Visiting Nara, a window into ancient Japan
As the first permanent capital of Japan, Nara is a city where history and nature exist in a delicate balance. Known for its centuries-old temples and free-roaming deer, it offers a quiet pace that stands in contrast to the high-energy sprawl of nearby Japanese metropolises. Located just an hour from Osaka and Kyoto, it serves as a common day trip for those seeking a mix of cultural heritage and calm.
Nara Park and the sacred deer
Nara Park is the city's most recognizable landmark. It is home to hundreds of shika deer, which are considered messengers of the gods in the Shinto tradition. These animals are accustomed to visitors and will often approach without hesitation, sometimes bowing in exchange for the specialized crackers sold throughout the park. Beyond the deer, the park grounds contain several major sites, most notably Tōdai-ji.
Tōdai-ji temple and its Great Buddha
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Tōdai-ji is the centerpiece of a visit to Nara. It houses the Daibutsu, a massive bronze Buddha statue standing 15 meters tall. The main hall, the Daibutsuden, remains one of the largest wooden buildings on the planet. Many visitors try to squeeze through a narrow opening in one of the temple's pillars, a feat said to grant luck and wisdom to those who succeed.
Kasuga-taisha shrine and its lanterns
On the edge of Nara Park, Kasuga-taisha is known for its thousands of stone and bronze lanterns, which are lit during festivals in February and August. This Shinto shrine is surrounded by a protected forest that enhances its secluded feel. The shaded paths leading to the site offer a chance to explore smaller auxiliary shrines and observe the local landscape.
Hōryū-ji temple and Buddhist heritage
Located about 15 kilometers (9 miles) from central Nara, Hōryū-ji is one of the oldest Buddhist temple complexes in Japan. Built in the 7th century, it contains some of the world's oldest surviving wooden structures. It sees fewer crowds than Tōdai-ji and offers a deeper look into the religious art and architecture of that era.
Refined cuisine with traditional roots
Nara’s food scene reflects its historical significance and its proximity to Kyoto. Kakinoha-zushi, a pressed sushi wrapped in a persimmon leaf, is the local signature dish. Chagayu, a green tea rice porridge, is a classic staple dating back to the Nara period. To pair with these meals, local sake from the city's long-standing breweries is highly regarded.
Where to eat?
- Kakinoha Sushi Honpo (Naramachi) - A restaurant dedicated to the local specialty, kakinoha-zushi.
- Edogawa Naramachi (Naramachi) - A spot known for its unagi (grilled eel).
- Kasuga Ninai Jyaya (Kasuga-taisha) - A traditional teahouse serving chagayu.
- Harushika Sake Brewery (Sanjo) - A brewery that offers tastings of local sake.
Where to stay?
- Nara Hotel (Nara Park) - A historic hotel with a retro aesthetic and views of the park.
- Sarusawa no Ie (Naramachi) - An authentic ryokan for a traditional Japanese lodging experience.
- Guesthouse Naramachi (Naramachi) - A casual guesthouse located inside a former townhome.
- Super Hotel Lohas JR Nara (JR Nara) - A modern hotel with an on-site onsen, convenient for commuters.
When to go?
Spring (March-April) and autumn (October-November) are the best times to visit Nara, offering mild temperatures and landscapes marked by cherry blossoms or turning maple leaves. Summers are hot and humid, while winters are cold but provide a much quieter experience.
How to get there?
Nara is easy to reach from Osaka and Kyoto. From Kyoto, a train ride takes 45 minutes and costs around 700 JPY (about $4.70). From Osaka, the trip takes 30 minutes via the Kintetsu or JR lines. Express trains are a faster option for a slightly higher fare.
How to get around?
The center of Nara is best explored on foot, especially the park and the major temples. For more distant sites like Hōryū-ji, the city has a reliable bus network. Renting a bicycle is also a practical way to navigate the city streets.
Nara is famous for its deer roaming free. It is also an ancient city with many temples set in nature. However, I found the city to be a bit overrated. You have to walk an awful lot before you actually reach the nature part. There are tons of tourists stuffing the deer with biscuits, and there is nothing really cute about it. Honestly, the temples are not the most incredible ones in Japan. Still, Nara is worth the trip.