Visiting Ilha do Mel
Ilha do Mel, or Honey Island, sits off the southern coast of Brazil in the state of Paraná, right at the mouth of Paranaguá Bay. This small island stretches about 22 miles in length and is completely car-free. Life here centers around a few small villages, the largest being Encantadas and Nova Brasilia, both of which serve as arrival points for the boat crossing from the mainland. Human history here runs deep, with archaeological evidence of occupation dating back over 6,000 years. By the 16th century, Portuguese colonists arrived to establish sugar cane plantations, a legacy that may have inspired the island's name. Ilha do Mel is narrow, measuring only a few hundred meters across at most, with a central isthmus that narrows to barely 30 meters. This thin strip of land actually floods at high tide. The northern section of the island is protected as a nature reserve and is off-limits to visitors.
Must-see spots on Ilha do Mel
Beyond the slow pace and rugged nature, Ilha do Mel has a few highlights you should not miss. You will find Encantadas in the south, which offers more amenities and one of the island's best beaches, Praia das Fora. This beach is home to a natural sea cave, the Grotto of the Enchanted, which is accessible at low tide. Further north, make the trek to the Phare des Conques (Conch Lighthouse), built in 1872. Climbing its 140-foot structure rewards you with a panoramic view of the entire island.
Time your visit to low tide to reach the Fort de Notre Dame des Plaisirs. Portuguese colonists began building this massive fortress in the 16th century to defend the island. Walk the ramparts to see the original cannons still in place. The site also features remnants of trenches dating back to the Second World War.
Stunning beaches in southern Brazil
Ilha do Mel features a variety of expansive, beautiful beaches. Do not miss Praia do Farol, which hugs the phare des Conques and is a reliable spot for surfing. For something quieter, head to Praia da Fortaleza, a two-mile stretch of white sand backed by wild, dense vegetation. If you are looking for a social scene, Praia de Encantadas is the local hub for activities.
To take in the best coastal views, walk the pedestrian path that connects Encantadas and Nova Brasilia.
When to go
The best time to visit this part of Brazil is during the austral winter, between May and August. You will find drier weather and mild, comfortable temperatures.
How to get there
Start your journey in Curitiba, where you can catch a bus to either Paranaguá or Pontal do Sul to catch a boat to the island. Ponto do Sol is the most efficient departure point, as boat crossings are more frequent and shorter than from other locations. You can choose to land at either Encantadas or Nova Brasilia.
To start, to get to Ilha do Mel, you will arrive at either Encantadas (my case) or Nova Brasília coming from Pontal do Sul or Paranagua (my case again). Access is by boat in any case. It is a wonderful, pedestrian only island where life is good. The beaches, the lighthouse, the cave, and the fortress are the things to do and see, but the best part is just to stay and breathe far from big cities and maybe go for a swim. You definitely need to get informed before going because only 5,000 tourists are allowed to visit the island each year. Also, to get to Paranagua or Pontal do Sul, buses from Curitiba go there every day, or you can hitchhike, but that is a bit more dangerous and adventurous, though that is another story :)