Rangárþing eystra, the municipality that grounded the flights
In April 2010, an unpronounceable Icelandic name took over television news broadcasts across the globe. The Eyjafjallajökull volcano, located within this rural municipality in Suðurland, brought European air traffic to a halt for days. Since then, the region has lived somewhat in the shadow of that label, but it offers far more than a mouthful of a name and an ash cloud.
Here, family farms compete for space with waterfalls plunging out of nowhere, black sand beaches battered by the Atlantic, and glaciers rumbling in silence. This is raw, unfiltered rural Iceland.
A destination built for you?
If you dream of driving down empty roads while passing more sheep than cars, with photo stops every six miles, this destination will suit you well. It is also an ideal playground for hikers and volcanic geology enthusiasts.
On the flip side, if you are looking for nightlife, fine dining, or an urban atmosphere, you will not find any of that here. The main hub, Hvolsvöllur, has a population of under 1000 and consists of just a few streets.
Good fit for:
- Road trip fans and volcanic nature lovers
- Waterfall and hiking enthusiasts
- Travelers with a rental car exploring Route 1 (the Ring Road)
Bad fit for:
- Travelers without a vehicle (very limited public transit)
- Those seeking city life or nightlife
- Tight budgets (Iceland remains expensive everywhere)
Watch out for steep costs
Like everywhere in Iceland, expenses add up fast. This municipality is no exception, even though prices are generally lower than in Reykjavík.
| Expense | Range |
|---|---|
| Campsite night | 15 to 25 € |
| Guesthouse or small hotel night | 100 to 180 € |
| Quick bite | 12 to 18 € |
| Restaurant meal | 25 to 40 € |
| Car rental per day | 50 to 90 € |
Estimated rates subject to change
Practical realities
Icelandic weather is fickle and this region is no exception, rain, wind, and fog can all roll through within the span of a single day. Pack warm and waterproof layers even in the summer.
Road conditions are solid on Route 1, but certain tracks leading to waterfalls or the interior require a 4x4 vehicle, especially after rainfall. Cell service remains decent along the main highway.
Eyjafjallajökull and its surroundings
The glacier that put the region on the map is best viewed from a distance, but an exhibition center in Þorvaldseyri, the farm closest to the volcano, recounts the 2010 eruption through a film and accounts from local farmers.
Friendly tip: Stop by the Þorvaldseyri farm even if you are in a rush. The 20-minute film shown in their center is well worth the detour to understand what residents lived through during the eruption.
Iconic waterfalls
Seljalandsfoss
This 60-meter waterfall is likely the most photographed in Iceland, and for good reason: a trail lets you walk behind the curtain of water. Pack a waterproof layer because you will come out soaked, but the experience makes the minor discomfort worth it.
Skógafoss
A bit further down Route 1, this waterfall impresses with its width and 25-meter wall of water. A staircase climbs to the top for a plunging view of the coastal plain.
Black sand beaches
The southern coast features expanses of volcanic sand beaten by powerful waves. Exercise caution because these beaches are known for sneaker waves that can sweep an inattentive walker out to sea in seconds.
Other activity suggestions
- Hiking the trails of the Þórsmörk reserve, accessible only by 4x4 or specialized bus
- Observing volcanic rock formations along the coast
- Visiting the Icelandic Folk Museum in Skógar, packed with traditional artifacts
Where to eat and drink in Rangárþing eystra?
Local dining centers around farm-fresh products: Icelandic lamb, dairy goods, and occasionally fish caught off the nearby coast. Several farms now offer direct sales or small cafés attached to their operations.
In Hvolsvöllur, restaurant options are modest but sufficient for a decent meal after a day on the road.
Where to sleep in Rangárþing eystra and the surrounding area?
Accommodations range from family-run guesthouses and converted farm cottages to a few campgrounds open during the summer season. Many travelers choose to stay near Hvolsvöllur as a base for exploring the waterfalls and glacier.
How to get to Rangárþing eystra?
The closest international airport is Keflavík, about a two-hour drive away. Departing from North America, you will generally take an overnight flight connecting through a European hub. Once you arrive, a car rental is the easiest way to reach the region.
How to get around Rangárþing eystra?
Without a car, options are very limited: a few tour buses serve the main sights in the summer, but schedules run infrequently. A car, ideally a 4x4, remains essential to explore the region freely and access secondary tracks.
When to go to Rangárþing eystra?
The period from June to August offers the best conditions: long daylight hours, clear roads, and easier access to mountain tracks. Autumn and spring appeal to travelers looking for smaller crowds, but the weather turns more unpredictable. Winter makes driving on secondary roads much more complicated.
