Visiting Berlin, a capital defined by history and counterculture
Contrasting and kinetic, Berlin is a city where the remnants of the past coexist with a relentless creative scene. From its heavy-hitting monuments to its alternative neighborhoods, it draws everyone from history buffs to fans of electronic music and street art. The local food scene and a distinct, gritty atmosphere make it a primary destination in Germany.
Tracing history: from the Berlin Wall to the Brandenburg Gate
Berlin still carries the marks of its turbulent 20th century. The Brandenburg Gate, a symbol of reunification, is a mandatory stop. Just a few steps away, the Holocaust Memorial pays tribute to the victims of Nazism through a labyrinth of imposing concrete slabs. The Berlin Wall, though largely demolished, remains at the East Side Gallery, where murals from artists around the world turn the surviving stretch into an open-air art installation.
A city of many faces
Each Berlin neighborhood has its own gravity. Mitte is where you find the major museums and monuments, while Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain lean into a bohemian vibe with independent cafes and alternative cultural spaces. Further south, Neukölln is an evolving district known for its dive bars and street markets. To the west, Charlottenburg offers a more traditional, polished feel with its grand avenues and famous palace.
Museums and culture: a hub of knowledge
Berlin is a high-density zone for culture. The Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site, houses institutions like the Pergamon Museum and the Neues Museum. For a look at more recent history, the Checkpoint Charlie Wall Museum documents the escape attempts from the former East Germany. For contemporary art, the Hamburger Bahnhof is the standard-bearer for the city.
Legendary nightlife
Berlin is famous for a nightlife scene that operates on its own schedule. From the mythic Berghain to underground clubs tucked into repurposed industrial spaces, the city is a playground for night owls. Travelers looking for a more relaxed evening will prefer the low-key bars of Prenzlauer Berg or the rooftops in Friedrichshain. The musical range is just as wide, spanning everything from rock and jazz to experimental electronic sets.
Hearty and unpretentious food
While German cuisine is often stereotyped, a few local staples are worth the calories. The currywurst, a grilled sausage smothered in spiced tomato sauce, is the quintessential street food. For something heavier, the eisbein, a braised pork knuckle served with sauerkraut, shows off the traditional side of the local palate. When it comes to drinks, the city is known for its craft beers and a deep-seated culture of outdoor Biergartens.
Where to eat?
- Curry 36 (Kreuzberg), An institution for grabbing an authentic currywurst.
- Zur Letzten Instanz (Mitte), The oldest restaurant in Berlin, serving classic, traditional dishes.
- Katz Orange (Mitte), A modern spot that focuses on organic and locally sourced ingredients.
- Markthalle Neun (Kreuzberg), A covered market hall perfect for sampling both local specialties and international bites.
Where to stay?
- Hotel Adlon Kempinski (Mitte), An iconic 5-star hotel with a direct view of the Brandenburg Gate.
- Michelberger Hotel (Friedrichshain), A boutique hotel with a casual, creative atmosphere.
- The Circus Hostel (Mitte), A modern, social hostel that is a great pick for travelers on a tighter budget.
- 25hours Hotel Bikini (Charlottenburg), A design-focused hotel with panoramic views overlooking the Berlin Zoo.
When to go?
Spring and fall are the best times to visit Berlin, as the weather is mild and the streets are less crowded than in mid-summer. December is also a popular time for its Christmas markets, especially the one at Gendarmenmarkt. Summer, while occasionally hot, is packed with outdoor festivals.
How to get there?
Berlin is well-connected to major cities, with direct flights from across Europe and the US. A round-trip flight from major hubs can range from 80 to 200 EUR (about $85 to $215). The city is also easily accessible by train, with high-speed connections from Frankfurt, Hamburg, or Prague.
Getting around
The Berlin transit network is robust and reliable. The subway (U-Bahn) and the suburban train (S-Bahn) make it easy to cross the city. Buses and trams fill in the gaps, while renting a bicycle is a popular alternative for exploring at your own pace.
Haha, la langue allemande et ses déclinaisons. J'ai fait 10 ans d'Allemand à l'école et je suis incapable aujourd'hui de tenir une conversation dans la langue de Goethe !