Porquerolles, the car-free island where time slows down
In 1912, the Belgian explorer François Joseph Fournier surprised his wife Sylvia with a wedding gift: an entire island. He planted vineyards, mapped out roads, and cultivated a private sanctuary. A century later, this island, measuring 7 kilometers long by 3 wide, remains exactly that: a place where cars do not exist, where you navigate between umbrella pines by bike, and where the beaches rival those of the Caribbean.
An island for nature and simplicity
This destination is a natural fit for couples looking for romance, families with children who enjoy swimming and walking, and athletes eager to bike or hike. The fine sand beaches with turquoise water, the absolute quiet once the last ferry departs, and the ability to reach every corner by bike create a rare experience on the French Riviera.
However, if you are looking for a high-energy nightlife, luxury shopping, or a packed cultural calendar, stay on the mainland. The island has one village, a handful of restaurants, and a few hotels. Party-goers and shopaholics will likely feel restless. Travelers with limited mobility should also be aware that the paths are often unpaved and can be steep.
A budget that adds up
Island life comes at a premium. Expect to pay 23€ ($25) for a round-trip ferry ticket, 30€ to 45€ ($33, $49) for a daily bike rental, and 15€ to 30€ ($16, $33) per person for a casual meal. Accommodations range from 120€ to 400€ ($130, $435) per night depending on the season, with limited availability.
The beaches: the heart of the experience
Plage Notre-Dame was voted the best beach in Europe in 2015, and it earns that reputation. The water is an surreal turquoise, the sand is fine, and the setting is wild, framed by eucalyptus trees. It takes about 30 minutes by bike or 50 minutes on foot from the village. There are no facilities on-site, so bring your own water, lunch, and shade.
More accessible, the plage d'Argent is a 20-minute walk from the port. Its name comes from the white quartz sand that shimmers in the sun. This is the only beach with an on-site restaurant and lounge chair rentals. The trade-off is that it draws the largest crowds. Arrive early in the morning.
Pro tip: to escape the crowds, head to the plage blanche du Langoustier at the far western tip of the island. The trek is more demanding with several climbs, but you will find peace and crystalline waters far from the tourist flow.
Exploring by bike
Without cars, the bike is king. Rental shops are located right where the ferry drops you off. Opt for an electric mountain bike, as the paths are often dirt and some areas have serious elevation changes, especially toward the Langoustier in the west and the lighthouse in the south. Expect to pay 45€ ($49) per day for an electric mountain bike versus 30€ ($33) for a standard bicycle.
Four marked trails crisscross the island. The most spectacular follows the southern coast, a wild and jagged landscape with cliffs that plunge into the sea. From the calanque de l'Indienne, the panorama is worth a morning visit. The phare du Cap d'Arme, built in 1830, is the most powerful lighthouse in the Mediterranean. It is closed to the public, but the view from its perimeter is striking.
Culture and heritage
The Fort Sainte-Agathe has overlooked the village since the 16th century. King Francis I commissioned it to protect the island from Barbary pirates. The 360-degree view over the Hyères harbor and the surrounding islands is the reward for the short climb. A bit further on, the Moulin du Bonheur, restored in 2007 after two centuries of abandonment, adds a picturesque touch to the landscape.
The Fondation Carmignac is an unexpected find on this preserved island. This contemporary art museum, opened in 2018, presents works by Botticelli, Warhol, and Basquiat in a lush, green setting. A unique quirk: you must visit barefoot. Book in advance, as access is limited to 50 people at a time. The 2025 exhibition is titled "The Infinite Woman."
Pro tip: the island's vineyards produce remarkable Côtes de Provence rosés and whites. The Domaine de la Courtade offers tastings. The Chanel fashion house acquired the Domaine de l'Île and has been producing organic vintages there since 2015.
Where to eat and drink in Porquerolles?
The culinary scene is modest but high-quality. In the village, Le Pélagos serves fresh fish and cocktails facing the lively square. L'Escale offers tapas and appetizers at sunset with a view of the harbor. For a traditional bouillabaisse, head to L'Orangeraie, tucked away in a quiet alley.
On the plage d'Argent, the restaurant éponyme allows you to dine with your feet practically in the water. For a fine-dining experience, Le Poisson Ivre at the Fondation Carmignac offers refined cuisine in an exceptional setting. Remember to book during high season, as tables are limited and in high demand.
Where to stay in Porquerolles and the surrounding area?
The hotel selection on the island is limited but charming. L'Oustaou De Porquerolles offers a modern setting and welcoming staff in the heart of the village. The Villa Sainte Anne provides rooms with harbor views and allows guests to keep access to showers after check-out, which is convenient for a final swim.
For an upscale experience, the Mas du Langoustier is tucked away at the western end of the island, isolated and luxurious. On the mainland, the Giens peninsula offers campgrounds and hotels at more moderate prices, with the ferry just a few minutes away.
How to get to and around Porquerolles?
Shuttles depart year-round from La Tour Fondue on the Giens peninsula, in Hyères. The crossing takes 15 minutes. In high season, expect a departure every 30 minutes. Price: about 23€ ($25) round-trip. From April to September, connections are also available from Toulon, La Londe-les-Maures, and Les Sablettes.
If you are driving, parking lots near the ferry terminal cost 10€ to 18€ ($11, $20) per day. Arrive before 9 a.m. in the summer, as they fill up quickly. From the Toulon-Hyères airport, it is a 30-minute taxi ride to La Tour Fondue. From Marseille, it is a 1.5-hour drive. From Nice, it takes about 2 hours.
When to go?
The island enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year. The months of May-June and September-October offer the best balance between pleasant weather and manageable crowds. Avoid July and August entirely. In 2020, the island faced water shortages after an influx of 10,000 visitors over the July 14 weekend. Winter allows for quiet walks, but the water remains chilly for swimming.
Looking for a spot (a little less touristy) in the South? Look no further! Porquerolles is a car-free place that you can visit on foot or by bike. It is a very quiet spot that is perfect for a stress-free family visit. I really enjoyed renting a bike and discovering the beauty of nature.
On the other hand, I really recommend that you bring your own food and drinks. The restaurant owners on the island have clearly realized there is money to be made. Don't let that ruin your day.