you even step into the first gallery.
An artistic journey from the 14th century to today
MAR offers a chronological path that spans several centuries of creation. The permanent collection, or Pinacoteca, provides a varied panorama of Italian art.
The historical collection
This section brings together works from the 14th to the 18th century, with a majority of artists from the area or those who worked in Romagna. You will find altarpieces, sculptures, and paintings that illustrate the evolution of styles, from the late Gothic period to the Baroque era. Do not miss the moving marble sculpture by Tullio Lombardo, the Funerary Monument of Guidarello Guidarelli, where the face of the sleeping knight is rendered with striking realism.
The modern and contemporary collection
The museum then moves into the 19th and 20th centuries, with paintings and sculptures showing Ravenna's entry into the modern age. However, the true strength of the museum, and what makes it unique, is its collection dedicated to contemporary mosaic. You can see how modern and current artists have reclaimed this ancient technique to create abstract, conceptual, or figurative works of incredible creativity.
Pro tip: MAR is particularly well-known for the quality and scope of its temporary exhibitions. Always check the schedule before your visit. It is not uncommon for a major retrospective or an international thematic exhibition to take center stage, and it could easily become the highlight of your trip.
When mosaic becomes contemporary again
Ravenna is not just a city-museum frozen in its Byzantine past. MAR proves this with flair. The section dedicated to 20th-century and modern mosaic is fascinating. It demonstrates that this art form is not dead, but continues to live and transform.
The city art museum is housed in a pretty sumptuous old building. The artwork is really highlighted by this superb setting. You can admire rich collections there, featuring both ancient works and more contemporary pieces from Klimt or even Banksy. The museum is quite vast. I recommend spending at least two hours there to see everything.