Verona: Much more than a balcony and a love story
It is 6 p.m. on Piazza Bra, and the pink stone tiers are turning gold in the setting sun. In a few hours, 15,000 people will settle into this Roman amphitheater to listen to Aida under the stars.
Twenty centuries separate the gladiators from the tenors, but the walls have not shifted. Shakespeare set the impossible love of Romeo and Juliet here. Millions of travelers visit every year to photograph a balcony that did not exist before 1936. Yet, the real magic of this city lies elsewhere, in its quiet squares where locals live as if the visitors were not there.
A city for Northern Italy enthusiasts
Verona is for those who want to experience Italy without the intensity of Venice or Florence. The city is walkable in two or three days, and its heritage spans every era, from Roman ruins and medieval palaces to Renaissance churches. Wine lovers will be in their element. The hills of Valpolicella start just twenty minutes from the center and produce Amarone, one of Italy's most powerful reds. Think of the region's rolling vineyards as Italy's answer to Napa Valley, but with a history that predates the Roman Empire.
However, if you are looking for beaches or a wild nightlife scene, look elsewhere. Evenings in Verona consist of a spritz on a terrace and a late dinner. Families with young children will appreciate the relative calm and short distances between sites, though there are few activities specifically designed for them.
A classic Northern Italian budget
Expect to pay 100 to 180 EUR (about $108 to $195) per night for a good hotel in the historic center, or 60 to 90 EUR (about $65 to $98) in the outer neighborhoods. A full meal in a trattoria costs between 25 and 40 EUR (about $27 to $43) per person, wine included. Admission to the Arena is 10 EUR (about $11), or choose the Verona Card for 20 EUR (about $22), which grants access to all museums and public transport.
The Arena and Piazza Bra
The Arena di Verona dates back to 30 A.D. As the third-largest Roman amphitheater after the Colosseum and the one in Capua, it once held 30,000 spectators. An earthquake in 1117 destroyed the outer ring, leaving only a section known as the Ala. The interior remains intact and the acoustics are exceptional.
Since 1913, the Verona Opera Festival has scheduled performances there every summer, from June to September. The 2025 season marks the 102nd festival. If you are not attending a show, visit the interior during the day. Climb to the top tiers for the view of the city and imagine the gladiator combat that took place there two millennia ago.
Pro tip: Book your tickets online and arrive early in the morning to avoid lines. The stone tiers are hard, so rent a cushion for 2 to 5 EUR (about $2 to $5) from vendors at the entrance.
The medieval center and its squares
Piazza delle Erbe sits on the site of the ancient Roman forum. Today, a market livens up the square every morning under colorful umbrellas. The medieval and Renaissance facades surrounding it tell seven centuries of commercial history. This is where the locals have their aperitivo, not on the crowded terraces of Piazza Bra.
A short walk away, Piazza dei Signori has a more solemn atmosphere. A statue of Dante has presided over the center since 1865. The Arche Scaligere, the Gothic tombs of the family that ruled the city in the 14th century, stand in an adjacent alley. The Torre dei Lamberti, standing 84 meters tall, offers the best panorama of the tile roofs and the loops of the Adige River.
Juliet's House and the Shakespearean myth
Let us be honest: the Casa di Giulietta is a tourist attraction built from scratch. The balcony was added in 1936 to satisfy visitors. The 13th-century house belonged to the Dal Cappello family, whose name vaguely resembles Shakespeare's Capulets. The connection ends there.
That said, the enthusiasm for the myth is moving. Thousands of letters arrive every year addressed to Juliet, and volunteers answer them. The courtyard is free and perpetually crowded. Visiting the interior costs 6 EUR (about $6.50) and allows you to stand on the famous balcony. If you hate crowds, skip it or arrive at opening time.
Left bank of the Adige: Veronetta and the Giusti Gardens
The Veronetta neighborhood, on the other side of the river, remains overlooked by many tourists. The Ponte Pietra, built by the Romans in 100 B.C., leads there. German forces blew it up in 1945, but the locals reconstructed it stone by stone using blocks salvaged from the river.
The Giusti Gardens are worth the detour. This 16th-century Renaissance garden features century-old cypresses, boxwood labyrinths, and artificial grottos. Goethe strolled here during his travels in Italy. The belvedere at the top offers a sweeping view of the city. Admission costs 13 EUR (about $14), or 9 EUR (about $10) with the Verona Card. Go on a weekday to have the paths almost to yourself.
Pro tip: The view of the city at sunset from Castel San Pietro, accessible by funicular or a steep staircase, is worth the effort. Locals often picnic there on Sundays.
Where to eat and drink in Verona?
Risotto all'Amarone is the city's signature dish. The Vialone Nano rice, grown on the Po Plain, absorbs the powerful red wine of the Valpolicella to take on a purple hue. The taste is intense, slightly sweet, with notes of candied fruit. Expect to pay 12 to 20 EUR (about $13 to $22) depending on the restaurant.
Bigoli, thick pasta similar to plump spaghetti, is often served with a duck or anchovy ragu. Pastissada de caval, a horse meat stew simmered with wine and spices, dates back to the 5th century. This dish is polarizing, but the locals are proud of it. Osteria al Duca prepares it traditionally, served with creamy polenta.
For an aperitivo, grab a spot at Piazza delle Erbe around 6 p.m. A spritz costs 4 to 6 EUR (about $4 to $6.50) and often comes with cicchetti, which are small Venetian-style snacks. Gelateria Savoia, open since 1939, serves artisanal gelato in front of the Teatro Filarmonico.
Where to stay in Verona and the surrounding area?
The historic center remains the best choice for a first visit. You will be within walking distance of all the attractions and can enjoy the lively alleyways at night. Prices are high, especially during the opera festival or trade shows like Vinitaly in April.
The Cittadella neighborhood, between the train station and the center, is a good compromise. You can reach Piazza Bra in ten minutes on foot. Borgo Trento, on the other side of the Adige, suits travelers who prefer quiet. Its public gardens and residential feel offer a break from the tourist crowds.
For those on a tighter budget, the StraVagante Hostel offers decent rooms starting at 60 EUR (about $65). Hotel Milano & SPA, 50 meters from the Arena, features a rooftop with a hot tub and a view of the amphitheater. Book several weeks in advance for high season.
How to get to and around Verona?
Valerio Catullo Airport is 11 kilometers from the center. The Aerobus shuttle reaches Porta Nuova station in fifteen minutes for 7 EUR (about $7.50). From the US, you will likely connect through major hubs like Rome or Milan. Trains are often the most convenient way to travel: Verona is on the major Milan-Venice-Trieste line.
From Milan or Venice, the trip takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes by high-speed train. From Florence, it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes. Regional trains are cheaper but add about thirty minutes to the trip. Once you arrive, everything is walkable. The historic center is compact and pedestrian-friendly. City buses serve the outer neighborhoods if needed.
When to go?
Spring and autumn provide the best conditions, with mild temperatures, golden light on the pink stones, and moderate crowds. Summer attracts opera enthusiasts, but the heat can be intense and hotels fill up during the festival. Winter is pleasant for those who prefer quiet, though some sites reduce their hours.
While Verona is well known for being the setting of the love story between Romeo and Juliet, the city is also very beautiful. The medieval historic center is very well preserved. It is a real pleasure to wander through the cobblestone streets. The city is also lively and has plenty of cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops.