Visiting Las Palmas
This is the largest city in the Canary Islands and the capital of Gran Canaria, one of the islands in the archipelago. Located off the west coast of Africa, Las Palmas was conquered by Spain in 1483. Since then, it has grown by consistently leveraging its coastal setting. Sugarcane long defined the economy, making the city a target for privateers and pirates. Las Palmas endured numerous attacks before evolving into a popular tourist destination known for its climate, beaches, and duty-free shopping.
One of the finest urban beaches
With two miles of fine sand stretching across the bay, la Playa de Las Canteras is ranked among the best urban beaches in the world. A coral reef keeps the water calm for swimmers while providing a playground for snorkelers and divers who come to see the marine life. Just a few yards off the shore, volcanic rock formations known as la barra create a natural breakwater, perfect for surfing, kayaking, or stand-up paddleboarding. This area is the soul of the city, especially lively and active.
The waterfront, Paseo de las Canteras, serves as both a scenic walkway and a prime spot to grab a table at the restaurants lining the path. Menus are packed with local specialties like grilled fish and embarrado, a marinated tuna dish. Meat is less common, but the local black pork served in puchero, a traditional stew, is worth trying. Palm sap Catalan cream is the standard for dessert. At night, this district stays awake late with parties and events. This is also where you will find the Auditorio Alfredo Kraus, a striking piece of architecture where the stage seems to dissolve into the ocean during concerts.
The port of La Luz remains a busy hub, with a constant parade of cruise ships, cargo vessels, and fishing trawlers. A rudimentary fort from 1494 has been restored nearby.
An authentic historic district
Las Palmas is a large, cosmopolitan city with typical commercial boulevards. In the historic center, le Vegueta, the atmosphere shifts to something more authentic, concentrated with the city's most significant buildings. The market is one of the oldest in Spain, housed under an 1863 structure where exotic fruits create a display of color and flavor. On the Rue des balcons, noble houses stand in contrast to the modern high-rises. In the Plaza de Santa Ana, eight bronze-sculpted dogs keep watch. These mysterious symbols of the city appear to guard the cathedral, which took four centuries to complete and blends Gothic, Renaissance, and neoclassical styles. Its dark, gray stone contrasts with the elegance of the Palais épiscopal and the architecture of the Casa Regental.
In the Pasaje Pedro de Algara, ochre tones take over, leading to the Casa de Colón, a museum dedicated to the island's history, the Americas, and the explorers of the New World. It was once the governor's residence where Christopher Columbus stopped over, and the site includes a courtyard filled with parrots. Further on, the cabinet littéraire is no longer a theater, but its opulent salons now host various exhibitions. Surprisingly, the avant-garde Centro Antlántico de Arte Moderno has opened its doors in Vegueta, gaining fame for its collection of paintings, sculptures, and graphic works from three continents. The 1757 hermitage of San Antonio Abad, the indigenous artifacts at the Musée Canarien, and the Musée des arts sacrés are all worth visiting. Past the busy shopping street of Triana, the Parc San Telmo offers a breath of fresh air, and you should not miss the city's most popular plaza, Santa Catalina.
When to go
The sun shines year-round, with peak temperatures from April through late October. Outside of summer, the thermometer hovers between 63°F and 70°F (17°C and 21°C), though the water can be a bit chilly. In February, for nearly a month, the carnival transforms the city. It has been a marquee event since the 16th century and is recognized as a festival of national tourist interest, drawing massive crowds.
How to get there
The city is served by its own airport, with numerous direct flights available. Buses and taxis provide easy access to the city center, though renting a car is a practical option. Several ferry companies operate routes from the Spanish mainland as well as inter-island connections.
When going to the Canaries, you expect to find a bit of an escape, some wild nature. That was my mindset, anyway. Las Palmas is a very big city, almost 400,000 inhabitants. Concrete, rows of apartment buildings along the beach, roads packed with cars, tons of people on the white sand beaches. I only stayed 2 days, then I continued my trip elsewhere in the Canaries.
There are still a few nice corners, some historical spots like the Christopher Columbus house.