Visiting the Gili Islands
Three small flat islands off the north-west coast of Lombok, in Indonesia, each of which you can walk around in an hour or two. In the Sasak language, gili simply means small island. No motor vehicles run here: you get around on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn cart, along sandy tracks.
Each has its own character. Gili Trawangan, the largest, has its bars, night market and parties. Gili Air mixes village life with calm beaches. Gili Meno, the smallest, offers above all silence. All around, the reefs shelter sea turtles. You come for the beach, snorkelling, diving and the slow pace of islands without engines.
You'll love it if
- You dream of white-sand beaches and snorkelling with turtles
- You like getting around on foot or by bike, with no engine noise
- You want to extend a Bali trip with a few days by the sea
Look elsewhere if
- You cope badly with tropical heat and humidity
- You're after cultural sites or hiking
- You dread fast-boat crossings in rough seas
The must-sees
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1 Swimming with turtles Sea
Around all three islands, green and hawksbill turtles graze the seagrass a few metres from the shore. Take a mask and snorkel, get in at high tide, and let the current carry you along the reef.
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2 The Nest statues Diving
Off Gili Meno, a circle of human statues lies a few metres down, slowly covered in coral. You can see them while snorkelling in clear water. Go early, before the excursion boats.
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3 Sunset over Bali Sunset
On the west coast of Gili Trawangan, swings set in the water face Mount Agung, on Bali. The sun sets behind it. Arrive a little early, by bike, and settle on a beanbag in the sand.
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4 Trawangan night market Food
Every evening, near the Gili Trawangan harbour, stalls grill the catch of the day, satay skewers and corn. You pick your fish from the ice, then sit on benches. It's the cheapest meal on the island.
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5 Gili Meno and its salt lake Island
The smallest and quietest of the three islands. You can walk around it in an hour, between deserted beaches and coconut palms. In the middle, a salt lake attracts birds. In the evening there's hardly a sound.
The classic trap
Booking the last afternoon fast boat back to Bali on the day of your flight. The sea can force boats to cancel, especially in the rainy season. Always allow a spare night in Bali before your international flight.
Our itineraries in the Gili Islands
| Length | Route | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| 3 days | Gili Trawangan, then a day on Gili Meno | The beaches, the turtles, the night market and the Nest |
| 5 days | Gili Air › Gili Meno › Gili Trawangan | All three islands, from quiet to lively |
| 1 week | The Gilis, then Lombok's north coast | The islands, plus Lombok's waterfalls and rice fields |
Start with Gili Air to settle in somewhere calm. One day, take the boat to Gili Meno and the Nest. Finish on Gili Trawangan, for its sunset and night market. Got a week? Cross to Lombok for its waterfalls at the foot of Mount Rinjani.
When to visit the Gili Islands
| Appeal | Season | Temperatures | Highlight | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rainy seasonDec. to March | 25 to 31 °C | Short showers and lush greenery | Low | |
| Shoulder seasonApril to June | 24 to 31 °C | Calm sea and clear water | Medium | |
| Dry seasonJuly and Aug. | 23 to 30 °C | Sun every day, and the crowds | High | |
| Late dry seasonSept. to Nov. | 24 to 32 °C | Dives with good visibility | Medium |
Our advice
Come from May to October, in the dry season: the sea is calmer for the crossings and the water clearer for snorkelling. Avoid July and August if you want peace and quiet. From December to March prices drop, but boats are sometimes cancelled.
Getting to the Gili Islands
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By plane to Bali or Lombok The simplest
From London, allow one stop, often in the Gulf or in Singapore, to reach Bali or Lombok. From Lombok airport, it's about two hours by road to Bangsal harbour.
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By fast boat from Bali The most common
Fast boats leave Bali's east coast for the Gilis in about two hours, depending on the sea. Book the day before and choose a reputable company: in rough seas the crossing is bumpy.
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By public boat from Lombok The cheapest
From Bangsal harbour, in north-west Lombok, public boats reach all three islands in about twenty minutes. They leave when full, mostly in the morning.
Between the islands, a shuttle boat does the loop once or twice a day, and you can also hire a private boat. Bring cash: there are cash machines on Trawangan and Air, but they sometimes break down.
Getting around the Gili Islands
On the islands there are no cars or scooters. You walk, or hire a bike for the day, perfect on Trawangan and Air. Horse-drawn carts, the cidomo, carry luggage from the harbour. The sandy tracks inland can be hard going by bike.
Good to know
The islands are Muslim, like Lombok: cover your shoulders and knees in the villages, away from the beach. During Ramadan, parties are more low-key. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, and never touch the turtles.
What to eat in the Gili Islands
- Ikan bakar: the catch of the day grilled over wood, served with rice and a chilli sauce.
- Satay: small chicken or beef skewers, coated in peanut sauce.
- Nasi campur: a plate of rice surrounded by small portions of vegetables, meat and sambal.
- Ayam taliwang: Lombok's very spicy grilled chicken, the speciality of the neighbouring island.
- Plecing kangkung: water spinach in a spicy tomato sauce, a Sasak classic.
- Fresh fruit juices: mango, papaya or dragon fruit, pressed in front of you at every warung.
To eat like the locals, look for a warung, a small family canteen, inland rather than on the seafront. Prices are two to three times lower. In the evening on Gili Trawangan, the night market will serve you grilled fish for little.
Where to stay in the Gili Islands
| Area | What for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Gili Trawangan | Bars, night market, diving | The liveliest |
| Gili Air | Village, calm beaches, snorkelling | The most balanced |
| Gili Meno | Silence, turtles, the Nest | The quietest |
How much does a trip in the Gili Islands cost?
| Trip | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (simple bungalow, warungs, snorkelling) | 5 days | €200 to €350 |
| Comfort (hotel with pool, dives, restaurants) | 5 days | €450 to €800 |
| Luxury (villa with private pool, spa) | 5 days | €1,000 to €2,000 |
- The boats: a fast-boat return from Bali often costs more than several hotel nights.
- Warungs: eating inland costs far less than on the seafront.
- Snorkelling: hiring a mask for the day is enough, no need to pay for a trip to see the turtles.
- The season: in July and August you often pay noticeably more.
- Cash: bring some, as cards aren't accepted everywhere and cash machines are temperamental.
Traditions and way of life in the Gili Islands
For a long time the Gili Islands were home to a few Sasak and Bugis fishing families from Lombok and Sulawesi, who grew coconuts there. The first backpackers arrived in the 1980s, looking for a beach with no road and no electricity.
Since then the islands have chosen to stay engine-free, and the islanders have kept their village life, around the mosque and the boats. In 2018 a strong earthquake struck Lombok and the islands, which recovered within a few years. Hear the call to prayer at sunset? It comes from the little village mosque.
