The Medina of Casablanca, a crossroads of histories between two worlds
In the noise of the economic capital of Morocco hides a district that defies all conventions. The Medina of Casablanca, rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1755, is the most recent in the country and certainly the most unique. Here, Arab-Muslim architecture blends with influences from Europe, creating a singular architectural crossbreeding that tells the story of three centuries of cultural exchange.
A phoenix born from the ashes of Anfa
Between the 12th and 15th centuries, the city of Anfa thrived as an active port before being completely razed by the Portuguese in 1468 in retaliation for privateering activities. The site fell into oblivion for three centuries. It was in 1770 that Sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah decided to rebuild the city, renaming it Dar El-Beida, the White House. He ordered the construction of mosques, hammams, ovens and mills, while reinforcing the ramparts to create a strategic defensive point on the Atlantic coast.
By the 19th century, a significant European community had invested in the medina. Three quarters of the current structures date from the 20th century, testifying to a period when the medina housed hotels, restaurants, consulates and the first bank of Morocco.
An architecture like no other
What is striking about this medina is its architecture, which is decidedly different from other Moroccan medinas. Bourgeois houses and private mansions with a Hispano-Moresque dominance feature carved wooden doors, wrought iron balconies and moucharabieh windows. The streets, often wide enough to allow cars to circulate, contrast with the traditional mazes of the imperial medinas.
In some respects, the medina might remind you of Mediterranean cities with its white facades, Moorish arches and Andalusian patios. This architectural singularity reflects its cosmopolitan history, where Europeans and Moroccans lived together in a unique commercial hubbub.
The monotheistic triangle, a symbol of harmonious coexistence
At the heart of the medina stands a poignant testament to religious tolerance. The monotheistic triangle brings together the baroque Spanish church known as Santa Buenaventura, now deconsecrated and turned into a cultural center, the Ettedgui synagogue, and the Ould El Hamra mosque, the oldest in Casablanca, completed in 1795. The Hamra mosque is said to derive its name either from the red city of Marrakech, where its builder originated, or from the color of his beard, which he dyed with henna.
The Jewish community was very present in the medina, particularly in the Mellah district. Local legends enrich every corner. The story of Lalla Taja, a benefactor of children in the 19th century whose mausoleum was funded by the Belgian Consulate, continues to move visitors.
Stone guardians: from the Sqala to the sanctuaries
The Sqala remains one of the jewels of the medina. This fortified bastion was built in 1769 by Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah to protect the city with its imposing cannons aimed at the Atlantic Ocean. The building is inspired by European Renaissance fortifications and was constructed by Genoese master craftsmen. Today, it has been transformed into a Moorish cafe-restaurant, offering an enchanting break in an Andalusian garden with a panoramic view of the port.
Sanctuaries dot the route. The tomb of Sidi Allal al-Kaïraouani, the first saint of the city, and the koubba (domed tomb) of Sidi Bou Smara are important places of commemoration for the locals. You generally enter the medina through Bab Marrakech (Marrakech Gate), one of the eight gates that once pierced the 20 to 26 foot high ramparts along a 2.5 mile perimeter.
The soul of the souks between tradition and modernity
The labyrinth of narrow alleys houses a vast souk selling linens, ironwork, leather goods and traditional crafts. The African market nicknamed Little Dakar adds a new dynamic with its sub-Saharan products, testifying to the cultural diversity of Casablanca.
Contrary to expectations, the stalls do not just feature spices and leather slippers, but also products from major European brands that Casablancans are fond of. The fruit, vegetable and fish markets nevertheless offer an authentic dive into the daily life of the residents.
A friendly tip: Do not miss the Heritage Interpretation Center, which is free, located on rue de la Marine near the Ould El Hamra mosque. This visit will considerably enrich your understanding of Casablanca history before you wander through the alleys.
Living the medina at the Casablanca rhythm
At 5 am, when the sky turns red with the first light, the medina stretches and the first shopkeepers open their doors. Carts and donkeys loaded with goods wander about while street vendors return to their spots. At twilight, when the sky turns purple, the lit-up medina still vibrates with human activity while a languid melody rises toward the sky.
For a gourmet break, take a seat on the small square where street vendors offer bowls of snails cooked in a spicy broth served piping hot. The medina is located in the city center, a 5-minute walk from the Casa-Port train station and the port, offering a striking contrast with the modern city that surrounds it.