A sunny destination even in September
The end of summer was approaching; all my coworkers were returning from their vacations with glowing tans, while I was left pale and exhausted. September looked bleak for me, as I hadn't been able to take any time off due to work. I finally cracked, and after getting the go-ahead from my project manager, who, with the tan lines from his sunglasses still visible on his bronzed face, took pity on me, I started scouring travel sites for a sunny getaway. That’s when I found an 8-day trip to the Canary Islands, specifically to the island of Fuerteventura.
I had never considered going there, but I have to admit that after talking to people about it, it’s a destination well-known for its sunshine and relatively affordable prices. For instance, my trip cost me 430 euros per person, including breakfast and dinner buffets at a three-star hotel.
While doing my research, I learned that the Canaries are actually one of Spain’s autonomous communities, just like the Balearic Islands, Andalusia, the Basque Country, or Catalonia. So, I was heading to Spain, but based on photos of this volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean, a complete change of scenery seemed guaranteed.
Sure enough, after a flight of just over four hours on an EasyJet plane (though it seems there are shorter routes), I landed at the small del Matorral airport, located south of the capital, Puerto del Rosario. Before touching down, I could already tell that the change of scenery would be real: long beaches, arid volcanic landscapes, no doubt about it, I was a long way from France!
Practical information about Fuerteventura
The advantage of the Canaries is that you get a total change of scenery without the red tape: even though you're leaving Paris and heading toward the Tropic of Cancer, you're still in Spain! Also, as a member of the European Union, border checks upon arrival aren't mandatory. Still, as a precaution, and because you're flying, bring your ID card or even your passport; it’ll give you peace of mind.
As for money, the euro is the local currency. Credit cards are accepted in all tourist areas, whether for hotels, restaurants, rentals, etc. There are ATMs in the larger towns.
Checking into our hotel
After landing and collecting our bags, we were met by a representative from our tour operator. We boarded a bus to our three-star hotel ("Lobos Bahia"), located toward the north of the island in Corralejo. On the way to the bus in the parking lot, I was struck by how hard the wind was blowing. I remembered reading that the area is also a hotspot for surfers and windsurfers.
Once we arrived at the hotel, we noticed that real estate development was in full swing: about a dozen hotels were popping up, and the horizon was filled with cranes. You can tell that tourism is growing rapidly. I would later learn that Fuerteventura had been a bit behind in that regard and was trying to catch up.
At the hotel, the guide let us head to our rooms.
Ours was on the second floor, with a balcony offering a lovely view of the hotel pool.
The room was spacious, consisting of a living area, a bathroom, and a bedroom with two single beds (no double bed, despite our request) pushed together. The only slight downside: we had to make sure to close the balcony door tightly, because the wind blowing through the rubber seals created a kind of whistling sound that quickly became annoying.
Activities offered by the hotel
Once we’d changed and freshened up, we all met at the scheduled time for a brief presentation on the activities available within the hotel and, more generally, on the island during our stay. One of the activities proposed was a quad bike outing. We signed up for the day after next.
At the end of the meeting, the staff offered us a welcome drink, which was a mix of rum and honey. Quite tasty, but definitely strong... We were then directed to the buffet, where, with our guide explaining what was in front of us, we sampled several specialties: chorizo, olives, and potatoes with pepper and cilantro sauces. We followed that with seafood, especially fried calamari, seasoned with garlic and served with a dipping sauce. To finish, after a nice platter of cheese and fresh fruit, we ended with a dessert that looked like a caramel custard, the "leche asada."
After such a big meal, a little digestive stroll was in order! We walked around the grounds before heading out of the hotel and along the waterfront toward a massive stretch of sand. And there, a surprise: among the rocks along the path, squirrels came up to see us, trying to scavenge for food. Their cute little faces and frantic hunger were a big hit with the German and English tourists walking along the coast.
The path was lined with pines. Canary Island pines are almost an endemic species. They have the unique feature of having three needles, which seemed to delight the little rodents.
After a thirty-minute walk back (because the nearest town was quite far on foot...), we returned to our hotel. Every evening, a DJ performed in a room converted into a nightclub. Perhaps because of the season, not many people were there: we had the dance floor to ourselves! It seems these types of establishments are also developing, just like the hotels.
