Cliffs and pebbles, a must-see on the Alabaster Coast
A true staple of the Alabaster Coast, Etretat Beach, nestled between Le Havre and Fécamp, ranks for many as one of the most stunning beaches in France. Its kilometer-long stretch of flint pebbles tucked within a valley offers sweeping views of the English Channel and the famous Amont Cliff and Aval Cliff. A feast for the eyes and an invitation to daydream, Etretat Beach shifts its character with the tides and the seasons. Whether calm and relaxing, packed with crowds, or buzzing with activity, you are guaranteed to fill your lungs with fresh sea air.
The history of a chic resort
Etretat likely derives its name from the term Estre, which referred to an oyster, or from the Latin Estere, meaning to bore or pierce. Discovered by the painter Eugène Isabey in 1820, the beach became the subject of numerous canvases popular with the Romantics. During the Second French Empire, Napoleon III set out to transform the small fishing port into a fashionable seaside resort. The earliest bathers were none other than elite Parisian families and artists performing at the Paris Opera. The Le Havre Universal Exposition of 1869 also boosted the site's fame, its picturesque charm praised by Gustave Courbet and Alexandre Dumas.
World War II brought seaside tourism to a halt. Mutilated by Nazi occupiers, the beach lost much of its former glory: the casino and numerous coastal villas were destroyed, and a grim bunker was built. The beach even witnessed fierce naval battles. These historical remnants are documented in photographs, so do not miss them.
A treasure to preserve
Today, Etretat, which has a year-round population of around one thousand residents, relies mainly on day-tripping tourism. The town is stepping up efforts to protect its beach, which is already vulnerable to erosion. Measures such as banning pebble collection have been implemented with varying degrees of success.
Etretat Beach offers a magnificent view of the cliffs. The beach is made of pebbles, which is really nice. It was actually a bit crowded, but not too bad when I went in early September. Just a heads up, it is strictly forbidden to take any pebbles, as they are already threatened by the sea.