Massillon Square: the medieval heart of Hyères dominated by the Templar Tower
The stocky silhouette of the Templar Tower stands out against the blue sky. At its base, cafe terraces spread across the irregular cobblestones of the square. The scent of toasted bread mixes with the animated chatter of regulars. This small plaza, with its ocher and pink facades, packs eight centuries of local history into a single spot.
Why visit Massillon Square?
This square acts as the focal point of the medieval old town. Visitors who pass through the Porte Massillon (Massillon Gate), built in the 12th and 13th centuries and a registered historic monument since 1926, emerge into a maze of steep alleys lined with colorful shops. The vibe calls to mind Provence, but also Italy and Corsica.
The Parcours des Arts (Arts Trail), which won first prize in the national urban art competition in 2018, starts here. This marked route connects artisan workshops, galleries, and monuments all the way up to the medieval castle of the Lords of Fos.
The Templar Tower, a monument of exceptional rarity
The Chapelle Saint-Blaise (Saint-Blaise Chapel), as it is also known, is the only remaining vestige of the commandery founded by the Order of the Temple in the 12th century. Its architecture is extremely rare, consisting of two superimposed chapels originally covered by a flat roof. The building served as both a place of worship and a guard room.
After the order was dissolved in 1312, the Knights of Malta took over the building. The local municipality moved in in 1770 and stayed until 1914. During that time, new windows were cut and a floor was added. A complete restoration, carried out between 1985 and 1992, returned it to its former dignity. It was listed as a historic monument on March 30, 1987.
Local tip: A special kids' scavenger hunt allows families to go in search of the Templar treasure. This playful tour turns an architectural walk into an adventure for younger travelers.
The Saturday market and favorite local spots
Every Saturday morning, the Provencal market takes over the square and Avenue Gambetta. Goat cheeses, local charcuterie, and seasonal vegetables fill the stalls. It is a great place to pick up items for a picnic before hiking up to the castle ruins.
The nearby alleys are packed with small food shops, from cheese shops selling only goat milk specialties to artisan bakeries offering lavender-infused bread in season, and spice-scented oriental grocers. The Biscuiterie Mene Gilbert on Rue Massillon makes its cookies and rusks using traditional recipes.
What to look for around the square
- The Porte Massillon and its clock, a remnant of the medieval ramparts
- The Collégiale Saint-Paul (Saint-Paul Collegiate Church), reachable by heading up the alleys from the square
- The Jardin Sainte-Claire (Sainte-Claire Garden), whose large wooden gate opens to curious visitors
- The Villa Noailles, a 1920s contemporary art center frequented by Dalí, Man Ray, and Poulenc
The restaurants on the square offer refined cuisine with views of the tower. La Table, at number 3, serves creative French dishes at the foot of the historic stone walls. In the evening, when the lights come on over the facades, the atmosphere becomes much more intimate.
This spot was truly a favorite find during my exploration of the old city of Hyères.
Despite the touristy vibe, the old town stays lively and offers plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops.
Dominated by the Templars Tower, the square is surrounded by small buildings where narrow streets and staircases meet.
The best part is grabbing a seat at a terrace, admiring the vibrant colors of the facades and the deep blue sky, and just letting time slip away...