Puy-de-Dôme, the sentinel volcano of the Chaîne des Puys
At dawn on September 19, 1648, Florin Périer left Clermont with a tube of mercury in hand. His brother-in-law, Blaise Pascal, had tasked him with climbing the Puy-de-Dôme to prove that air has weight. The mercury level dropped by nine centimeters between the valley floor and the summit. Atmospheric pressure had effectively been discovered, and the volcano secured its place in the history of science.
Why visit the Puy-de-Dôme?
This volcanic dome, dormant for about 12,000 years, reaches an elevation of 1,465 meters (4,806 feet). It anchors the Chaîne des Puys, a chain of 80 volcanoes designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2018 under the name "Chaîne des Puys - Limagne fault tectonic arena." It was the first natural site in mainland France to receive this recognition.
Awarded the Grand Site de France label in 2008, the summit provides a 360-degree panorama of the volcanic landscape, the Limagne plain, and Clermont-Ferrand. On clear days, the Sancy mountains are visible on the horizon. Cones, domes, and maars dot the landscape like a relief map.
Reaching the summit: train or trail?
The Panoramique des Dômes
Since 2012, an electric rack railway has replaced the old toll road. The Panoramique des Dômes climbs 565 meters (1,854 feet) in 15 minutes, following a path that curves with the volcano. The arrival station is entirely underground, topped with subalpine vegetation to restore the natural appearance of the peak.
The Sentier des Muletiers and the Chemin des Chèvres
The Sentier des Muletiers (Muleteers' Path) starts at the Col de Ceyssat, climbing in switchbacks for 1.9 kilometers (1.2 miles) with a 350-meter (1,148-foot) elevation gain. Expect 45 minutes to an hour of hiking. This route follows the path taken by ancient pilgrims who once climbed to the temple. The Chemin des Chèvres (Goats' Path), starting from the Panoramique parking lot, is longer but less crowded, featuring stretches through the woods.
Local tip: Hike up the Muletiers for the views and head down the Chemin des Chèvres for a change of scenery. Check the summit webcam before you leave, as the weather changes rapidly between the plain and the 1,465-meter peak.
At the summit: 2,000 years of open-air history
A 3-kilometer (1.9-mile) loop, accessible for wheelchairs, circles the summit. The Temple of Mercury, built in the 2nd century by the citizens of Augustonemetum, originally covered 3,600 square meters. It was one of the largest mountain sanctuaries in the Western Roman Empire. Reopened to the public in June 2024 after more than a decade of restoration, the site allows visitors to walk among the ruins and visualize the scale of the structure via partially reconstructed walls.
The Espace Temple de Mercure, a free museum at the summit, displays models, videos, and facsimiles of artifacts found during excavations. An exhibit also covers the feat of aviator Eugène Renaux, who landed his biplane on the summit in 1911 to win a 100,000-franc prize. In good weather, the movement of paragliders above the volcanoes adds to the view.
Paragliding from the summit
The Puy-de-Dôme features eight paragliding takeoff zones facing every direction, a setup considered unique in Europe. Several schools certified by the FFVL (French Free Flight Federation) offer tandem flights year-round, ranging from a 15-minute discovery flight to a 40-minute long-duration flight that uses thermal updrafts to soar near neighboring volcanoes.
Prices range from 100 to 240 EUR (about $108 to $260) depending on the package, with an optional video to capture the flight over the Chaîne des Puys.
Opening hours
The Panoramique des Domes train operates throughout the year, excluding brief periods for maintenance.
High season (July to August): departures every 20 minutes from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM, with the last descent at 8:20 PM.
Mid-season (April to June, September to October): departures every 40 minutes from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Winter period: departures every hour from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, on select days only.
*Information subject to change
The Puy de Dome is impressive, and you can spot it from a long way off in the landscape.
To reach the summit, cars aren't allowed. You can take the Panoramique des Domes train or ride your bike during the dedicated cycling days.
There are also plenty of hiking trails.
The region is gorgeous, a really great find.