Visit Salzburg, the baroque city that still echoes with the notes of Mozart
Three green-crowned hills rise above pastel-colored rooftops, while the Salzach river winds between facades decorated with wrought iron. You are in a city where every cobblestone alley seems to hold the echoes of a waltz, where the scent of praline chocolate mingles with that of old breweries, and where Italian baroque has settled right in the heart of the Alps.
Welcome to this fourth-largest city in Austria, a place that owes its fortune to salt and its fame to a child prodigy born in 1756.
A destination for romantics and music lovers, less so for those seeking solitude
The old town of this UNESCO World Heritage site is packed with visitors during high season. If you are looking for authenticity far from the crowds, prioritize October or February. But if you enjoy breathtaking baroque architecture, classical music, and a fairytale atmosphere in winter, you are in the right place.
Budget-wise, expect to spend around 80-100 EUR (about $85-110) per day if staying in a decent hotel. The good news is that the historic center is entirely walkable, and the Salzburg Card (starting at 34 EUR, or about $37, for 24 hours) includes transport and entry to the main sites. A car is only necessary if you plan on exploring the surrounding lakes or the Salzkammergut region.
Exploring Salzburg and its surroundings
Diving into the princely past
It is impossible to miss the Hohensalzburg Fortress, which has dominated the city since 1077. Accessible by funicular from Festungsgasse, it is one of the largest medieval fortresses in Europe. Inside, the armory and the Golden Hall are worth the detour, but the real treasure remains the panoramic view of the Alps and the old town rooftops.
At the foot of the fortress, the DomQuartier brings together five museums around the sumptuous Saint-Rupert Cathedral with its imposing dome. The complex offers a fascinating journey through European paintings, religious art, and princely apartments. Do not miss the panoramic terrace that overlooks the Domplatz.
The Princely Residence, where the prince-archbishops once held court, displays its baroque splendor in the heart of the city. Right next door, the Glockenspiel and its 35 bells play Mozart tunes three times a day.
Local tip: Visit the fortress early in the morning before the tour buses arrive, or in the late afternoon when the golden light sets the Alps ablaze.
On the trail of Mozart and the baroque
Getreidegasse, the main shopping street, is fascinating for its wrought-iron signs and vaulted passageways. At number 9, Mozart's Birthplace, now a museum, traces the composer's childhood through instruments, scores, and personal items. The atmosphere remains intimate despite the high visitor numbers.
On the other side of the river, the Mirabell Palace and its enchanting gardens offer a romantic setting with an unobstructed view of the fortress. Created in the 17th century, it is one of the jewels of the late Renaissance. The Marble Hall regularly hosts concerts in a lavish setting.
Saint Peter's Abbey, founded in 696, remains one of the oldest active monasteries in Europe. Its romantic cemetery, surrounded by arcades, inspires a timeless atmosphere. Not far from there, Nonnberg Abbey served as a backdrop for the famous musical The Sound of Music, filmed in the area in 1965.
Local tip: Stroll through Getreidegasse very early in the morning to enjoy the magic of the place without the crowds. The traditional shop signs are worth looking up for.
Escaping into the gardens and the heights
A few kilometers to the south, Hellbrunn Palace surprises with its ingenious 17th-century trick fountains. The prince-archbishop who had it built loved to prank his guests with surprise fountains triggered by an elaborate hydraulic system. The vast park also houses the Salzburg Zoo, which is great for families.
To escape the hustle and bustle, climb the Kapuzinerberg (640 meters), accessible from Steingasse or Linzergasse. The climb rewards you with a spectacular view of the baroque rooftops and the surrounding mountains. Less crowded than the fortress, it is the ideal spot to watch the sunset.
Cycling enthusiasts will appreciate the 180 kilometers of bike paths that crisscross the city and its surroundings, particularly along the Salzach with views of the Hohe Tauern.
Local tip: Book your ticket for Hellbrunn online to avoid lines, especially in summer. Plan on getting wet during the trick fountain tour.
Vibrating to the rhythm of festivals and living culture
From late July to the end of August, the city transforms into a giant stage during the Salzburg Festival, one of the most prestigious opera and classical music festivals in the world. Operas, concerts, and theatrical performances take over historic halls and public squares, with some shows broadcast for free on a giant screen at the Kapitelplatz.
