Visiting Blois, between royal heritage and riverside calm
Perched along the banks of the Loire, Blois balances deep historical roots with a slow, riverside pace. This city in the Centre-Val de Loire region, once a seat of royal power, maintains a well-preserved historic core, a mix of museums, and a layout that encourages aimless wandering. It serves as an ideal base for travelers looking to explore the châteaux of the Loire while enjoying a town that feels manageable and human-scale.
An iconic château at the center of town
The château royal de Blois dominates the city from its hilltop perch. This monument tracks the evolution of French architecture, showcasing a blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Classical styles. As a former residence for several kings of France, it was the site of major historical turning points, including the 1588 assassination of the duc de Guise. A tour of the grounds includes the royal apartments, the Salle des États, and the famous façade featuring the monumental staircase.
A historic center with preserved charm
The old town of Blois is defined by its cobblestone alleys, half-timbered houses, and private mansions. As you walk through, you will see the cathédrale Saint-Louis, rebuilt in the 17th century, and the église Saint-Nicolas, a notable piece of Gothic architecture. The escalier Denis Papin, which features a rotating art installation on its steps, connects the lower town to the upper town and offers a clear view of the river.
Museums for every interest
Across from the château, the Maison de la Magie Robert-Houdin pays tribute to the famous illusionist who was born in Blois. This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe and offers interactive exhibits and live magic shows. For contemporary art, the Fondation du Doute, started by Ben Vautier, showcases works from the Fluxus movement. The muséum d'histoire naturelle provides a look at local flora and fauna.
A city oriented toward the Loire
The Loire River runs through Blois and defines much of the local lifestyle. The riverbanks are set up for walking, particularly at the port de la Creusille, which hosts a seasonal farmers market. You can take traditional boat trips to get out on the water and see the river landscapes. Cyclists can join the La Loire à Vélo trail, which runs through the city and connects to other regional sites.
Local flavors and gastronomy
Blois highlights local ingredients through its unique culinary specialties. The poularde 1550 au safran is a dish inspired by a Renaissance-era recipe, combining local poultry with Sologne saffron and regional white wine. For dessert, the Verger blésois pairs chocolate and apple, a nod to the city’s history as a chocolate producer and the surrounding orchards. The pavés de Blois, a candy made of nougatine and praline, are also a local favorite.
Where to eat?
- Le Castelet (Saint-Nicolas neighborhood): A family-run restaurant serving traditional French cuisine using local ingredients.
- La Creusille (riverbank): Located in a former stagecoach inn, this spot offers seasonal dishes with a view of the river.
- Les Banquettes Rouges (historic center): A casual bistro serving homemade dishes in a cozy setting.
- La Taverne (city center): A brasserie known for seafood and classic French staples.
Where to stay?
- Hôtel-Restaurant Le Monarque (city center): A 3-star option with good value and an on-site restaurant.
- Beelodge Hôtel Blois Centre (city center): A modern, comfortable hotel valued for its central location.
- Hôtel De France Et De Guise (historic center): A charming hotel near the château with classic room decor.
- First Inn Hotel Blois (outskirts): A budget-friendly option with free parking, a short drive from the center.
When to go?
The best time to visit Blois is between May and September, when the weather is mild and the days are long. In the summer, cultural events like the festival Des Lyres d'été bring the city to life. In October, Les Rendez-vous de l'Histoire draws historians, authors, and enthusiasts for a series of accessible public events.
How to get there?
Blois is easily reached from Paris. Expect about a 1.5-hour train ride from the Gare d'Austerlitz, with tickets starting around 15 € (about $16) if booked in advance. By car, the city is less than a 2-hour drive via the A10 motorway. Regional bus and train connections also link Blois to Tours, Orléans, or Vierzon.
Getting around
The center of Blois is compact enough to explore on foot. A bus network serves the various neighborhoods and outlying sites. Bike-share options are also available for those wanting to ride along the riverbanks or head out onto the regional cycling paths.
While I was a little disappointed by my visit to the Château de Blois, I really enjoyed walking around the city center, which is lively and bustling in the summer. You will find plenty of restaurants, cafes, bars, and lots of shops there. The painted stairs are truly impressive, as is the cathedral. I recommend eating along the banks of the Loire.