Visiting Cafe Tortoni
Appearances can be deceiving. Located today at 825 Avenida de Mayo, Cafe Tortoni was founded in 1858 by a French immigrant known as Touan. Contrary to common assumptions, the establishment is not an Italian creation. It was named Tortoni after a namesake venue in the French capital. That original spot was located on the Boulevard des Italiens and served as a regular gathering place for the cultural and social elite of 19th-century Paris. The French immigrant initially opened his cafe at the corner of Calle Rivadavia and Calle Esmeralda. Following the growth of the capital of Argentina, Touan moved his cafe in 1880 to its current location.
Taste above all else
The establishment has long been highly regarded, counting prominent figures like Juan Manuel Fangio, Juan Carlos of Bourbon, and even Albert Einstein among its past patrons. Decorated in a style that skillfully blends the aesthetic of a Parisian bistro with that of a typical porteño cafe, Cafe Tortoni maintains a certain elegance. It is a setting that attracts a wide range of visitors. Regulars often head to the basement to dance the tango or listen to jazz in a space specifically designed for performances. The bar area houses a small library for those looking for a quiet read. Groups can also play checkers, dominoes, cards, or billiards at the tables in the back. The atmosphere remains consistently welcoming, and the house chocolate y churros never fails to impress anyone who orders it.
A Porteño institution, a must-visit. Choose your timing carefully because there are always people wanting to get in. Once inside, beautiful architecture from a time that passes but never changes. There is a small tribute to Borges and other illustrious former Argentine clients in the back. Above the cafe, the tango museum :)