Ōtsu, the forgotten capital beside Japan's largest lake
For five years, between 667 and 672, this city served as the capital of Japan. Then the emperor moved, and the world moved on. Today, Ōtsu exists in the shadow of Kyoto, just a nine-minute train ride away. Lake Biwa, the country's largest at 258 square miles, stretches out before it like an inland sea. The ancient temples scattered across the surrounding mountains once trained the greatest masters of Japanese Buddhism, yet most tourists pass through without a second glance.
An escape for those who avoid the crowds
If you are hunting for the postcard version of Japan, with packed streets and temples teeming with selfie sticks, keep moving. Ōtsu is for travelers who prefer quiet contemplation over the bustle. Fans of Buddhist architecture will find World Heritage sites here in a silence that is impossible to replicate in Kyoto. Literature enthusiasts can walk in the footsteps of Murasaki Shikibu, who conceived the world's first novel in a temple overlooking the lake.
The city center itself lacks a certain aesthetic charm. Honest guidebooks admit that 1970s urban planning left its mark. However, you do not come here for the concrete. You come for Mount Hiei and its monasteries lost in the mist, for the onsen facing the water, and for that rare feeling of stepping off the tourist circuit while remaining within arm's reach of Kyoto.
A softer budget compared to Kyoto
Prices remain reasonable. Expect to spend 15 to 25 euros ($16 to $27) per day on sightseeing, and 30 to 50 euros ($32 to $54) for a ryokan with an onsen in Ogoto. A lunch at a local restaurant costs between 1,000 and 2,000 yen ($7 to $13). Transport from Kyoto runs about 200 yen ($1.35).
Mount Hiei: The cradle of Japanese Buddhism
The Enryaku-ji temple has dominated this region since 788. Founded by the monk Saicho, it became the headquarters of the Tendai sect and schooled generations of monks who went on to create their own schools of thought. Japanese Zen, Pure Land Buddhism, and the Nichiren sect all trace their roots here. At its peak, the complex boasted 3,000 buildings and an army of warrior-monks so powerful that lord Oda Nobunaga had to raze it in 1571.
The current structures, rebuilt by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, span 4,200 acres divided into three zones: To-do, Sai-to, and Yokawa. The Konpon Chu-do houses a flame that has burned for 1,200 years, replenished daily. The view of Lake Biwa from the terraces is worth the trip alone. Admission is 1,000 yen ($6.70) for all three zones.
Insider tip: Take the Sakamoto Cable, the longest funicular in Japan, from the Sakamoto neighborhood at the foot of the mountain. The 11-minute ride offers spectacular views, especially in autumn.
Ishiyama-dera: Where the world's first novel was born
In August 1004, the court lady Murasaki Shikibu isolated herself for seven days in this temple. One full-moon night, while gazing at the lake, she imagined the plot of The Tale of Genji. Considered the first novel in history, it describes Heian-era aristocratic life with a psychological depth that still fascinates readers today.
The temple itself rests on a dramatic geological formation, a mass of wollastonite, a white stone classified as a natural monument. The main hall and the two-story pagoda are national treasures. A recreation of the "Genji room" shows Murasaki Shikibu at work. Exhibitions about the novel take place in the spring and autumn at the Hojoden museum.
The site is part of the 33-temple Kannon pilgrimage in the Kansai region. The artist Hiroshige immortalized the autumn moon view from Ishiyama-dera in his Eight Views of Omi series.
Lake Biwa: Activities and panoramas
Lake Biwa has existed for four million years. Its biodiversity includes endemic species found nowhere else, notably the nigorobuna, a crucian carp used to prepare funazushi. Cruises depart from the Ōtsu port aboard the Michigan, a paddle-wheel boat with an American design, a twin to a ship in Lansing, which is a sister city to Ōtsu.
For an aerial perspective, the Biwako Valley resort is the place to go. The fastest ropeway in Japan whisks you to an altitude of 3,600 feet in five minutes. The Biwako Terrace, a panoramic deck opened in 2016, offers a 360-degree view of the lake and surrounding mountains. On a clear day, you can see the skyscrapers of Osaka to the west. In winter, nine ski runs welcome Kyoto locals for day trips.
