Saint-Valery-sur-Somme: Where William the Conqueror changed history
The scent of salt air mingles with the hollyhocks spilling over cobblestone alleys. Down on the quay, a fisherman hauls in his nets while, out on the sandbars, rounded shapes bask in the sun: the seals are out. It was from this spot in 1066 that a fleet of nearly 700 ships set sail for England to claim a throne. William of Normandy was waiting for the right wind. He found it.
A town for slowing down
Recognized as one of the most charming detours in France and a runner-up for the country's favorite village in 2017, this medieval town of 2,400 residents draws history buffs and photographers chasing shifting light. The Baie de Somme is one of the premier spots in Europe for spotting migratory birds and wild seals.
However, travelers looking for a nightlife scene or vast stretches of sandy beach will be disappointed. The tide recedes for miles, and evenings here are quiet. A car is almost essential for exploring the surrounding area.
Reasonable costs for Northern France
Expect to pay between 70 and 150 euros ($75-$160) per night for a guesthouse or boutique hotel, and about 15 to 25 euros ($16-$27) for a restaurant meal. Guided walks across the bay run around 10 to 15 euros ($11-$16) per adult, and a one-way ticket on the steam train costs about 15 euros ($16).
The medieval city: Head up for the view
The upper town dominates the bay from its limestone promontory. The tours Guillaume mark the main entrance to the fortified city. This is the very place where William the Conqueror waited before his invasion of England. Joan of Arc was also held here as a prisoner in 1430 before being taken to Rouen.
From the lookout, the view stretches across the vast bay. The sandbars change color throughout the day, and herds of salt-meadow lambs graze on the mollières, or tidal grasslands. The église Saint-Martin stands out with its checkerboard facade of black and white flint, unchanged for five centuries.
Pro tip: stop by the Herbarium des Remparts, a secret botanical garden tucked against the old walls. Maintained by passionate volunteers, it grows medicinal, dye, and even toxic plants in a carefully curated wildness. Admission is around 5 euros ($5.50).
Le Courtgain: The sailors' soul
This neighborhood of colorful facades was once home to the local fishermen. Small red and blue brick houses cling to the side of the cliff. Narrow lanes climb up to the Calvaire des Marins, which offers a striking vantage point over the bay. On Sunday mornings, the market on the quays draws locals and visitors alike for seafood and produce from Picardy farms.
The Baie de Somme: By foot, train, or kayak
Walking across the bay remains the most memorable experience. Accompanied by a mandatory nature guide, you spend three hours trekking through quicksand and salt marshes, sometimes with water up to your calves. Departures leave from the quay, often combined with the petit train à vapeur that connects Saint-Valery to Le Crotoy.
This century-old train crosses the bay on a causeway, offering views you cannot see any other way. The trip takes about an hour. You can bring your bike on the train and return via the bike path.
Pro tip: to see seals up close, opt for a rigid-hulled inflatable boat or sea kayak trip rather than walking. The guides know the resting spots where harbor seals lounge at low tide. Expect to pay about 30 euros ($32) per person for an hour and a half.
The surroundings: Cap Hornu and Pointe du Hourdel
The Chapelle des Marins, perched on the hill of the former abbey, offers clear views of Cap Hornu. From there, you can walk or bike to Pointe du Hourdel, a fishing hamlet where you can watch seals from the pebble beach. The colony numbers about 800, making it the largest in France.
The parc du Marquenterre, a 20-minute drive away, has observation blinds for photographing cranes, spoonbills, and storks. The musée Picarvie reconstructs a Picardy village from the early 20th century with about 40 traditional trades.
Where to eat and drink in Saint-Valery-sur-Somme?
The local specialty is agneau de prés-salés, lamb raised on the salt marshes where they graze on glasswort. The meat has a subtle, sea-salt flavor. The ficelle picarde, a crepe stuffed with ham and mushrooms and topped with cream, is on almost every menu.
The restaurant Baie, on the rue de la Ferté, serves local cuisine and has just 14 seats. Reservations are a must. The Schorre, located in the former Salt Warehouse, a historic landmark, prepares regional vegetables with precision. For a laid-back vibe, the Rivat functions as a wine bar with boards of charcuterie, oysters, and occasional live music.
Where to stay in Saint-Valery-sur-Somme and nearby?
The town center has several guesthouses and boutique hotels. The hôtel Les Pilotes, facing the bay, offers great value. The Relais Guillaume de Normandy, set in a Belle Époque manor, has a terrace overlooking the estuary. Campgrounds and rural gites in the surrounding villages are good options for lower rates.
How to get to and around Saint-Valery-sur-Somme?
By car from Paris, the drive takes just over two hours via the A16 motorway, taking exit 23 for "Baie de Somme." The nearest train station is in Noyelles-sur-Mer, on the Paris-Nord/Boulogne line. Parking in the town center is metered. The véloroute de la Vallée de la Somme bike path allows you to arrive by bike from Abbeville or Amiens.
From Belgium or the United Kingdom, access is via Calais or the Channel Tunnel, then the A16.
When to go?
From April to June, the alleys are covered in flowers and the migratory birds return. September and October offer exceptional light over the bay, which is popular with photographers. Summer is lively but never packed. In winter, many businesses close, but the bay reveals a raw and wild beauty.
Saint-Valery is a must-visit in the Baie de Somme. The town is very pretty and pleasant, and you just feel good there. You can walk around the center and discover the different neighborhoods. Parts of the walls still remain in the upper town. During the nice season, the town is very lively.