Visiting San Pedro de Atacama, in the heart of the Chilean desert
San Pedro de Atacama, sitting at an elevation of 7,874 feet in northern Chile, is an oasis village known for its stark desert landscapes and deep cultural roots. Surrounded by jagged rock formations, salt flats, and some of the clearest skies on the planet, it is a primary destination for those interested in geology and stargazing.
Lunar landscapes and mysterious valleys
Just a few miles outside the village, the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) features an arid terrain shaped by wind and water erosion that looks like the surface of another planet. It is a popular spot at sunset, when the light shifts across the craggy horizon.
The Valle de Marte (Mars Valley), also known as Death Valley, offers similarly striking views, defined by massive sand dunes and steep, narrow canyons.
Geysers and thermal springs
About 55 miles north of town, the Geysers del Tatio make up one of the largest geothermal fields in the world. Visitors head out before sunrise to watch the steam columns rise, creating a surreal scene in the high-altitude cold. After the early morning excursion, many stop at the Thermes de Puritama, a series of natural hot springs tucked into a canyon floor, which are ideal for warming up.
Archaeological and cultural heritage
San Pedro preserves heavy ties to ancient civilizations. The Pukará de Quitor, a pre-Columbian fortress located 2.5 miles from the center, showcases the engineering skill of the Atacameño people. In the village, the église de San Pedro, built in the 17th century using adobe, is a prime example of Andean colonial architecture. The Musée archéologique R.P. Gustavo Le Paige displays artifacts from local cultures, including remarkably well-preserved mummies.
A premier sky for astronomy
The Atacama Desert is home to some of the cleanest, most transparent skies on Earth. Many local tour companies offer tours astronomiques where you can view stars and galaxies through high-powered telescopes. These sessions, led by specialized guides, provide an unobstructed look at the night sky, much like a professional observatory experience.
Andean flavors
The food in San Pedro de Atacama leans heavily on Andean staples like quinoa, corn, and llama meat. Patasca, a hearty stew of meat and potatoes, is a local favorite. Empanadas, often stuffed with goat cheese or spiced meat, are a common go-to snack. To drink, a pisco sour is the standard Chilean cocktail and pairs well with these traditional dishes.
Where to eat?
- Adobe (downtown): A flagship restaurant that blends Andean ingredients with modern techniques, set in a cozy space with a central fireplace.
- La Franchutería (downtown): An artisanal bakery serving traditional breads and high-quality sandwiches.
- Baltinache (downtown): A restaurant focused on regional dishes updated with fresh local products.
- Heladería Babalú (downtown): A must-visit stop for ice cream featuring local flavors like chañar or rica-rica.
Where to stay?
- Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa (outskirts): A high-end property with desert views and a full-service spa.
- Hostal Pueblo de Tierra (downtown): A mid-range option with a pool and comfortable rooms.
- La Casa de Don Tomás (downtown): A solid value-oriented choice that balances cost and comfort.
- Hostal Sonchek (downtown): A simple, welcoming hostel for budget-conscious travelers.
When to go?
The climate is arid with sunny days year-round. Visiting between April and November is best to avoid the heaviest summer crowds. If you visit in September, you can catch the 18 de Septiembre festivities, Chile's independence celebration, which feature local parades and traditional events.
Getting there
Travelers generally fly into Calama, the closest city with an airport. Regular flights connect Calama to Santiago in about 2 hours. From the airport, buses and private shuttles make the 90-minute trip to San Pedro for 10,000 to 15,000 CLP (about $10-$16).
Getting around
The village itself is very walkable. For excursions into the surrounding desert, most travelers use shuttles provided by local tour agencies or rent bicycles to reach the nearby sites.
I did not find much of interest in the town of San Pedro itself. You can go out easily enough to grab a drink or get something to eat, but the prices are pretty steep. On the other hand, the excursions available from this town are numerous, varied, and incredible: Salar de Atacama, Moon Valley, Death Valley, El Tatio geysers, volcanoes... It is impossible to get bored!
Plan on a few days before hitting the more athletic excursions, just to get used to the altitude.