Belgrade, the rebel capital of the Balkans
It is 11 p.m. on the banks of the Sava River, and the city is just starting to wake up. On the splavovi, those floating nightclubs moored along the river, the bass is already thumping. A few hundred yards away, the massive silhouette of Kalemegdan fortress cuts into the twilight. Belgrade is like no other European capital. Destroyed and rebuilt more than forty times throughout its history, it wears its scars with a casual, almost provocative pride.
Belgrade: a destination for curious minds
This city is for those who look for something beyond polished facades and manicured itineraries. Nightlife enthusiasts will find one of the most intense scenes in Europe here, and history buffs can read twenty centuries of turmoil on the walls of the old city. Belgrade is also perfect for travelers on a budget who refuse to sacrifice the quality of their experience.
However, if you are looking for romantic architecture like in Prague or Vienna, look elsewhere. The city is not ugly, but it does not try to seduce you at first glance. Visitors who need grandiose monuments on every street corner might be disappointed. And those who cannot stand cigarette smoke will need to be patient, as Serbs still smoke frequently indoors.
A very budget-friendly destination for Europe
Belgrade remains one of the least expensive capitals on the continent. Budget between 40 and 60 euros (about $44 to $66) per day for a comfortable stay, including lodging. A meal in a traditional kafana rarely exceeds 10 euros (about $11), and public transport costs less than one euro (about $1.10) per ride.
The old city and Kalemegdan: the beating heart of Belgrade
Everything starts in Stari Grad, the smallest neighborhood in the city but also the densest in history. Republic Square has served as a rallying point for Belgraders for generations. The equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo, finger pointed toward Constantinople, recalls the liberation from the Ottoman yoke. From there, the pedestrian street Knez Mihailova unfolds its half-mile of Art Nouveau facades all the way to the fortress.
The Kalemegdan fortress deserves several hours of your time. Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and Austro-Hungarians have each defended or destroyed it in turn. Today, it is a park where families picnic on Sundays while couples watch the sunset over the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. Do not miss the small Ružica Church, covered in ivy on the outside and decorated with chandeliers made from shell casings on the inside.
Pro tip: take a detour through Kosančićev venac, the oldest street in Belgrade outside the walls. This winding lane houses the residence of Princess Ljubica and Saint Michael's Cathedral in an unexpected pocket of calm.
Skadarlija and Dorćol: the bohemian soul
Skadarlija gets its nickname as the Montmartre of Belgrade. This quarter-mile cobblestone street gathers the most famous kafanas in the city, where musicians play the tamburica until dawn. The restaurants Tri Šešira and Dva Jelena have welcomed visitors for over a century. Prices remain reasonable despite the tourist influx, and the atmosphere is worth the trip in the evening.
Just to the north, the Dorćol neighborhood offers a more contemporary version of this energy. Here, art galleries sit alongside cocktail bars and cafes where students debate the world. The Dorćol Platz cultural space brings artists and locals together for regular events. For an exceptional coffee, step inside Kafeterija Magazin 1907, located in a historic three-story building.
Zemun: the former Austrian village
A fifteen-minute bus ride from the center, Zemun was once a city in its own right, sitting on the other side of the Austro-Hungarian border. Its narrow streets retain a Central European charm that Belgrade has lost. At the top of the hill, the Gardoš Tower offers a panoramic view over the red-tiled roofs and the Danube.
The quays of Zemun are lined with fish restaurants serving grilled daily catches. The atmosphere is more peaceful than in the center, almost like a village. The Zemun market, one of the oldest in the region, is worth a visit for its fresh produce and morning bustle.
Pro tip: take the BeoVoz urban train from Vukov Spomenik station to Zemun. The route cuts through the concrete blocks of Novi Beograd and offers an unusual perspective on socialist architecture.
The left bank: temples and panoramas
The Vračar neighborhood extends over a hill south of the center. Its major landmark, the Saint Sava Temple, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Construction began in 1935 and is still not finished. The interior impresses with its scale and golden mosaics, even if some parts remain under construction.
Vračar also attracts visitors for its residential vibe and numerous cafes. The Kalenić market, created in 1926, remains one of the most vibrant in the city for fruits, vegetables, and local specialties. The cherries from Serbia, in June, are worth the trip alone.
Where to eat and drink in Belgrade?
Serbian cuisine is hearty and straightforward. Ćevapi, small grilled sausages served with flatbread and onions, are the national snack. The pljeskavica is a spiced ground meat patty that makes any standard burger seem like an appetizer. To accompany it, ajvar, a red pepper relish, is found on every table.
Kafanas offer a more complete experience. The Manufaktura restaurant in the old city serves revisited Serbian cuisine with wines from the Fruška Gora region. To taste artisanal rakija, head to Belgrade Urban Distillery, the first bar entirely dedicated to this fruit brandy. Beer lovers will find what they are looking for at the Dogma brewery, near Ada Ciganlija.
Pro tip: in the morning, do as the locals do and order a cheese or meat burek at a pekara, accompanied by a drinkable yogurt. Expect to pay less than 3 euros (about $3.30) for this filling breakfast.
Where to sleep in Belgrade and its surroundings?
The Stari Grad neighborhood puts everything within walking distance. Apartments are plentiful and often cheaper than standard hotels. The Balkan Soul Hostel is suitable for solo travelers with a good price-to-quality ratio. For more comfort, Mama Shelter Belgrade offers modern rooms and a rooftop with a view.
Vračar offers a quieter alternative, ideal for families or those who prefer a neighborhood vibe. The Envoy hotel, near Knez Mihailova street, combines five-star service with reasonable prices. In Zemun, a few charming guesthouses allow you to get away from the hustle and bustle while staying connected to the center via public transport.
How to get to and around Belgrade?
Nikola Tesla airport is 11 miles from the center. Bus 72 reaches the Zeleni Venac station in 45 minutes for less than 2 euros (about $2.20). Taxis have low rates, but negotiate the price before getting in. The CarGo app functions like Uber and avoids unpleasant surprises.
From the US, you will likely connect through a major European hub like Frankfurt or Vienna to reach Belgrade. By bus, Belgrade is connected to neighboring capitals: expect about 8 hours from Zagreb or Sofia, or 6 hours from Sarajevo.
In town, the network of trams, buses, and trolleybuses covers most neighborhoods. A single ticket costs about 90 dinars (about $0.85), and the day pass remains very affordable. The city center is easily navigated on foot in a half-day.
When to go?
Spring and autumn offer the best conditions, with mild temperatures and moderate crowds. Summer can be stifling, with spikes over 95 degrees Fahrenheit, but it is also the season for festivals and nightlife energy. Winter is cold and gray, and the pollution linked to coal heating makes the air unpleasant in some neighborhoods. Avoid January and February if you are sensitive to air quality.
I went there for a wedding with no particular expectations, and I really liked this city, which I did not expect to be so lively. Belgrade offers some lovely walks, especially around the fortress and Kalemegdan Park, or even Tašmajdan Park. The National Museum, which traces the history of the country, is interesting to visit. It is still an uncrowded destination, so you can enjoy all the sites in peace.
As of this year, all public transport is free (with the exception of the airport shuttle), which makes getting around much easier. One thing to note, the locals speak relatively little English, outside of the main squares in the city center. A language guide can therefore be handy.