Paimpont Forest: following the trail of Merlin and the Knights of the Round Table
Bubbles rise to the surface of the fontaine de Barenton (Barenton Fountain), as if the spring itself were breathing. This cold water that appears to boil without heat has intrigued visitors since the 12th century. Legend says this is where Merlin the Enchanter met the fairy Viviane on a spring day.
Why visit Paimpont Forest?
This 11,000 hectare (27,000 acre) woodland, the largest in Brittany, goes by two names. Official maps label it Paimpont Forest. In the public imagination, it is Brocéliande. This connection surfaced in the 19th century, when scholars and romantics sought to map the stories of Chrétien de Troyes and the Arthurian cycle onto the local landscape.
The forest itself is unique. Ancient oaks, heather moors, dormant ponds, and red shale outcrops create a shifting landscape. The character of the woods changes with the clock, from morning mists in the Val sans Retour (Valley of No Return) to the low light hitting the ridges late in the afternoon.
Legendary sites to explore
The Val sans Retour and the Arbre d'Or
According to the 13th-century Lancelot-Grail, the fairy Morgan le Fay trapped unfaithful knights here. After 17 years, Lancelot du Lac (Lancelot of the Lake) broke the spell and freed 253 prisoners. At the valley entrance, the Arbre d'Or (Golden Tree) by artist François Davin was erected in 1991, following a devastating fire in 1990, as a symbol of rebirth. The Miroir aux fées (Fairies Mirror), a pond where nocturnal creatures once gazed at their reflections, marks the start of the trail.
The fontaine de Barenton
Accessible via a 4 km (2.5 mile) trail from the hamlet of Folle-Pensée, this modest spring holds a reputation. Its natural gas bubbles fueled stories of supernatural powers, from curing mental illness to helping young women find a husband. The Anglo-Norman poet Wace mentioned it as early as the 12th century in the Roman de Rou.
The tomb of Merlin and other sites
Two shale slabs near Saint-Malon-sur-Mel are said to be the burial place of the enchanter. The site, located near the road, can be underwhelming for those chasing deep mystery. A more impressive sight is the Chêne à Guillotin (Guillotin Oak), a tree nearly 900 years old with a hollow trunk once large enough to shelter a man.
Local tip: Start at La Porte des Secrets (The Gateway of Secrets) in Paimpont, an immersive audiovisual experience that sets the stage for the legends. The 7.50 EUR (about $8) tour is a great primer for the hikes ahead, especially if you are traveling with kids.
How to explore the forest
The tourist offices in Paimpont, Tréhorenteuc, and Guer provide free hiking maps. Note that 80 percent of the forest is privately owned, and from mid-September to the end of March, some trails close for hunting season. Only the Val sans Retour and its ridges remain open year-round.
Guided storytelling walks depart from the Paimpont office at 1:30 PM during the season. Plan for 4.5 hours with a shuttle to see the fontaine de Barenton, the Arbre d'Or, and the Val sans Retour. The Centre de l'Imaginaire Arthurien (Arthurian Imaginary Center) at the Château de Comper also offers guided tours and exhibitions on the local lore.
I loved Paimpont and Brocéliande. The vigor of the vegetation really struck me. Around the village, you can go for a beautiful walk around the lake. The water is calm and smooth. It is very soothing.
Ask the locals for the spots to see. There are many hidden treasures like century-old trees.