Things to do in Toulon: top 5 must-see attractions

Toulon, a military port turned Mediterranean terrace

Twenty years ago, the neighborhood bordering the naval arsenal had a nickname: Chicago. Sailor bars lined the narrow alleys, and workers of the night waited for sailors on shore leave.

Today, those same facades sport pastel Mediterranean tones and house concept stores, art galleries, and cocktail bars. This transformation defines the city. Long ignored by tourists racing toward Nice or Saint-Tropez, it is reinventing itself without losing its gritty, working-class maritime soul.

Toulon: the Riviera without the glitz

If you are looking for the glamour of the Côte d'Azur, keep driving. You will not find billionaire yachts or Gucci boutiques here. Instead, fans of rugby, naval history, and authentic Provençal life will be right at home. The RC Toulon ignites passion at stade Mayol, the markets smell of lavender and olives, and the beaches are walkable from the city center.

Note that the architecture still bears the scars of the 1944 bombings. Some areas lack curb appeal, and the city's industrial reputation lingers. For those who want to explore the Var region without breaking the bank and avoid the summer crowds of Saint-Tropez, it is an ideal home base.

An affordable slice of Provence

Expect to spend 70 to 120 euros ($75, $130) per day for two people, significantly less than elsewhere on the French Riviera. Accommodations start at 60 euros ($65) per night, a meal at the covered market costs 12 to 15 euros ($13, $16), and most museums have modest entry fees. The Mont Faron cable car costs 8 euros ($9) round-trip.

The old town and the harbor

The cours Lafayette hosts a Provençal market every morning that is a point of pride for locals. Olives, herbes de Provence, goat cheeses, and sun-ripened fruits fill the stalls with color and scent. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the market expands to the place Louis-Blanc.

Behind the port, the old town reveals a maze of medieval alleys punctuated by shaded squares. place Puget houses a unique fountain, the fontaine des Trois Dauphins, half-covered in moss and vegetation after two centuries. The cathédrale Notre-Dame de la Seds, founded in the 11th century, hides a surprising detail: Francis I had it converted into a mosque in 1543 to accommodate Ottoman corsairs allied with France.

Friendly tip: Do not miss the cade kiosk across from the Mourillon market. This chickpea flour and olive oil flatbread, baked over a wood fire, is best enjoyed hot with an aperitif. It is the local specialty.

The Arts district and the Halles

rue des Arts embodies the city's renewal. Where vacant storefronts once stood, local creators have opened boutiques, workshops, and galleries. The Design Parade festival, held every summer at Villa Noailles, helped turn this area into a recognized creative hub. The Camondo school has even opened a branch here.

Just steps away, the Halles municipales Esther Poggio have reopened after twenty years of renovation. This 1929 Art Deco building now houses 21 producer and artisan stalls. You can sample oysters from the harbor, wood-fired pizzas, or Mediterranean specialties. The Café Toulonnais on the roof offers a panoramic view perfect for a sunset drink.

place de l'Équerre, with its lively terraces, has become the go-to spot for nightlife. Petit Chicago, a musical bar with a speakeasy vibe, pays homage to the neighborhood's wild past with jazz and blues nights.

Le Mourillon and the beaches

This neighborhood east of the city center functions like a village within a city. The marché du Mourillon energizes the mornings, rue Lamalgue is lined with high-quality cheese shops and butchers, and the atmosphere remains decidedly local despite the summer influx. This is where locals who can afford a sea view choose to live.

The plages du Mourillon stretch across seven hectares of sand, bordered by landscaped gardens and playgrounds. Four successive coves offer calm, shallow waters, making them perfect for families. Bars and restaurants line the Frédéric Mistral promenade. Further east, the wild coves of Méjean and Magaud, accessible via the sentier des Douaniers, reward hikers with turquoise water at the foot of the cliffs.

Friendly tip: In the summer, games of pétanque break out on the Mourillon beaches in the evening. Locals will gladly invite you to play, a glass of pastis in hand. Expect to lose.