Insider tip: The ropeway costs about 3,500 yen ($23.50) round-trip. Bring a jacket, as the temperature at the summit is 5 to 7 degrees Celsius (9 to 13 degrees Fahrenheit) cooler than at the base.
Ogoto Onsen: Hot springs facing the lake
Twenty minutes from Kyoto by train, Ogoto Onsen offers what its neighbor cannot: thermal baths with a view of Lake Biwa. The resort area features nine traditional ryokans, some with private balconies. The waters, discovered 1,200 years ago by the monk Saicho, are famous for their skin-softening properties.
Establishments offer packages that include a kaiseki dinner prepared with local ingredients. The Yumotokan and the Biwako Ryokusuitei are among the most popular addresses. Expect to pay between 20,000 and 40,000 yen ($135 to $270) per person for a night including meals.
Where to eat and drink in Ōtsu?
The local specialty is divisive: funazushi. This fermented sushi, the ancestor of all sushi, cures for up to three years in rice and salt. The potent aroma can turn off beginners, but connoisseurs consider it a refined delicacy. The Koshū restaurant, near the Ishiyama-dera temple, offers an introduction with English explanations.
Omi beef is the other culinary pride. This wagyu, one of the three most renowned in Japan, melts in the mouth thanks to exceptional marbling. Matsukiya, an establishment founded in 1870, remains the gold standard. The restaurant utilizes low-temperature aging to intensify the flavors. Expect to pay 5,000 to 15,000 yen ($33 to $100) for a meal.
Lake fish also deserve attention: ayu, Biwa salmon, and local trout appear on menus in traditional restaurants. Shiga sake, brewed with pure mountain water, is the ideal pairing.
Where to sleep in Ōtsu and the surrounding area?
Your choice depends on your priorities. For a ryokan experience with an onsen, Ogoto Onsen is the clear winner. The establishments offer free shuttles from the JR Ogoto Onsen station, 20 minutes from Kyoto. Prices range from 15,000 yen ($100) for budget plans to over 50,000 yen ($335) for suites with private baths.
For a tighter budget or a practical base, the business hotels around the JR Ōtsu station are perfect. The Lake Biwa Otsu Prince Hotel combines modern comfort with a spectacular view of the lake. Some travelers prefer to stay in Kyoto and visit Ōtsu as a day trip, as the journey takes only nine minutes.
How to get to and around Ōtsu?
From Kyoto, the JR Tokaido line connects the two stations in 9 minutes for 200 yen ($1.35). The Japan Rail Pass covers this route. The JR Kosei line serves the west bank of the lake, including Ogoto Onsen station and Shiga for the Biwako Valley.
From Osaka, allow about 50 minutes via Kyoto. From Kansai airport, the Haruka limited express train reaches Ōtsu in 80 minutes. Travelers arriving from Tokyo should take the shinkansen to Kyoto and then transfer to the local line.
Once there, the Keihan network serves the temples and sites along the lake. Walking remains the best way to explore each zone. For Mount Hiei, the Hieizan Drive bus or the Sakamoto Cable funicular are the primary options. Renting a bike is a great way to ride along the lake shores.
When to go?
Spring attracts Japanese crowds for the cherry blossoms along the Lake Biwa Canal. Autumn, from mid-November to early December, sets the Mount Hiei maples ablaze in fiery tones. Summer remains hot and humid, but it allows for swimming and water sports on the lake.
Winter transforms the Biwako Valley into a ski resort, offering a rare combination: sliding on snow while contemplating an immense lake below. The Ogoto onsens take on a new appeal then, especially after a day on the slopes.
Easily accessible from Kyoto, this pretty city offers a little more peace and quiet. The first thing to do is enjoy Lake Biwa, a place that truly lives up to its poetic reputation. The city center is not very lively, which is a shame. On the other hand, the temples are very beautiful. I have a soft spot for Gichu-Ji, with its green garden and the graves of legendary samurai (including the famous Tomoe Gozen, who is my profile picture).