Visiting Ghent, the Flemish beauty that is no museum city
The first sound that greets you in Ghent is not church bells, but the soft hum of bicycle tires on damp cobblestones, woven into the murmur of sidewalk cafe chatter. This is a city that carries its history with elegance but pulses with a university-town energy, refusing to be frozen in a postcard aesthetic.
Is this Flemish jewel for you?
Ghent is a dream for travelers who find Bruges a bit too polished, almost intimidating. It is ideal for culture lovers who enjoy moving from a Flemish masterpiece to street art, and for curious foodies. It is a romantic city, but it is a living, breathing romance.
If you are looking for total silence or a rock-bottom price point, this might surprise you. Student life gives the city a constant energy, and while prices are softer than in Bruges, they remain those of a major European city.
Leave the car behind. The city center is largely pedestrian and best enjoyed on foot or by tram.
The historic heart: a living postcard
The most famous sight sits along the quays of the Graslei (Grass Quay) and the Korenlei (Grain Quay). This is where the old guild houses, with their sculpted stepped gables, reflect in the dark waters of the Lys river. It is the city's main gathering spot, where students and travelers claim a patch of cobblestone the moment the sun comes out.
For the most striking view, head to the Saint Michael's Bridge. In a single glance, you can take in the three iconic towers of the city: the majestic Belfry, Saint Bavo's Cathedral, and Saint Nicholas' Church, built from blue-gray stone from Tournai. This is the definitive Ghent panorama.
Local tip: Do as the residents do and hop on a boat for a tour of the canals. This perspective from the water offers a completely different take on the architecture and helps you understand why the city was born at the confluence of the Lys and Scheldt rivers.
Patershol and the Castle of the Counts: a trip to the Middle Ages
Dominating the city with its mass of gray stone, the Castle of the Counts is an imposing medieval fortress that feels ripped from a history book. A visit, which includes a collection of torture instruments, offers a superb panorama of the old town rooftops from the top of its ramparts.
Just at the foot of the castle lies the Patershol neighborhood. This maze of cobblestone alleys, once rough around the edges, is now the gastronomic heart of the city. You will find an incredible concentration of small, charming restaurants serving cuisines from around the globe in a historic setting.
Local tip: Restaurants in Patershol are popular and often tiny. If you have your heart set on a specific spot, especially on weekends, book your table in advance to avoid disappointment.
The artistic soul: from Old Masters to street art
Culture in Ghent is an ongoing dialogue between past and present. In Saint Bavo's Cathedral, visitors gather to admire one of the greatest masterpieces in art history: the Mystic Lamb by the Van Eyck brothers. The splendor and precision of this polyptych are difficult to overstate.
A few minutes away, a small alley called Werregarenstraatje offers a completely different experience. Entirely dedicated to street art, its walls are a constantly changing canvas for local graffiti artists. It is a concentrated dose of the city's alternative, creative culture and a perfect counterpoint to the solemnity of museums like the SMAK (Museum of Contemporary Art) or the STAM (City Museum).
Where to eat and drink in Ghent?
The city is a paradise for food lovers. You absolutely must try the Ghent waterzooi, a creamy stew made with chicken or fish and vegetables. For something sweet, treat yourself to cuberdons, cone-shaped raspberry candies sold from small wooden carts in the street.
The old Great Butcher's Hall, a superb 15th-century covered market, is the ideal place to discover products from East Flanders. And naturally, no visit to Belgium is complete without sipping a local beer in a traditional brown cafe.
Where to sleep in Ghent and the surrounding area?
For total immersion, choose a hotel in the historic center between the cathedral and the Graslei to be as close as possible to the major sites. The Patershol neighborhood offers charming options perfect for foodies. Travelers seeking a younger, trendier vibe should look toward the arts district near the SMAK.
How to get to and around Ghent?
The train is by far the best option. From Brussels, frequent connections will bring you to Gent-Sint-Pieters station in 30 minutes. From Paris, the trip via Eurostar takes about an hour and a half.
Once you arrive, the center is best navigated on foot. The tram and bus network is highly efficient for getting from the station to the center or for exploring the further-out neighborhoods.
When to go?
The city is pleasant year-round. Spring and summer allow you to take full advantage of the canal-side terraces. In July, the Gentse Feesten transform the city into a massive public festival for ten days. Autumn and winter offer a more intimate and mysterious atmosphere, with beautiful lighting and Christmas markets.
We decided, a bit by chance and mostly because we didn't have enough time that day to get to Bruges, to go to Ghent instead. We weren't disappointed, and we have been back several times since. Located at the confluence of a river and a canal, Ghent was a port city in the past, but today it is a lively student and tourist town. This city is especially vibrant, whether you are in the main squares, along the docks, or wandering down a small pedestrian street. I particularly love its pedestrian center with its medieval architecture, the 12th-century Castle of the Counts, and the Graslei, a row of houses from various eras and styles. When art meets old stone, it results in the Street Art that is so present in Ghent, like Graffiti Street, which you absolutely cannot miss!