Visiting Podgorica
Occupied since antiquity, Podgorica gained international prominence in 2006 when it became the capital of Montenegro following the country's independence, taking the title from its historic rival, Cetinje. The city holds a strategic position at the confluence of the Morača and Ribnica rivers and sits at the crossroads of major roads leading to other regions of the country. It was under the Yugoslav era, when it was renamed Titograd, that the city underwent its most significant urban development, marked by the construction of vast, brutalist-style residential neighborhoods typical of communist regimes.
A city in transition
Ever since the destruction caused by World War II, Podgorica has been a city in a constant state of construction. Around the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, built in 1993, the new city, or Nova Varoš, continues to expand. It is a decent area for shopping, but do not spend too much time there, as the real heart of Podgorica beats on the other side of the Morača river. Cross the Millennium Bridge, a symbol of the Montenegrin capital erected in 2005, to reach the Stara Varoš, or old town.
Constructed and occupied by the Turks for nearly four centuries, the old town retains its original architecture, two mosques, and a fortress. Take a break at the Clock Tower square, where the dial has been ticking for nearly 300 years. Here, you can enjoy a Turkish coffee or dine on typical Balkan dishes. Afterward, stroll along the banks of the Morača river to the exact point where it meets the Ribnica stream. At this confluence, you will find the oldest structure in the city, the old Adži-pašin bridge, built during the Ottoman Empire.
A preserved natural setting
Podgorica features several beautiful parks, including Njegošev park, which overlooks the river. Further north, Gorica park is worth a visit. It offers numerous adventure courses, tree-climbing, and ziplines that appeal to both kids and adults. Petrovica park houses a former royal residence that has been converted into a contemporary art center.
The lush landscapes surrounding Podgorica hold many wonders. Just a few dozen minutes by car from the capital, along the Cievna river, you can admire impressive waterfalls. A bit further south, the best of Montenegrin nature awaits. Lake Skadar spreads its calm waters through a green landscape rich in biodiversity, designated as a national park in 1983. The bird sanctuary protects numerous species, most notably the Dalmatian pelican, the park's emblem. You can explore it on foot or by boat by booking one of many excursions departing from Virpazar.
When to go
Podgorica is a pleasant city to visit during the warmer months, from May to September. Be aware, however, that heat waves can occur during the summer.
How to get there
There are no direct flights from the US, but several airlines serve Podgorica with a connection in cities like Vienna, Warsaw, Belgrade, or Istanbul. US citizens do not need a visa for short stays, provided their passport is valid for at least three months beyond their planned date of departure from the Schengen area or Montenegro.
You can also take a train from the neighboring Serbian capital, Belgrade. The trip takes about 10-12 hours and passes through memorable mountain landscapes.
People have said Podgorica is boring, soulless, and should be avoided... I disagree!
First off, I invite you to check out the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ. This cathedral is incredible, both inside and out with its "atypical" architecture. Believer or not, I promise you a magical moment.
Next, take the time to discover the main bridge in the city and the small parks where you can find statues of the famous figures who shaped the destiny of Montenegro.
So yes, 1 or 2 days will be more than enough... But Podgorica is worth a quick detour. :)