Visiting Matera, a fascinating cave city
If you are looking for an offbeat destination in Southern Italy, Matera demands your attention. Perched on the edge of a canyon, this ancient city feels like a portal to another era, defined by steep, winding alleys and homes carved directly into the limestone cliffs.
The Sassi: A World Heritage site
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993, the Sassi are the soul of Matera. These cave dwellings, some inhabited since the Neolithic era, form a unique labyrinth of narrow passages, precipitous staircases, and small plazas. Walking through the Sassi feels surreal, offering dramatic views of the ravine below that could rival the rugged vistas of the American Southwest.
The cathedral and rock churches
Dominating the skyline, the cathedral of Matera (Duomo), built in the 13th century, is a prime example of Romanesque architecture. Inside, the frescoes and the massive wooden ceiling are worth a close look. Nearby, you will find several rock-hewn churches adorned with medieval frescoes, such as Santa Maria de Idris or San Pietro Barisano, which serve as moving reminders of the region's religious history.
Museums to understand local history
To go deeper, the Museo Nazionale d'Arte Medievale e Moderna at Palazzo Lanfranchi houses a notable art collection, while the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario offers a glimpse into the daily life of residents in the Sassi before their relocation. These museums provide essential context for the social and cultural evolution of Matera.
The surroundings of Matera
Just a few miles away, the Parco della Murgia Materana features wild landscapes dotted with natural caves and ancient rock churches. The hiking trails here provide the perfect vantage point to photograph Matera from across the gorge, making it a favorite for nature lovers.
Rustic cuisine with intense flavors
Matera is known for its authentic gastronomy. Be sure to try pane di Matera, a sourdough bread famous for its thick, crunchy crust and airy center. Traditional dishes like orecchiette with wild greens or aged caciocavallo cheese are staples, best paired with a glass of local vino primitivo, which is bold and aromatic.
Where to eat?
- Ristorante Soul Kitchen (Sasso Barisano): A modern spot where culinary tradition is updated with finesse.
- Trattoria del Caveoso (Sasso Caveoso): Authentic atmosphere and local specialties served in a cave setting.
- Osteria al Casale (Historic center): Simple, hearty cooking, perfect for a straightforward introduction to regional flavors.
Where to stay?
- La Dimora di Metello (Sasso Barisano): A chic hotel with panoramic views over the Sassi.
- Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita (Sasso Caveoso): Luxurious cave suites that offer a singular experience.
- Palazzo Gattini Luxury Hotel (Historic center): An elegant hotel housed in a restored former palace.
When to go?
The best times to visit Matera are spring and autumn, when temperatures are mild and the light is ideal for exploring the Sassi. In July, the festival of the Madonna della Bruna brings the city to life with spectacular processions.
How to get there?
Matera is reachable by train from Bari in about 1 hour and 30 minutes, with tickets costing roughly 5 to 7 EUR (about $5-8). From Rome, it is most practical to fly into Bari and then take a train or rental car from there.
Getting around
The historic center is best explored on foot, but to visit the surrounding areas, renting a car remains the most practical solution.
I went to Matera on the way back from a road trip in Puglia, Italy. You can easily spend a day there. It is a genuine pleasure to observe the locals in their daily life. Take the time to enjoy a coffee on a terrace in the sun, then get lost in the labyrinthine alleys. Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its cave dwellings carved into the limestone rock, called sassi. You can visit rock churches, museums set up in old cave houses, and the Murgia viewpoint.