Visiting Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey
Perched 80 meters above the most famous bay in Normandy, the Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, a historic monument designated as a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the most visited gems in France, drawing 3 million visitors annually. Set in a rugged, dramatic landscape, you will be struck by this Wonder of the West, which offers far more than its postcard image suggests.
A Turbulent History
Founded in 708 by Aubert, the bishop of Avranches, the small chapel on Mont-Trombe quickly became a major pilgrimage site. By the end of the century, the Duke of Normandy, Richard I, installed Benedictine monks there. Gothic-style expansions were eventually carried out, and the cramped original structure was converted into a crypt. To protect the building from English assaults, defensive walls and a chatelet were added. Placed under the care of the congregation of Saint-Maur, the abbey was reformed and, during the French Revolution, converted into a prison. The abbey church was partitioned to house 14,000 inmates. Restoration work began in 1874, and the bell tower, topped by a spire featuring a statue of Saint-Michel, was installed in 1897.
What to See
Today, 15 brothers and sisters from the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem live on-site. You can explore 80 percent of the abbey. Inside, you will be struck by the luminous choir, which contrasts sharply with the austerity of the Romanesque nave. Built in the flamboyant style, it opens into five chapels filled with light. Take note of the 13th-century stone Virgin and the alabaster altarpiece. To the north, you will find the aumônerie (almonry), the salle des Hôtes (guest hall) with its two massive fireplaces, and the refectory. To the west, you will enter the cellar, and the salle des chevaliers (knights' hall) will surprise you with its intricate sculpted decor. If time permits, wander through the gardens. They offer a unique perspective on the abbey.
Opening hours
*Information subject to change
I still stand by it, despite the overtourism: Mont-Saint-Michel is something you have to do at least once in your life. Having gone back recently with some foreign friends who wanted to visit, it is true that it remains magical. It looks almost like a miracle, this little town lost in the middle of the sand and the sea. My friend had this thought that I loved: "It looks like Minas Tirith in The Lord of the Rings!" and it is true that the Mont definitely has a fantasy vibe. Special mention for the mini-hike crossing the bay, which you should do with a guide. It is really interesting to learn more about the quicksand along the way.