4 Days in Ascona: Where the Lake Meets the Mountains

This trip to Switzerland was easily one of the most surprising experiences of my life.

I was expecting a postcard-perfect country, and I certainly got that and more. It turns out Switzerland is incredibly lush, and the landscapes are breathtaking. The Swiss are meticulous people who take great pride in maintaining their homes, gardens, and surroundings with wonderful attention to detail.

The magnificent drive through the Alps

I was headed to stay with friends who have lived in Ascona for many years. I was thrilled to be staying with locals rather than in a hotel, even though my friends are expats.

Ascona is located in the canton of Ticino, right on the shores of Lake Maggiore and not far from the Italian border. In fact, the locals in this region speak Italian. To get there by car from France, you have to cross a good portion of Switzerland from west to east, and it’s a journey I’ll remember for a long time.

When I crossed the Swiss border, I first had to buy a general toll sticker, which allows you to use all the highways in the country. That was a relief, it makes things so much more convenient. The roads are a total delight. They’re winding, and every turn reveals a new landscape. You can’t drive very fast on mountain roads, but I should note that they are impeccably maintained. I decided to take my time behind the wheel, and I have to say I didn't run into much traffic along the way. Even so, the day was far from over.

Arrival in Ascona

I arrived at my friends' place in the late afternoon. As I mentioned, they live in the town of Ascona. This town is famous for its exceptional light, which attracts many painters. I wasn't disappointed, it’s truly magnificent. I planned to visit the town’s 16th-century Basilica as soon as possible, walk around Lake Maggiore, and explore the historic center. But my main goal was to spend time with a local family. My friends have a young child, and the mother works, which I was told isn't necessarily the norm around here.

My friends were waiting for me in their cozy home, a villa they had built to their own tastes while respecting local architecture. It isn't entirely new, though, as it incorporates a very old structure. As someone who loves architectural tourism, I was guided by my friends through an introduction to the traditional Swiss way of life. I was fascinated by an extraordinary, highly elaborate heating system that is perfectly adapted to the sometimes harsh climate of this region nestled at the foot of the Alps.

While Switzerland offers sumptuous scenery, the cold seasons don't always allow for long evenings outdoors. No matter, my friends installed a winter terrace in their garden. With an outdoor fireplace, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery and the magnificent sky late into the year.

Things to see and do nearby

Day 1 - The Old Town

The day after I arrived, we planned a sightseeing circuit.

First on the list was the historic Borgo center, a charming old quarter clustered around the Church of San Pietro e Paolo. There is also a fairly well-known fine arts museum in the old town.

To introduce me to local gastronomy, my friends booked a table for dinner at a renowned restaurant in the city center near the lake, the Antico Ristorante Borromeo. I was glad I was hungry because Ticino cuisine is very "hearty": risotto, cheeses, braised beef, ravioli, gratins... It’s a great spot that I highly recommend; the food is delicious, the service is welcoming, and the setting is beautiful. Just be prepared to spend around €20 for the simpler dishes (like spaghetti al pomodoro).

Day 2 - The Maggia Valley

On the second day, I decided to visit the Maggia Valley, a few kilometers north of Ascona. It offers beautiful landscapes and hiking trails along mountain streams and rivers that eventually flow into Lake Maggiore. The area is sparsely populated, and the flora and fauna are very rich. It’s all ups and downs, and the paths can be a bit rugged. I was exhausted when I went to bed that night :)

Day 3 - Centovalli and its little train

The third day followed a similar theme, but this time we explored the "Hundred Valleys," known as Centovalli. This time, there was much less driving or walking: we took a small train from the neighboring town of Locarno that takes you across the entire valley, running alongside the Melezza river. After the tough day before, it was lovely to just let the train carry us and keep our eyes open to take it all in. Some of the stretches over the void on narrow bridges are spectacular.

Day 4 - Saint Pancrace and Ronco sopra Ascona

Finally, on the last day, we took a boat from the Ascona pier to visit the Brissago Islands on Lake Maggiore. The crossing is quick, as it’s only a few kilometers away. We were only able to visit the larger of the two islands, Saint Pancrace, because the second one isn't accessible to the public. Unlike the alpine valleys where you really need a full day to enjoy them, we made a quick tour of the island. Its botanical garden is interesting, featuring many exotic plants from tropical regions.

With the time we had left, we spent the end of the day in Ronco sopra Ascona, a small village located above Lake Maggiore, just a few minutes away by car. It was an excellent idea, as the village is built on a hill overlooking the lake. Climb up to the viewpoint near the San Martino Church, the view of the lake and the surrounding mountains is splendid!