Mont Faron and military heritage

The téléphérique du Mont Faron, inaugurated in 1959, remains the city's emblem. The red cable car climbs to 584 meters (1,916 feet) in minutes, offering a spectacular panorama of the harbor, the Hyères islands, and the Maures mountains. At the top, the Mémorial du Débarquement recounts the liberation of Provence in August 1944. A zoo also houses big cats and other wildlife.

Below, the Tour Royale has guarded the harbor entrance since the 16th century. This massive fortification with seven-meter-thick walls can be visited for 2 euros ($2.20). The Musée national de la Marine, housed in the monumental arsenal gate dating from 1738, exhibits ship models, antique maps, and navigation instruments. Entry is 7 euros ($8).

The military port itself remains a curiosity. It is the largest naval base in Europe, and shuttle boats allow you to catch a glimpse of the porte-avions Charles de Gaulle when it is docked.

Excursions around Toulon

A twenty-minute drive away, Sanary-sur-Mer retains its fishing village vibe with colorful traditional boats in the harbor and flowered alleys. Le Castellet, perched on a hill, offers a quintessential Provençal panorama with vineyards below. Bandol produces some of the best red wines in Provence.

The îles d'Hyères, accessible by ferry from the port, are worth a full day. Porquerolles and Port-Cros offer paradise-like beaches and hiking trails in a protected natural setting.

Where to eat and drink in Toulon?

cade remains the iconic specialty, a chickpea flatbread found at the Mourillon kiosk or in traditional bakeries. anchoïade, an anchovy puree to spread on toasted bread, accompanies the Provençal aperitif. huîtres de la rade, raised in local oyster beds, are best enjoyed at the Halles or on the port.

For a meal by the water, Côté Jardin on the Frédéric Mistral coastline offers Mediterranean cuisine in a lush setting. La Fabricca di Marco serves fresh pasta with a trattoria vibe. In Mourillon, the restaurant Le Dolce attracts a loyal local crowd for its fish dishes and sea views.

For a drink, O'Boulodrome on rue Chevalier-Paul combines a wine cellar with indoor pétanque courts. The Street Bar on place de l'Équerre keeps the evening lively with its crowded terrace. Local beer lovers should look for Bière de la Rade, brewed in the Toulon area.

Where to stay in and around Toulon?

The Mourillon neighborhood offers the best balance of beaches, restaurants, and neighborhood atmosphere. Airbnb rentals are plentiful here and allow you to live like a local. Parking is free on the small streets.

In the city center, hôtel Okko near place de la Liberté offers modern rooms and a rooftop bar with a view. Grand Hôtel Dauphiné facing the port combines nautical decor with a bistronomic restaurant. For tighter budgets, the area around the train station has several affordable options.

Outside the city, hôtel Rives d'Or in La Seyne-sur-Mer has a rooftop with a view of the bay. In Six-Fours-les-Plages, the Villa Krilou guesthouse offers four rooms right on the water.

How to get to and around Toulon?

The TGV links Paris to the Toulon station in less than four hours, with no changes. Regular connections serve Lyon, Montpellier, and Marseille. aéroport de Toulon-Hyères, 20 km from the center, handles some domestic and European flights. A shuttle connects to the train station for 1.40 euro ($1.50).

By car from Paris, expect about eight hours via the A7 and A8 highways. The motorway includes tolls until you reach Nice. From Marseille, the trip takes one hour.

Once you arrive, the city center is easily walkable. The bus network serves Mont Faron, Mourillon, and neighboring towns. bateaux-bus (boat-buses) cross the harbor toward La Seyne and Saint-Mandrier for 2 euros ($2.20) one way.

When to go?

May through October offers the best conditions, with over 300 days of sun per year and mild temperatures. July and August remain busy but are more manageable than the rest of the Côte d'Azur. The Design Parade festival enlivens the summer, and the Jazz Festival takes place in July. Winter is mild but windy, and the city returns to its steady local rhythm.