Hierapolis, the sacred city at the gates of hell
The tiered seating of the Roman theater cuts into the Anatolian sky, looking out over the white terraces of Pamukkale. Further down, toppled columns span 2,000 years of history. Along a paved street, a cave exhales toxic vapors: welcome to the gate of hell, where ancient priests once signaled to Pluto.
Why visit Hierapolis?
Founded in the 2nd century BCE by Eumenes II, the king of Pergamon, the city takes its name from Hiera, wife of the hero Telephos. As a sacred city in Greek, it lives up to the title. For generations, its thermal springs drew travelers from across the Mediterranean looking to treat their ailments.
Hierapolis reached its peak during the Roman Empire in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, following a total reconstruction after the earthquake of 60 AD. The city also became a major Christian hub. Saint Philip, one of the twelve apostles, was martyred and buried here. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988, it forms a unique complex with Pamukkale, blending natural wonders with profound archaeological ruins.
The Roman theater, an architectural gem
You cannot miss the theater that looms over the site. Built under the reigns of Hadrian and Septimius Severus, this monumental structure held between 10,000 and 15,000 spectators. Its facade stretches more than 100 meters, organized into two levels of seating with 26 rows each.
The sculpted reliefs on the stage, finely chiseled into marble, are particularly striking. They depict deities and scenes from Roman mythology. Despite earthquakes that ravaged the region over the centuries, the theater held firm thanks to its solid underground vaulted passages. From the top rows, the view takes in the entire site and the limestone terraces of Pamukkale shimmering below.
Pro tip: Head to the theater in the late afternoon, around 5 or 6 PM in summer. The low-angle light highlights the sculpted reliefs, and the heat becomes manageable. If you visit in winter, enjoy the nighttime lighting of the main monuments. The show is magical and you will completely avoid the crowds.
The necropolis, a record of the ages
The northern necropolis is among the largest in Türkiye, housing over 1,200 tombs. It stretches for several kilometers along the road leading to the site's northern entrance. Hellenistic tumuli, Roman sarcophagi adorned with bas-reliefs, and house-shaped tombs reflect the cosmopolitan nature of the ancient city.
Several Jewish tombs bear witness to the significant community that lived in Hierapolis. You will also find the famous tomb of Marcus Aurelius Ammianos, featuring a relief that shows the oldest known example of a crank and connecting rod mechanism. Some sarcophagi carry detailed inscriptions listing the professions of the deceased and their good deeds.
The distinct atmosphere of this necropolis, with tombs scattered through scrubland dotted with pines, invites quiet reflection. It is easy to see why so many sick people came to spend their final days in this spa town, famous for its healing properties.
The Plutonium and underground mysteries
The gateway to the underworld
Near the Temple of Apollo lies a small cave the ancients considered the entrance to the kingdom of Hades. The Plutonium takes its name from Pluto, the Roman god of the dead. Geothermal carbon dioxide vapors escape from this cavity, lethal to anyone who ventures inside.
Ancient accounts by Strabo and Damascius describe the ritual ceremonies held here. The eunuch priests of Cybele, perhaps holding their breath or aware of the air currents, entered unharmed while sacrificial animals perished instantly. Birds drawn to the warm air would fall dead over the cave.
The site today
Rediscovered in 1965 by Italian archaeologists and reopened to the public in 2022, the Plutonium remains active. Toxic gases continue to vent from the cave. For safety, direct access to the cave is prohibited, but you can view the site from a designated platform. A replica of the statue of Hades and Cerberus was returned to its original spot during restoration.
Other treasures of Hierapolis
The Antique Pool of Cleopatra
Between the archaeological museum and the Temple of Apollo, the antique pool offers a unique experience. Its 36°C (97°F) thermal waters are scattered with submerged columns and marble blocks that fell during earthquakes. Swimming among these ruins creates a surreal sensation, as if you are floating through history.
Legend says Cleopatra herself bathed in these regenerative waters. Access to the pool requires an additional fee of 6 TRY (about $0.20) not included in the general admission ticket. Bring a swimsuit and a towel.
The agora and the baths
The agora of the 2nd century, a vast rectangular square, served as the commercial and political center of the city. Shops under porticoes welcomed merchants from across Anatolia. Nearby, the great baths, built of massive stone blocks without mortar, now house the archaeological museum. Its collections display magnificent sculpted sarcophagi, divine statues, and everyday objects.
The colonnaded street and the Gate of Domitian
Frontinus Street, a long thoroughfare lined with columns, crosses the city for more than a kilometer. It connects the southern gate to the imposing Gate of Domitian in the north, a monumental three-arched gateway built in 82-83 by the proconsul Julius Frontinus. The remains of the public latrines next to the gate, with their ornate columns, show the refinement of Roman urban life.
The Martyrium of Saint Philip
At the top of a monumental staircase, outside the northwest ramparts, the octagonal martyrium of Saint Philip impresses with its ingenious layout. Radiating chapels, polygonal rooms, and triangular spaces link around a central octagon to form a square structure. This masterpiece of 4th to 6th-century early Christian architecture marks the site where the apostle was said to be martyred and buried.
Pro tip: If you have limited time, prioritize the theater, the necropolis, and the Plutonium. Rent an electric golf cart at the entrance (about 700 TRY, or $20 for an hour). The site is massive and distances between monuments are significant, especially under the summer sun. The drivers know the best photo spots.
Opening hours
*Information subject to change
Apart from the Roman theater, the ruins are in pretty bad shape and it is quite difficult to get a sense of what the place must have been like in the past. It was clearly a huge thermal center, frequented by Roman emperors!
On the other hand, the setting, especially Pamukkale, is exceptional.