Visiting Chicago
As the third-largest megalopolis in the United States, set along the shores of Lake Michigan in the Midwest, monumental Chicago has long left behind its associations with Al Capone and Prohibition. After downtown was leveled by the great fire of 1871, the city turned into a genuine architectural laboratory that drew millions of European immigrants, mostly from Scandinavia, chasing the American dream. Praised for its grit and work ethic, Chicago spent decades serving as the powerhouse of steel mills and stockyards for the eastern half of the country. Famous for its blues music, energetic arts scene, and thousands of hot dog stands, locals will tell you straight up: the real America is right here. Its motto, Urbs in Horto, meaning city in a garden, points to a surprisingly pleasant quality of life. You might even find yourself biting into a deep dish pizza that stands 6 cm thick while watching a game featuring the legendary Bulls.
Four distinct seasons shape the year here, bringing cold winters that stop short of brutal and warm summers cooled by lake breezes.
The Loop, an expansive and surprising business district with hidden charms
Framed by the Chicago River, The Loop packs in most of the city's iconic skyscrapers like the Willis Tower and the John Hancock Center, alongside the building that houses the Tribune, plus museums and pocket parks. Fascinating and unpredictable, street art sits side by side with outdoor sculptures by masters like Chagall, Miró, and Picasso.
Discovering remarkable architecture
If you have the time, sign up for one of the 85 guided tours offered by the Chicago Architecture Center, priced at $35 for an individual ticket which includes museum admission. You will learn to pick out the different schools of modern urban planning and see how the modernist style became the gold standard. Another great option is the Chicago's First Lady Cruises tour, which gives you a dramatic water-level perspective of the towering canyon of buildings. For a more active spin on it, try a kayak tour.
The Chicago Architecture Center, charging $15 for admission ($10 for students, free for kids 5 and under), also features a detailed scale model of the entire city. For a quick fifteen-minute architectural primer, hop on the Brown Line train heading south from the Merchandise Mart station. True crime fans won't want to miss the Untouchable Gangster tour, complete with costumed guides who really commit to the bit.
Start with the stunning Chicago Cultural Center, a former neoclassical library turned exhibition space where you can marvel at marble staircases, a Tiffany glass dome, and pastel mosaics. On weekdays, they host free concerts. Next, head up to the Willis Tower, formerly known as the Sears Tower, standing 442 metres tall for a sweeping view over The Loop. Its Skydeck on the 103rd floor features exhibits on the city's history and landmarks, and if you're brave enough, you can step out onto The Ledge, a glass balcony box suspended over the street. Another standout viewpoint is the John Hancock Center 360° Chicago Observatory. A free alternative is the 9th floor of the Harold Washington Public Library. Nearby, check out the Auditorium Building and the Carsons Camp Store, housed inside the gorgeous Sullivan Center, formerly the Carson Pirie Scott store.
Windy City, a destination with endless possibilities
Art and culture
Head next to Millennium Park, home to famous works like Anish Kapoor's reflective Cloud Gate, Alexander Calder's scarlet Flamingo, and Jaume Plensa's striking Crown Fountain. The park flows directly into the green expanse of Grant Park, which houses the world-class Art Institute. Impressionist and post-impressionist art lovers will find plenty to explore here.
For a change of pace, wander the campus of the University of Chicago, where perhaps the most famous alum is Barack Obama. The neo-Gothic stone buildings, Frank Lloyd Wright's Robie House, and the quiet academic vibe offer a peaceful retreat.
Shopping
Shoppers will want to make a beeline for the Magnificent Mile, lined with major American flagship stores. The busiest spot around is the Water Tower Place mall. Just nearby, take a look at the elegant Wrigley Building, whose design was inspired by the Giralda tower of the Seville Cathedral. At night, floodlit against the dark, it looks truly magnificent.
Relaxation
If you are traveling with kids, the John G. Shedd Aquarium is well worth a visit, while free alternatives include the Lincoln Park Zoo and the Lincoln Park Conservatory.
When the weather warms up, you can hit one of the city's 34 public beaches, accessible from Navy Pier. Sunbathing at Oak Street Beach with the skyline towering right behind you makes for a surreal experience. If you have time, rent a bike and ride along the Lakefront Trail to completely escape the urban grid for a while.
When to go?
The best time to visit Chicago is during the fall.
How to get there?
Air Canada, Air France, American Airlines, Delta Airlines, Icelandair, Lufthansa, and United Airlines operate daily direct flights from Paris to Chicago.
Getting around
When you touch down at O'Hare airport, hop on the Blue Line train at Terminal 3 for a 45-minute ride. Get off at Clark for downtown, or Chicago station if you are heading toward the Near North Side. You can also catch the Airport Express shuttle for around $30 or grab a taxi for roughly $50 depending on traffic.
Once you are in The Loop, exploring on foot is best, though you can also ride the elevated train known as the L Train. Because the city is so spread out, transit times can run long.
I discovered the Windy City during a weekend trip while I was on a university exchange program in Columbus, Ohio. Since people talk much less about Chicago than other North American megacities, I did not have high expectations for this visit. In the end, I was totally blown away (even more than when I first discovered New York a few years later). An impressive skyline, monumental buildings in terms of both volume and height, Lake Michigan, the Chicago River so wonderfully integrated into the city's modern urban planning... We spent 2 days walking non-stop around the city without ever getting bored. We ate well (okay, for good food, you have to be willing to drop a few dollars) and we had a great time partying.
In short, my best memory of that first quarter on Yankee soil!