In the days that followed, we split our time between the hotel's 3 pools and the scheduled entertainment. I have to admit, though, that the wind never really left us, and on the rare occasions when clouds obscured the sky, the wind felt quite chilly. According to what one of the hotel employees tried to tell us, that’s the risk when you come around mid-September.
Excursions and exploring Fuerteventura
Quad biking
Among our outings, we tested the 4x4 quad bike tour. We took a bus with a group to the rental site in the north of the island near Corralejo, and we had a blast, the vast stretches of sand are perfect for this kind of thing. Plus, the guide who accompanied us showed us the different volcanic and sandy landscapes of the island. You don't need to be an expert driver to handle these machines; the driving is quite simple, and we were well-supervised.
During our excursion, we noticed all the advertising for Corralejo Natural Park. We went back a few days later as part of an excursion scheduled with other tourists from the hotel.
Corralejo Natural Park
The white sand of the dunes shapes the landscape. In fact, we are almost at the edge of the Sahara Desert. The colors are stunning, especially when the sun seems to reflect off the dunes before plunging into the sea. Honestly, it was worth seeing, so when I realized I’d left my camera in the hotel room, I had a few regrets... I’ll only be able to show you illustrations found on the Internet, sorry...
The dunes have been classified as a Natural Park since 2002.
Note: the tour was conducted in German, English, or Spanish, but for the occasion, our guide provided us with a simultaneous translation.
Once you cross them, you dive toward a sea of incredible blue. The beach is superb and long: honestly, it was a paradise!
Water sports and surfing
The only downside if you aren't a fan of water sports: the wind, always the wind! While ideal for windsurfing or surfing (though you still have to watch out for currents and waves), the breeze was refreshing when the sun got too intense.
The area is truly renowned for water sports enthusiasts, but, at least that’s what I thought when I saw the swells, it requires a good level of experience: I’m not sure a beginner would find it enjoyable. Just to get past the break, you need strong arms. And after that, you need to be tough: the wipeouts were pretty spectacular. In any case, for the locals and experienced athletes (including some French people who had come from Biarritz for their annual pilgrimage), Fuerteventura has several great spots.
This is also the case elsewhere in the Canaries; enthusiasts can find information on surfer sites and blogs.
The drawback of this wind is that as soon as the sky was even slightly overcast, you had to resist the urge to put your T-shirt back on.
In any case, the place encourages meditation and lounging... now that really felt like a vacation!
For once, even though I could see that the Corralejo area was really geared toward tourism, the vastness of the beach meant we weren't packed in, and by walking a little bit, it was possible to feel like we had these landscapes all to ourselves and enjoy a bit of privacy.
Visiting the capital, Puerto del Rosario
It’s hard to describe the city: it has a heterogeneous architecture, and unfortunately, we hadn't brought our guidebook with us. We probably missed some interesting sights, but we still noticed a few houses and churches with surprising styles. Sometimes, certain buildings even show traces of Andalusian culture, or even signs that looked like Mayan symbols (careful now, I have to admit I don't know enough about history and might be making a huge blunder...). But in any case, we were far from the villages of small white square houses we had seen on the way to Corralejo National Park.
The visit was quite short, but in any case, we hadn't found that many activities to do. So we headed back to the hotel to enjoy the sun by the pool.
The day before our departure, the tour operator and the hotel organized a small traditional party where singers were accompanied by musicians playing the "timple," which is a small four-stringed guitar. You’ll see a lot of them in souvenir shops. There were also larger instruments that produced the same sound as mandolins. Once again, we drank and ate local specialties.
Conclusion
To conclude, I would tell you that I went there for the sun and was quite surprised to find things to visit in an area I thought was exclusively geared toward lounging or sports tourism. Plus, the change of scenery is truly guaranteed: the "Red Island," as it’s nicknamed, offers landscapes I hadn't seen anywhere else. The only slightly negative point concerns the lack of cultural opportunities: aside from all the information you can get about nature or church visits, I wasn't offered many tours related to the island's history. But honestly, I wasn't really there for that anyway. So, if you're looking for relaxation and a total break, go for it! To guarantee sun, aim for July, August, and mid-September, and enjoy!
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