The Army Museum at Les Invalides: 500,000 artifacts and the tomb of Napoleon beneath a gilded dome
Under the soft light of the attic, scale models of fortified cities stretch across several square meters. On the ground floor, the polished steel of royal armor catches the daylight. Deep below in a crypt excavated six meters underground, a red porphyry sarcophagus holds the remains of Napoleon Bonaparte.
The Army Museum occupies one-third of Les Invalides, a monument that Louis XIV commissioned starting in 1670 to house his wounded or aging soldiers.
Why visit the Army Museum?
This museum ranks among the top five most visited in France, drawing over 1.2 million visitors annually. Its collections include nearly 500,000 objects spanning from the Bronze Age to the 20th century. Here, the world's third-largest collection of historical arms and armor sits alongside the Emperor's tomb, the Historial Charles de Gaulle, and unique fortifications models. The setting itself warrants a visit, as the gilded dome reaches 107 meters and its gold leaf serves as a reminder of the Sun King.
Royal armor and the ancient department
The section dedicated to ancient weaponry covers more than 2,000 square meters, showcasing five centuries of military history. The massive equestrian armor of François Ier, designed for a monarch who stood 1.98 meters tall, greets visitors. The former 17th-century refectory houses Crown collections once held in the armories of French kings. Several cabinets display treasures from outside Europe, including Ottoman diplomatic gifts, Japanese samurai weapons, and equipment from Mughal India.
The tomb of Napoleon beneath the Dome
The Dome Church, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, has held the remains of Napoleon Bonaparte since 1861. The architect Visconti designed a crypt 6 meters deep and 23 meters in diameter. The red quartzite sarcophagus contains five nested coffins. A mosaic depicts the major victories of the Empire, while twelve statues of Victories stand guard. The Dome also contains the mausoleums of Vauban, Turenne, and marshals Foch and Lyautey.
The two World Wars
The contemporary department covers history from 1871 to 1945. The famous taxi de la Marne (Marne taxi) sits near a trench model and a Grosse Bertha artillery piece. The Historial Charles de Gaulle, a 2,500 square meter space renovated in 2020, offers an audiovisual experience featuring a biographical film and 400 archival documents.
Pro tip: The free multimedia guide, accessible via the museum's WiFi, offers five tour routes. Remember to bring your own headphones.
The Museum of Plans-Reliefs
On the fourth floor, a unique collection of scale models of fortified cities ordered by Louvois starting in 1668 awaits visitors. Built at a 1/600 scale, they represent fortifications and landscapes with incredible precision. The model of Mont-Saint-Michel receives special attention. The dim lighting in these rooms adds a nearly mystical character to these objects, which reflect French geopolitics over two centuries.
Opening hours
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The museum is huge and offers so much to discover. It is a fascinating visit for history buffs and curious travelers alike. The layout lets you travel through the eras and admire numerous collections. Not to be missed: the Dôme des Invalides and Napoleon's tomb, which are truly impressive. You need to set aside several hours to see everything.