Visiting Brasilia
Brasilia is a city like no other, built from scratch in just a few years to serve as Brazil's capital. Its layout follows the master plan designed by Lucio Costa under the direction of then-president Juscelino Kubitschek. The idea to build a new capital took hold in the 1950s, a time when political power was fiercely contested between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. At the time, the country's wealth was heavily concentrated along the coast. Today, the city's unique history and stature have earned its center a spot as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
A vision of modernism
When discussing Brasilia, the name Oscar Niemeyer, a celebrated architect and disciple of Le Corbusier, always comes to the forefront. He designed many of the city's most recognizable monuments. Among them is the Cathedral of Brasilia, which surprises visitors with its clean design that resembles a crown of thorns or hands joined toward the sky, depending on your angle. The entrance is guarded by four massive statues of the Evangelists Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John.
The seats of the Brazilian federal government are equally imposing. The National Congress of Brazil, located on the Praça dos Três Poderes (Three Powers Square), consists of two 100-meter-tall twin towers flanked by two domes that house the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies. Another major work by Oscar Niemeyer is the presidential palace. The Palácio da Alvorada is a sprawling glass structure framed by elegant white arches, with lush gardens and water features designed by Roberto Burle Marx.
The Monumental Axis
The city was designed during the dawn of the car culture, so everything was built to accommodate driving. Shaped like an airplane, the city is organized around a central artery: the Monumental Axis, which is 250 meters wide. For a bird's-eye view of this massive boulevard, head to the observation deck of the TV Tower (Torre de TV) for panoramic vistas of the city.
Make sure to visit the Dom Bosco Sanctuary to see its deep blue stained glass. Nature lovers will find plenty of space, as Brasilia contains some of the largest urban green areas in the world, such as the 420-hectare Parque da Cidade. Finally, Brasilia sits along the edge of the Paranoá Lake, a massive reservoir that is perfect for scenic walks or a refreshing dip.
When to go
Temperatures in Brasilia are comfortable year-round, making it a great destination for a trip at any time.
How to get there
Many airlines fly into Brasilia, though most flights from the U.S. will require one or more layovers.
Getting around
Public transit options are limited, as the bus lines are sparse and the metro system is not extensive enough to cover the city's vast footprint. Even today, the most practical way to get around Brasilia is by car.
Brasilia, the (real) capital of Brazil, left me with a rather mixed impression despite its interesting urban planning. I appreciated Niemeyer's futuristic architecture, especially the cathedral and the National Congress, which are truly unique. However, the city cruelly lacks life in its streets. Everything is very spread out and designed for cars, which makes getting around on foot not very pleasant. The general atmosphere is quite cold and impersonal, far from the human warmth I felt in other Brazilian cities. Green spaces are present but not very lively. In the end, Brasilia seemed more administrative than touristy to me.