Nairobi at a glance
The capital of Kenya is often viewed merely as a transit point for safari-goers. It is true that most travelers head out from here to track lions, buffalo, rhinos, and leopards on organized excursions. However, bypassing the city itself is a mistake.
Up close with wildlife
You do not need to book a remote safari to experience nature in Nairobi. The Nairobi National Park, located less than 10 kilometers from the city center, spans 120 square kilometers of wilderness where you can spot zebras, wildebeest, and even hippos. The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is another essential stop. Founded in 1977 to honor a warden and his wife, the facility is known for its bottle-fed elephant calves. Do not miss the Giraffe Center, which focuses on the conservation of the Rothschild giraffe. You can feed and pet these long-necked creatures from a raised platform. Beyond the wildlife, the Uhuru and Hell's Gate parks offer serious trekking and hiking opportunities in rugged terrain.
Between traditions...
Downtown Nairobi has enough depth to keep you busy for several days. To get a sense of Kenyan culture, head to the Maasai Market. You will need to track its location as the market rotates its site throughout the week. It is the place to practice your bargaining skills for local crafts like sculptures, jewelry, and textiles. If you want to dive deeper into the customs of indigenous tribes, visit the Bomas of Kenya. This cultural center features full-scale replicas of traditional homesteads representing a dozen local tribes. You can also catch a daily performance featuring around fifty singers and dancers.
...and modernity
Nairobi is a thoroughly modern city and a key political, financial, and academic hub in Africa. To see this side of the capital, visit the Kenyatta International Convention Centre. This glass-and-steel landmark houses the Senate, a shopping gallery, an amphitheater, and a restaurant perched in a 105-meter tower. It is a prime spot for lunch with a view.
When it comes to food, look for nyama choma (grilled meat), ugali (a dense cornmeal porridge), or karango (a goat or mutton stew).
When to go
You can visit Nairobi year-round thanks to its mild climate. Temperatures rarely exceed 80-82 degrees Fahrenheit (27-28 degrees Celsius), keeping the weather comfortable regardless of the season. If possible, avoid the rainiest months of April, May, and November.
How to get there
Flights from the US to Nairobi typically involve at least one or two connections. Prices fluctuate, with tickets often ranging from 350 to 800 euros (about $380 to $870). Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is the sixth-largest in Africa and serves as a major hub for international carriers.
I had a layover in Nairobi, the Kenyan capital, before heading out on safari. I have to admit I was not expecting such a modern city. Skyscrapers, shops, bars, restaurants, and a national museum with some beautiful collections showcasing the country's heritage. Just a few minutes from the capital, you can already spot wild animals in a reserve.