Porquerolles, the car-free island where time slows down
Back in 1912, Belgian explorer François Joseph Fournier gave an entire island to his wife Sylvia as a wedding present. He planted vineyards, built roads, and shaped a sanctuary. More than a century later, this island measuring 7 kilometers long by 3 wide remains remarkably unchanged: a place without cars where you get around by bike beneath umbrella pines, and where the beaches easily rival the Caribbean.
An island for nature lovers and simple living
This destination suits couples looking for romance, families with kids who love swimming and walking, and active travelers who want to pedal or hike. Fine sand beaches with turquoise water, absolute quiet after the last ferry leaves, and the ability to do everything by bike create a rare experience on the French Riviera.
On the other hand, if you want lively nightlife, luxury shopping, or an extensive cultural scene, stay on the mainland. The island has just one village, a handful of restaurants, and a few hotels. Partygoers and shopaholics will get bored quickly. Travelers with limited mobility should also note that the paths are often dirt and sometimes steep.
A budget that adds up fast
Island life comes with a price tag. Expect $26* for a round-trip ferry ticket, $34 to $51* to rent a bike for the day, and $17 to $34* per person for a meal. Lodging ranges from $135 to $450* a night depending on the season, with limited availability.
The beaches: the heart of the experience
Plage Notre-Dame was voted the most beautiful beach in Europe in 2015, and it earns that reputation. The water is an unreal shade of turquoise, the sand is fine, and the wild setting is lined with eucalyptus trees. Plan on a 30-minute bike ride from the village or a 50-minute walk. There are no facilities on-site, so bring water, a picnic, and a beach umbrella.
More accessible, Argent Beach sits a 20-minute walk from the port. Its name comes from the white quartz sand that sparkles in the sun. It is the only beach with a restaurant and lounge chairs for rent. The downside is that it draws the biggest crowds, so arrive early in the morning.
Friendly tip: to escape the crowds, push on to the white sand of Plage du Langoustier at the western tip of the island. The journey is tougher with a few inclines, but you will find quiet and crystal-clear waters far from the tourist flow.
Exploring the island by bike
Without cars, the bicycle reigns supreme. Rental shops sit right where the ferry drops you off. Opt for an electric mountain bike because the dirt paths and certain sectors involve serious elevation changes, particularly toward Le Langoustier to the west and the lighthouse to the south. Expect $51* for a day on an electric mountain bike compared to $34* for a standard bike.
Four marked loops crisscross the island. The most spectacular one hugs the wild, rugged southern coast with its cliffs plunging into the sea. From the Calanque de l'Indienne, the panorama rewards an early morning ride. The Cap d'Arme lighthouse, built in 1830, stands as the most powerful in the Mediterranean. It is closed to the public, but the views from the surrounding area are striking.
Culture and heritage
Fort Sainte-Agathe has overlooked the village since the 16th century. François I had it built to protect the island from Barbary pirates. The 360-degree view over the Hyères roadstead and neighboring islands makes the short climb worthwhile. A bit further along, the Moulin du Bonheur, restored in 2007 after two centuries of abandonment, adds a picturesque touch to the landscape.
The Fondation Carmignac comes as a surprise on this preserved island. This contemporary art museum, open since 2018, displays works by Botticelli, Warhol, and Basquiat in a green setting. The unique twist is that visitors tour barefoot. Book ahead because admission is limited to 50 people at a time. The 2024 exhibition was titled "The Infinite Woman".
Friendly tip: the island's vineyards produce remarkable Côtes de Provence rosés and whites. Domaine de la Courtade offers tastings. The Chanel fashion house acquired Domaine de l'Île and has been producing organic vintages there since 2015.
Where to eat and drink in Porquerolles
The culinary scene is modest but high quality. In the village, Le Pélagos serves fresh fish and cocktails facing the lively square. L'Escale offers tapas and sunset appetizers with a view of the port. For a traditional bouillabaisse, head to L'Orangeraie tucked away in a quiet alley.
On Plage d'Argent, the eponymous restaurant lets you lunch with your feet nearly in the water. For a fine dining experience, Le Poisson Ivre at the Fondation Carmignac serves refined cuisine in an exceptional setting. Remember to book during peak season since tables are scarce and fill up fast.
How to get to and around Porquerolles
Shuttles run year-round from La Tour Fondue on the Giens Peninsula in Hyères. The crossing takes 15 minutes. In peak season, expect a departure every 30 minutes. Price: about $26* round-trip. From April to September, connections also run from Toulon, La Londe-les-Maures, and Les Sablettes.
By car, parking lots near the ferry dock cost $12 to $21* a day. Arrive before 9 AM in the summer since they fill up quickly. From the Toulon-Hyères airport, count 30 minutes by taxi to La Tour Fondue. From Marseille, it is a 1.5-hour drive. From Nice, roughly 2 hours.
When to go?
The island enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year. The months of May-June and September-October strike the best balance between pleasant weather and manageable crowds. Avoid July and August entirely; back in 2020, the island ran out of water after an influx of 10,000 visitors over Bastille Day weekend. Winter allows for quiet walks, but the water remains too chilly for swimming.
Looking for a spot (a little less touristy) in the South? Look no further! Porquerolles is a car-free place that you can visit on foot or by bike. It is a very quiet spot that is perfect for a stress-free family visit. I really enjoyed renting a bike and discovering the beauty of nature.
On the other hand, I really recommend that you bring your own food and drinks. The restaurant owners on the island have clearly realized there is money to be made. Don't let that ruin your day.