Verdun, the city that history is still telling
On November 10, 1920, a train departed from the Verdun station bound for Paris. On board was a nameless coffin: the Unknown Soldier, chosen from eight unidentified remains in the galleries of the Citadelle souterraine. Few realize he started his journey here, from a small Lorraine station designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1868.
Verdun carries these kinds of stories in every stone, but the city is not defined solely by its military past. The banks of the Meuse river, the dragées (sugar-coated almonds) produced here since 1783, and the vineyards of the Côtes de Meuse: life continues here, stubbornly, above the trenches.
A destination that leaves no one indifferent
Let's be direct. Verdun is a place of memory first and foremost. If the First World War holds no interest for you, a large part of the visit will likely miss the mark.
For history buffs, families looking to pass on lessons, and travelers in search of meaning, this is a significant stop. The Ossuaire de Douaumont, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2023, rarely leaves visitors unmoved.
Beyond the memorial sites, the forest that covers the former battlefields has been designated a "Forêt d'Exception" (Exceptional Forest). Cyclists take advantage of the EuroVélo 19 path along the Meuse. However, if you are looking for a lively nightlife scene, Verdun is not the right choice. It is a quiet, low-key town of 18,000 residents.
Families welcome, bundle up
The city center is compact and can be walked in half a day. The Citadelle souterraine offers a tour via a small car equipped with an augmented reality headset that fascinates children, but be careful: it is about 8°C (46°F) in the galleries, even in the middle of summer.
A very modest budget for the Grand Est region
Expect to pay 50 to 80 EUR (about $55 to $85) per night for a decent hotel, 12 to 20 EUR (about $13 to $22) for a meal, and between 5 and 10 EUR (about $5 to $11) per site entry. The guided bus tour of the battlefields costs 29 EUR (about $32) per adult.
The battlefields: the heart of the experience
300 days of combat in 1916. 300,000 French and German casualties on less than 20 km² (about 7.7 square miles). No book makes this reality as tangible as visiting the site itself.
The Ossuaire de Douaumont and the necropolis
The 137-meter-long building houses the remains of 130,000 unidentified French and German soldiers, laid to rest in 46 granite tombs. Through the exterior windows, you can see piles of bones. It is chilling.
In front of the ossuary, the nécropole nationale features 16,142 graves lined up on the slope. Access to the cloister is free, while the climb into the tower and the film are paid. It was here that Mitterrand and Kohl held hands in 1984, a gesture that became a symbol of Franco-German reconciliation.
Insider tip: arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid school groups. In July and August, spotlights at the top of the tower sweep across the battlefield after dark. It is striking.
The forts and the Tranchée des Baïonnettes
The Fort de Douaumont, the most powerful of the fortified belt, can be explored through its underground galleries. The Fort de Vaux tells the story of a desperate siege. Wear sturdy shoes, as the tunnels are damp and slippery.
The Tranchée des Baïonnettes displays rifles protruding from the ground, the remains of soldiers buried alive. Fleury-devant-Douaumont, captured and recaptured 16 times in two months, is one of nine "villages that died for France": one mayor, zero inhabitants. Stay on the marked paths, as unexploded munitions are still found in the ground.
The city of Verdun: beyond the war
The Mémorial de Verdun, renovated in 2016 for the centenary, is the best starting point to understand the battle. Its three levels combine period objects, survivor testimonies, and immersive recreations. In my opinion, it is the most well-executed museum on the site.
In town, the Centre Mondial de la Paix occupies the former 18th-century episcopal palace. The cathédrale Notre-Dame, one of the oldest in France, is worth the detour. Along the canal du Puty, the medieval towers of the Porte Chaussée reflect in the water.
The "Des Flammes à la Lumière" show
From June to the end of July, an outdoor sound and light show brings together hundreds of volunteers to recount the lives of soldiers and civilians during the Great War. Book your tickets in advance.
Where to eat and drink in Verdun?
The iconic specialty of Verdun is dragées. These sugar-coated almonds have been made here since 1783 by the maison Braquier, which you can tour with an audio guide. The tradition is said to date back to the coronation of Henri III.
As for dining, Lorraine cuisine dominates the menus: quiche lorraine, fuseaux lorrains (a local pork sausage), potée meusienne (a hearty vegetable and meat stew), and mirabelle plums served in tarts, brandy, or craft beer. The Côtes de Meuse, a small and lesser-known vineyard, produces surprising white and gray wines. Also, bring back some confiture de groseilles épépinées à la plume d'oie (redcurrant jam seeded with a goose quill), a specialty of Bar-le-Duc that Victor Hugo was famously fond of.
Le Clapier, right in the center, is a safe bet for traditional cuisine. On the battlefield, L'Abri des Pèlerins in Douaumont is the only restaurant in the heart of the memorial site.
Where to stay in and around Verdun?
The city center remains the best choice for a convenient stay. For a setting steeped in history, the Jardins du Mess, a four-star hotel located in the former officers' mess along the Meuse, features a spa and a gourmet restaurant.
30 minutes away, the château d'Hattonchâtel offers a spectacular setting with a view over the Woëvre plain. Nature lovers should head to the Lac de Madine, in the heart of the Lorraine Regional Natural Park.
How to get to and around Verdun?
The gare Meuse TGV station, built from local wood, is located 25 km (15 miles) away. It is 1 hour from Paris-Est and 1 hour and 10 minutes from Strasbourg. Shuttle buses timed with train arrivals connect the TGV station to Verdun in 30 minutes.
By car: 2 hours and 45 minutes from Paris via the A4, 1 hour and 20 minutes from Reims, and 1 hour and 10 minutes from Nancy. For the battlefields, a car is almost essential: the sites are scattered in the forest with no public transportation. Rental is available at the Meuse TGV station.
When to go?
The ideal period is from April to October. The "Des Flammes à la Lumière" show takes place from June to the end of July, and the November 11 ceremonies are a solemn moment. Winter is cold and some sites close from January to February.
Verdun is a pretty city where it is pleasant to walk along the Quai de Londres. It is also a city with a strong history linked to the war. I recommend visiting the citadel as well as the various forts around it, especially Fort Douaumont. The recently renovated museum is also very interesting.