Visiting Aswan
Perched on the east bank of the Nile, Aswan serves as Egypt's southernmost major city, acting as a cool oasis amidst the desert. As the gateway to the ancient Kingdom of Nubia, it has a history deeply rooted in trade routes and caravans. While many travelers treat it as a fleeting pit stop before heading to the temples of Abu Simbel, the city itself possesses a distinct character defined by its lush, green landscapes, scenic islands, and significant historical sites.
A market you cannot miss
Navigating Aswan is straightforward, as the corniche runs along the Nile for several miles, concentrating most of the city's cafes and restaurants. It makes for a pleasant stroll, with the city unfolding into the streets perpendicular to the water. The souk is one of the city's most vibrant landmarks. Day or night, this large covered market is packed with vendors, and the stalls overflow with Egyptian and African goods including perfumes, spices, textiles, handicrafts, incense, fruits, and flowers. It is the place to hunt for deals, and on the outskirts, Nubian culture is on display through traditional items like talismans, jewelry, and basketry. The market is a sensory experience of color and scent. A local specialty is stuffed pigeon, often prepared with rice, served on skewers, or simply grilled. You will also find molokhia (a traditional vegetable soup), eggplant dishes, mezzes, tahini, and fresh fish. Pair your meal with local flatbread, fresh fruit juices, and a Nubian coffee spiced with cardamom.
Island hopping
Directly across from the city center, Elephantine Island is a must-see. You can reach it by hiring a felucca, one of the traditional sailboats that remain the most common way to get around on the water here. Siou and Koti, two Nubian villages, sit nestled between farm fields and palm groves on the island, where the colorful homes create a quiet, timeless atmosphere. You can explore the ruins of the Temple of Khnum, dedicated to the ram-headed deity. Within this archaeological site, you will find the nilometer, which is arguably the most famous staircase used to measure the Nile's annual flood levels. Colonnades decorated with hieroglyphs round out the site, and from here, you can see the elegant pink granite Aga Khan Mausoleum, built in 1959, overlooking the water. A small museum dedicated to Nubian culture provides context on the region's history, which is closely linked to the construction of the Aswan High Dam. You can visit the dam itself, and the recent Nile Museum offers a complete overview of the project.
The neighboring island is a small slice of paradise. Kitchener Island is home to the fabulous Botanical Garden, established in 1896. The relief provided by its greenery in the middle of the desert is striking. Plants, flowers, and trees from equatorial Africa, India, and tropical Asia create a lush canopy. The contrast with the arid sand on the opposite bank is sharp, and the garden serves as a peaceful refuge for birds.
On the west bank of the Nile, the Tombs of the Nobles feature long ramps used for transporting sarcophagi. It is a mysterious site that offers panoramic views. Further west, the Monastery of Saint Simeon sits atop a plateau. It was once home to 300 monks until 1321, and this complex of four buildings remains one of the most important monuments from the Christian era. With its 26-foot walls, it resembles a fortress and is remarkably well-preserved. About 1.2 miles from Aswan, the granite quarry houses the Unfinished Obelisk. Commissioned by Queen Hatshepsut nearly 1,500 years before the common era, the project was abandoned after the stone cracked, leaving us with a massive relic still lying in its excavation trench. Six miles away, on Philae Island, the Temple of Isis from the 4th century BCE is yet another architectural marvel. Aswan is a legitimate destination in its own right, offering a genuine and compelling experience.
When to go
The climate is arid and dry. It is most pleasant from December through February when temperatures are mild. From June through September, the heat can become extreme.
How to get there
You can find numerous flights into Aswan International Airport, located 12 miles from the city center. Public transportation and taxis are available for the transfer. If you are coming from Cairo, 520 miles away, you can take a sleeper train, which is a popular choice for the distance, or a direct 80-minute domestic flight.
