Inside the Theban mountain, the eternity of the pharaohs
The heat hits like a wall the moment you step off the electric shuttle. The silence of the desert settles over this ochre valley where 63 doorways pierce the limestone rock. For nearly five centuries, from the 16th to the 11th century BCE, the pharaohs of the New Kingdom carved their passages to the afterlife here. Far from the showy pyramids, they were seeking secrecy.
The Valley of the Kings is more than just a royal cemetery, it is a conservatory of ancient frescoes where the pigments defy time.
Why descend into these ancient tombs?
Because there is nothing else like it on Earth. Hieroglyphs run along the walls like frozen musical scores. The ceilings detail the sun's nocturnal journey through the twelve hours of the night. Each tomb is an open book on Egyptian cosmogony, carved and painted with startling precision. The colors, including lapis-lazuli blue, red ochre, and golden yellow, have survived three and a half millennia nearly intact.
This UNESCO World Heritage site has been preserved since 1979, housing the burials of titans like Ramesses II, Seti I, Thutmose III, and the most famous of them all, the young Tutankhamun. The discovery of his intact tomb by Howard Carter in 1922 changed archaeology forever. Teams are still excavating the valley today. The tomb of Ramesses VIII is likely sleeping somewhere beneath your feet.
The essential tombs included with your standard ticket
Your entry ticket grants you access to three tombs of your choice from about a dozen available. Choose carefully, as they are not all created equal:
- The tomb of Ramesses IV is appealing for its accessibility. There are no steep stairs, just a long, gently sloping corridor, and a beautifully preserved astronomical ceiling where the goddess Nut swallows the sun each evening to rebirth it at dawn.
- The tomb of Ramesses IX explodes with color. The blue and red pigments shine as if they were applied yesterday. The eighteen-year reign of this pharaoh allowed for a vibrant burial, even if his premature death left some sections at the back of the tomb unfinished.
- The tomb of Merenptah, son of the great Ramesses II, impresses with its size. It is the second-largest in the valley. The descent is steep, but the final burial chamber with its four nested sarcophagi is worth the effort.
Pro tip: Avoid Ramesses III during the high season, as it draws all the tour groups. Opt for the double tomb of Tausert and Setnakht, which is often deserted despite its spectacular proportions. This queen pharaoh had prepared her burial, but Setnakht usurped and expanded it. The result is a labyrinth of corridors and pillared halls that lets you breathe away from the crowds.
Premium tombs that are worth the investment
Ramesses V and VI: the absolute favorite
For just 180 EGP extra, the double tomb of Ramesses V and Ramesses VI is the best value in the valley. The ceiling of the burial chamber displays the goddess Nut along its entire length, her star-studded body swallowing and birthing the sun in an eternal cycle. The reliefs are incredibly fine and the colors are vibrant. This tomb alone justifies the trip.
Seti I: the unrivaled masterpiece
At 1,400 EGP, the tomb of Seti I is a significant expense. However, it is also the longest at 137 meters, the deepest, and the most richly decorated in the entire necropolis. The fifteen-year reign of this brilliant builder allowed for the creation of an extraordinary underground monument. The colors remain strikingly fresh. You will often be alone inside, as many visitors are deterred by the price.
Tutankhamun: the miniature icon
The most famous tomb in the world is also the smallest in the valley. With a shaky staircase, an antechamber, and a burial chamber, it reflects the fact that Tutankhamun reigned for only ten years and his tomb was prepared in a hurry. You can see his mummy behind a glass case and the gilded frescoes that adorn the walls. While the treasures discovered by Carter are now in the Cairo museum, the emotion of standing in this legendary place justifies the 500 EGP extra.
Tips for a successful visit
Arrive at opening time at 6:00 AM. The raking light of the sunrise on the cliffs is magical, the temperature is bearable, and you will have the tombs to yourself for one to two hours. The stairs leading into the depths of the mountain are steep, narrow, and sometimes slippery. Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes. The humidity and heat inside the tombs can be oppressive, especially when crowds pack into them.
Bring at least two liters of water per person, a hat, and sunscreen. There is almost no shade in the valley. Phone photography is now permitted for free in all tombs. If you want to use a DSLR camera, a pass costs 300 EGP for three tombs. Guides are not permitted inside the tombs for conservation reasons, so they will provide their commentary at the entrance.
Plan for two to three hours for a complete visit including three to four tombs. In the middle of summer, the site closes at 5:00 PM and the heat exceeds 45 degrees Celsius. The months from November to March offer the best conditions.
Opening hours
*Information subject to change