Arusha, where safaris begin and coffee grows beneath the volcanoes
The scent hits you before anything else. Roasted Arabica beans, red dust, and meat sizzling on roadside grills. At the base of Mount Meru, the city is loud and chaotic, crisscrossed by multicolored dala dalas. This is the jumping-off point for the major northern safaris in Tanzania.
A stopover that warrants more time
Most travelers spend one night here before rushing off to the Serengeti or Ngorongoro. We think that is a mistake. The city provides access to a national park just thirty minutes away, along with coffee plantations and Maasai villages.
Ideal for:
- Safari enthusiasts, with Africa's largest parks just a few hours away
- Hikers who want to summit Mount Meru without the crowds found on Kilimanjaro
- Travelers looking for cultural interactions with the Maasai
- Coffee lovers, with plantations surrounding the city
Not for:
- Those seeking a charming town: it is functional, not picturesque
- Travelers on a strict budget: safaris are expensive, even in economy packages
- Travelers who dislike negotiating: touts are everywhere
A two-tier budget
Daily life is inexpensive, as street food costs less than 8,000 TZS (about $3). However, safaris drive up the cost, typically ranging from 390,000 to 650,000 TZS (about $150 to $250) per person per day for group tours. The currency is the Tanzanian shilling. Carry cash for the markets.
| Expense | Estimated Range |
|---|---|
| Night in a guesthouse or hostel | 40,000 to 105,000 TZS ($15 to $40) |
| Night in a comfortable lodge | 130,000 to 390,000 TZS ($50 to $150) |
| Street food or market meal | 5,000 to 13,000 TZS ($2 to $5) |
| Restaurant meal | 21,000 to 52,000 TZS ($8 to $20) |
| Daily backpacker budget | 78,000 to 130,000 TZS ($30 to $50) |
| Daily comfortable budget | 210,000 to 520,000 TZS ($80 to $200) |
Practical info: what to expect?
The climate is mild year-round due to the altitude, typically between 59 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. English is widely spoken. A few words of Swahili will go a long way: jambo for hello, asante for thank you. US citizens must obtain an e-visa before travel, which costs approximately $50.
Is it safe to travel to Arusha?
The city is safe with standard precautions: be vigilant in crowded markets and avoid walking alone at night. Scams primarily come from touts offering cut-rate safari deals.
Arusha National Park and Mount Meru
Arusha National Park, the smallest in the country, features the Ngurdoto Crater, the Momella Lakes tinted pink by flamingos, and the slopes of Mount Meru. You can spot giraffes, buffalo, and colobus monkeys at close range.
The climb up Mount Meru, at 14,980 feet, takes three to four days with an armed ranger. It is a viable alternative to Kilimanjaro, as it is less crowded and less expensive.
Pro tip: A canoe safari on the Momella Lakes is the most unique activity in the park. Paddling between pink flamingos and hippos is well worth the $45 to $50 entrance fee.
The city center: markets, crafts, and tanzanite
The Central Market and Kilombero Market are the pulse of the city. Fruits, spices, and kanga fabrics are traded in a joyful chaos. In the morning, sambusas, triangular pastries stuffed with spiced vegetables, sell for a few cents.
The Cultural Heritage Centre houses galleries and crafts from 120 Tanzanian tribes. It is the most reliable place to buy tanzanite, a blue-violet stone unique to this region. The Arusha Clock Tower, a symbolic midpoint between Cairo and Cape Town, is a quick photo op.
Pro tip: For artisanal shopping, prioritize Shanga, a social enterprise in the gardens of the Arusha Coffee Lodge. Artisans with disabilities create jewelry there from recycled glass.
Excursions: villages, plantations, and major parks
The village of Mto Wa Mbu, an hour away, highlights Tanzanian ethnic diversity. Banana plantations, craft workshops, and shared meals with locals make for a meaningful day trip.
The coffee plantations around the city offer tours from bean to cup. The three major northern parks, Serengeti, Ngorongoro, and Tarangire, are accessible via two to seven-day packages.
Pro tip: Never book a safari through a street tout. Compare offers on SafariBookings.com, read reviews, and choose operators that employ certified local guides.
Where to eat and drink in Arusha?
Local cuisine centers on nyama choma, grilled goat meat served with chapati. Mandazi, sweet donuts, pair well with Tanzanian coffee. The Themi Living Garden serves local food in a green setting, and the Onsea House, run by a Belgian chef, has been voted the best restaurant in the country.
Where to stay in and around Arusha?
The Outpost Lodge offers good value with its pool and quiet atmosphere. The Arusha Coffee Lodge, located in the middle of a historic plantation, provides an exceptional setting. Guesthouses are an economical alternative for a more direct connection with locals.
How to get to Arusha?
Kilimanjaro International Airport, located 28 miles away, is the primary arrival point. From the US, expect long-haul flights with connections via hubs like Amsterdam or Addis Ababa. Transfers to the city center cost $55 to $80.
How to get around Arusha?
The center is walkable. Dala dalas serve the city for 500 TZS per trip, about 15 cents. These decorated and crowded minibuses are part of the local experience.
Taxis can be negotiated for roughly $3 to $10. Bolt and inDrive operate in the city. Routes to the parks require a 4x4 with a driver.
When to go?
The best times are during the dry season from June to October and the short dry season in January and February. The rainy season from March to May makes some roads impassable, though it offers reduced prices and empty parks.
Arusha will surely be your first impression of the great parks region.
My opinion is mixed, as you find the downsides of big cities here along with a fair share of economic disparity.
But the city remains pleasant and will give you a taste of Africa with its colorful market and warm locals.