Forcalquier, the forgotten capital where four women became queens
Back in the 12th century, the four daughters of Count Raimond Bérenger V married into royalty. Éléonore, Marguerite, Sancie, and Béatrice went on to become queens of England, France, Germany, and Sicily. Since that golden age, Forcalquier has carried the nickname City of the Four Queens.
This high-perched town lost its status as the county capital long ago, but it retains the quiet confidence of a place that once mattered. Today, it is a town of 5,000 residents where you will find artists, herbalists, and Provence lovers looking to escape the crowds of the nearby Luberon.
Forcalquier: who is it for and why go?
Forcalquier appeals to those seeking a version of Provence without the tourist polish. You will not find packed buses or generic souvenir shops here. People come for the Monday market, one of the largest and oldest in the region, documented as far back as the 12th century. It is also a base for hiking the montagne de Lure, the secret younger sibling of Mont Ventoux. Fans of aromatic plants will find plenty to love, as the area is the historical cradle of Haute-Provence lavender.
If you are looking for nightlife or nearby beaches, look elsewhere. Forcalquier is a place for contemplation. Restaurants close early, often between 2:30 PM and 7:30 PM. A car is essential for exploring the surroundings. It is the price to pay for access to some of the clearest skies in France, a fact officially recognized by the nearby astronomical observatory.
A reasonable budget for Provence
Good news: Forcalquier remains accessible compared to the posh villages of the Luberon. Expect to pay 60 to 90 EUR ($65 to $98) per night for a guesthouse, and 15 to 25 EUR ($16 to $27) for a full meal with local wine. Most main attractions are free or inexpensive. The average daily budget is 80 to 120 EUR ($87 to $130) per person, including lodging.
The old town and its curiosities
Exploration begins at the place du Bourguet, the beating heart of the town. Every Monday morning, nearly 200 stalls set up shop selling goat cheese, lavender honey, olives, and herbs de Provence. On the first Monday of each month, the market grows even larger. In summer, the town provides free parking with horse-drawn carriage shuttles to manage the traffic.
Next, climb toward the citadelle via the Stations of the Cross path. At the top, the Notre-Dame-de-Provence chapel stands out with its octagonal shape and 19th-century neo-Byzantine style. Its 15-bell carillon rings every Sunday morning at 11:30 AM. The real draw, however, is the view: a 360-degree panorama of tiled rooftops, the snow-capped montagne de Lure in winter, and on clear days, the Prealps of Digne.
Friend's tip: arrive at the market before 9 AM if you want to avoid the rush. Locals do their shopping by 8 AM to get the best pick of the goods.
Medieval heritage and Provençal scents
The couvent des Cordeliers, founded in the 13th century by Franciscans, now houses the European University of Scents and Flavors. They host introductory perfumery workshops, and entry to the cloister is free. The cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Bourguet, dating back to 1155, features a notable 1629 organ and a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Do not miss the cimetière classé (classified cemetery) at the edge of town. This striking site, a historical monument since 1946, resembles a botanical labyrinth. A municipal gardener had the idea to trim yew trees into arches and green walls, with each opening revealing a grave. It is the largest concentration of shaped yew trees in France.
Nature and geological sites
Located 3 km north of town, the Rochers des Mourres form a lunar landscape. These 25-million-year-old limestone formations have been eroded into giant mushroom shapes. The word "mourre" means "head" in Provençal. The writer Pierre Magnan, who lived in Forcalquier in a tiny dovecote, frequently described this site in his detective novels.
In Mane, the Salagon Priory houses a departmental museum and six hectares of ethnobotanical gardens labeled as a "Remarkable Garden." More than 1,700 species grow there, including a medieval garden, medicinal plants, and a vegetable garden pre-dating the era of global exploration. For amateur astronomers, the Observatoire de Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire is 10 km away in an area with minimal light pollution.
Where to eat and drink in Forcalquier?
The local culinary scene focuses on short supply chains. La Campagne Saint-Lazare offers a menu centered on plant-based creations. Le Feuillée, the fine-dining spot of chef Louis Gachet, highlights local producers. For a simple meal, the terraces on the place du Bourguet offer a pleasant atmosphere. On Thursday afternoons, an organic market provides everything you need for goat cheese and honey picnics.
Where to sleep in Forcalquier and the surrounding area?
The town center has a few boutique hotels and guesthouses. Le Grand Hôtel, at the foot of the old town, offers rooms with views of the montagne de Lure. La Bastide Saint-Georges provides a more luxurious setting with a pool. Nearby villages like Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire and Mane are full of affordable gîtes. For a unique experience, les Bulles de Forcalquier offer nights in transparent domes facing the stars.
How to get to and around Forcalquier?
Forcalquier is not served by train. The nearest TGV station is Aix-en-Provence, a 1 hour and 10 minute drive away. ZOU buses provide service via Manosque in 2 hours and 30 minutes. Line 65 also connects to Marseille Saint-Charles in 2 hours. Marseille-Provence Airport is a 1 hour and 20 minute drive away. A car is essential for exploring the region. The A51 highway passes 10 km away with an exit at La Brillanne. Parking in the center is free.
When to go?
Spring and autumn offer the best balance of pleasant weather and quiet. To see the lavender in bloom, aim for the period between mid-June and mid-August. The bloom lasts longer in the Forcalquier region than in the rest of Provence, sometimes until August 15th on the Albion plateau. Summer can be very hot, with temperatures exceeding 95°F (35°C) in July. In winter, the montagne de Lure is covered in snow and the town returns to its quiet state, making it the ideal season for those seeking solitude.
For me, this small town in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is a must, the city is full of charm!
I loved wandering through the old cobblestone alleys, admiring the historical monuments (Notre-Dame-du-Bourguet Cathedral, Couvent des Cordeliers) and smelling the typical scents of the market products!
Plus, you can find a substantial selection of shops and some really good restaurants, dream spots to enhance your discovery!
Quick tip: hike up to the terrace of Notre-Dame-de-Provence. From up there, you will tower over the town and its hilly region.