Visiting Aizuwakamatsu, a stronghold of feudal Japan
Editorial note, published 04/23/2025
Tucked into the heart of Fukushima prefecture, Aizuwakamatsu is defined by its samurai heritage, mountain landscapes, and quiet pace. If you want to dive into Japanese history away from the typical tourist track, this city is a solid choice.
Historical legacy shaped by samurai
Aizuwakamatsu is often called the city of the samurai, and for good reason. It served as a major military and political hub during the Edo period. Tsuruga Castle, a faithful reconstruction, stands in the center of town. The castle is unique in Japan for its red roof tiles, and its museum provides a clear look at local history.
Nearby, the Sazaedo Temple is notable for its double-helix wooden architecture, which allows visitors to climb up and down without ever crossing paths. This 18th-century structure is a rare example of innovative Buddhist design.
Nature and spirituality at the foot of Mount Iimori
Mount Iimori is a memorial site for the Byakkotai, a group of young samurai who took their own lives after mistakenly believing their castle had fallen. The site offers a panoramic view of the city and is home to several commemorative monuments.
A short drive away, Lake Inawashiro, nicknamed the mirror sky lake, is the fourth largest lake in Japan. It offers expansive views, especially in winter when migratory swans gather there.
Crafts and living traditions
Aizuwakamatsu is known for its craftsmanship, particularly Aizu lacquerware, which is used for everyday items decorated with traditional motifs. The Aizu Lacquerware Museum features exhibits and workshops to explore this ancient art.
The Nanukamachi district is ideal for strolling between craft shops, retro cafes, and former samurai residences. It is a place where the past and present coexist.
Festivals and cultural events
Every spring, the Tsuruga Castle cherry blossom festival draws crowds to view the sakura blooming around the castle. In the fall, the Aizu Festival celebrates the region's samurai history with period-costume parades and historical reenactments.
Gastronomy rooted in tradition
The food in Aizuwakamatsu reflects its cultural heritage and mountain environment. Local specialties include:
- Basashi: Raw horse meat, often served with a spicy miso sauce. This delicacy is a regional favorite.
- Kozuyu: A clear soup made with vegetables and dried scallops, traditionally served during ceremonies.
- Kitakata ramen: Thick noodles served in a soy sauce broth, topped with pork and bamboo shoots. This dish hails from the neighboring city of Kitakata but is a staple here.
- Aizu sake: The region is famous for its sake breweries, which produce fine, aromatic varieties thanks to high-quality mountain water.
Where to eat?
- Mitsutaya (Nanukamachi): A family-run restaurant serving traditional dishes like kozuyu and wappa-meshi.
- Tsuru Ga Aizu Honten (near Aizuwakamatsu Station): Specializes in basashi and offers a selection of local sakes.
- Yakitori no Oogiya Aizu Monden Ten (Monden): A popular izakaya for grilled skewers and a casual atmosphere.
Where to stay?
- Onyado Toho (Higashiyama Onsen): This traditional ryokan sits on the heights of the hot spring resort, offering hot baths with a panoramic view of the city. It also provides services like karaoke and free shuttles.
- Kutsurogijuku Chiyotaki (Higashiyama Onsen): This elegant property features open-air baths with valley views, spacious Japanese-style rooms, and refined kaiseki cuisine.
- Toyoko Inn Aizuwakamatsu Ekimae (Byakko-machi): Located a two-minute walk from the station, this budget hotel offers functional rooms, a free breakfast buffet, and great accessibility for exploring the city.
- Hotel Route-Inn Aizuwakamatsu (Kōya-machi): This modern hotel offers comfortable rooms, a public bath, and a varied breakfast buffet. It is convenient for travelers with a car due to the free parking.
When to go?
Spring (April-May) is best for cherry blossoms, especially around Tsuruga Castle. Autumn (October-November) offers vibrant foliage and comfortable temperatures. The Aizu Festival in September is also a highlight for experiencing local culture.
How to get there?
From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Kōriyama (about 1 hour 20 minutes), then a local train to Aizuwakamatsu (about 1 hour 30 minutes). The total trip costs about 7,000 JPY (about $45). Long-distance buses also run from Tokyo to Aizuwakamatsu in about 4 hours 30 minutes.
How to get around?
The city has a bus network covering the main tourist sites. Renting a bicycle is also a solid option for exploring the area at your own pace.
Aizuwakamatsu is deeply rooted in its history. This is where the loyalists of the shogunate and defenders of the old way of life fought against the new imperial government. It is a pleasant city to visit, with a very beautiful castle. You can buy a daily bus pass at the station. Very convenient for getting from one site to the next!