Visiting Coimbra
From 1139 to 1255, this city served as the capital of Portugal. Coimbra is both essential and captivating, a place where the country's most influential figures left their mark. As a riverside university town, a hub for intellectuals and artists, and a former Roman settlement and Moorish stronghold, its history is deep. It saw the birth of six medieval kings and the finest expressions of the Renaissance. You will find remnants of this legacy in every street, now woven into one of the most spirited destinations in Portugal thanks to students who maintain local traditions and fuel the nightlife. Situated halfway between Porto and Lisbon, it continues to impress.
One of the world's oldest universities
Bordered by the waters of the Mondego, Coimbra is built on la colline de l'Alacova and retains its 12th-century urban structure that once separated social classes. La Baixa, the lower part of the city, has become the center for bars, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. Previously reserved for the nobility and clergy, la cidade Alta, the upper quarter, gathers the main historical landmarks. These winding, cobblestone streets are quite steep, though an elevator can save you the climb, or you can opt for a tuk-tuk.
Dominating the plains, l'Universidade de Coimbra, founded in 1290 sits at the summit and ranks among the oldest in the world. Framing the courtyard and the clock tower of la chapelle Sao Miguel, a collection of buildings renovated up until the 18th century forms a site like no other. Passing la magistrale Porta Fèrrea de 1634, you will find le Palais Royal et ses salles d'apparat, Sé Nova, the late 16th-century new cathedral, and the Musée Machado de Castro, an episcopal palace with magnificent collections of Flemish and Portuguese sculptures nestled in the catacombs. This timeless place is extraordinary. Les trois étages de la bibliothèque Joanina can be visited by appointment. A jewel of Baroque art adorned with wood and gold leaf, it holds 300 000 ouvrages préservés dans les plus précieux matériaux from the colonial empire. Nearby, l'ancienne cathédrale du XIIe siècle has the fortress-like appearance of a building influenced by oriental styles and the Renaissance. Between the loggia, panoramic views, vaults, and galleries, the entire complex and the adjacent Rua da Sofia are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
For a breath of fresh air, head down to Jardim Botânico with its terraces, tropical plants, and fountains.
The religious heritage is significant. Notable sites include le Mosteiro de Santa Cruz, featuring both Romanesque and Baroque elements, with a remarkable 16th-century porch. It is adjacent to Jardim da Manga and its beautiful Renaissance monument. On the left bank of the river, do not miss les ruines du monastère gothique de Santa Clara, linked to the history of Queen Isabel. Across the way, you will find l'original village miniature Portugal dos Pequenitos, which retraces the country's history through scale reproductions of its most iconic buildings.
A city of festivals and Fado
Return to the present, or close to it, at la Praça do Comércio. Its outdoor terraces are perfect for enjoying the characterful facades that line the square, as well as the region's culinary specialties. Look for alheiras, spicy smoked sausages, the famous frango chicken, cod-based dishes, and pasteis, small cream flans. Sardines are also on the menu, and you will find an incroyable conserverie rue Fereira Borges to take a piece of Coimbra home with you. Les étudiants de l'université assurent une vie nocturne that is dynamic, with festive bars animating the whole city. Many clubs are dedicated to fado, as this is a major center for the music. As one of its songs asserts, "Coimbra is a lesson."
When to go
Located in the north-central part of the country, the climate is oceanic with winters that are generally mild but rainy, especially from October to May. The best time to visit is from June to September. If you prefer a quieter experience, aim for July, as students are on break and tourists are mostly concentrated in August. En mai, the famous Queima da Fitas is the major student event with serenades and festivities, drawing thousands of visitors.
How to get there
The nearest airport is in Porto, about a 1-hour drive away. You can reach the city by train, with two stations in Coimbra, as the rail network is efficient and significantly cheaper than driving. Buses are also available from major cities like Lisbon.
Ancient city with one of the first universities in Portugal. Very lively student life, international, welcoming, and festive.
Great memories.