In January, the Mozart Week attracts music lovers with concerts and recitals. In October, the Jazz & The City festival fills churches and wine cellars with more contemporary sounds. As for Hangar-7, this futuristic space near the airport houses the Red Bull collection of historic aircraft and the Michelin-starred restaurant Ikarus.
Local tip: Even without a ticket for the festival, attend the free concerts at Kapitelplatz or enjoy the open rehearsals in certain venues. The atmosphere is worth the trip.
Where to eat and drink in Salzburg?
Salzburg's gastronomy marries alpine tradition with Bavarian and Italian influences. The undisputed star is the Salzburger Nockerl, a sweet soufflé representing the three hills of the city (Mönchsberg, Kapuzinerberg, Gaisberg). Served piping hot and dusted with powdered sugar, this airy dessert is enjoyed in historic addresses like Bärenwirt (dating back to 1663) or St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, considered one of the oldest restaurants in Central Europe.
Another gourmet symbol is the Mozartkugel, those praline, marzipan, and chocolate bites created in 1890. To taste the original handmade version, head to Café Konditorei Fürst. For savory options, try the Schnitzel (breaded cutlet) or Knödel (dumplings) accompanied by a local Stiegl beer, brewed since 1492.
The Augustiner Bräu, Austria's largest beer garden, offers an authentic experience with its long, communal wooden tables under the chestnut trees. For contemporary fine dining, Restaurant Esszimmer or Ikarus at Hangar-7 cater to discerning palates.
Where to sleep in and around Salzburg?
To be at the heart of the action, prioritize the left bank of the Salzach in the old town neighborhood (Altstadt). You will be steps away from Getreidegasse and the main monuments. Be aware, however, that prices climb and it can be noisy in the evening.
The right bank, on the New Town side near the Mirabell gardens and Linzergasse, offers a good compromise: quieter while remaining central. The Salzburg-Aigen neighborhood, slightly off-center, appeals to travelers looking for tranquility and greenery.
Regarding accommodation, the range goes from baroque boutique hotels like the Goldener Hirsch to design establishments like artHotel Blaue Gans. Tight budgets will find family-run guesthouses or youth hostels in the immediate vicinity of the center. Booking several months in advance is essential during the Salzburg Festival in summer and the Christmas markets in December.
How to get there and get around Salzburg?
W. A. Mozart Airport offers direct flights from Paris (about 1 hour 45 minutes of flight time). Expect to pay 4 EUR (about $4.50) to reach the center by bus (line 2 or 27) in 20 minutes, or 20-25 EUR (about $22-27) by taxi. From Vienna, the direct train takes 2 hours 30 minutes, and from Munich only 1 hour 30 minutes. Buses also connect to Innsbruck, Graz, and Linz.
Once there, the compact historic center is best explored on foot. The Obusse urban bus network efficiently serves peripheral neighborhoods and sites like Hellbrunn. The Salzburg Card includes unlimited public transport and remains the most economical option for visitors.
Parking a car in the center is a challenge and expensive (15-20 EUR, or about $16-22, per day). Contipark parking lots on the outskirts with shuttle service to the center are more advantageous. Biking is an excellent alternative thanks to the numerous bike paths along the Salzach.
When to go?
Each season offers its own charms. Summer (July-August) attracts crowds for the music festival, but the heat can be heavy and prices skyrocket. Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) combine pleasant weather, moderate crowds, and vibrant gardens.
Winter transforms the city into a storybook setting with its five Christmas markets spread throughout the historic center from November 20 to January 6, including the spectacular Christkindlmarkt on the Domplatz. The snow-capped Alps in the background and the festive atmosphere more than compensate for the cold. Avoid: mid-August during the peak tourist period of the festival, unless you came specifically for the concerts.
I loved the very romantic atmosphere of the streets in Salzburg, where the architecture is so well preserved. Personally, I would recommend visiting the Mozart Geburtshaus (Mozart's birthplace). The tour is very interesting, and I find it fascinating to step into the private life of a historical figure as famous as he is :)