Visiting Laon
Laon is the capital city of the Aisne department in northern France. The city is defined by its hilltop position, crowned by the cathédrale Notre-Dame, which earned it the nickname of the "crowned mountain." Countless paths and narrow stairways, known as grimpettes, connect the upper and lower town. A funicular once linked the train station district to the town hall, but it was dismantled in 2016 for financial reasons. Laon has preserved a wealth of historic monuments, most notably its defensive ramparts that stretch for over 7 kilometers (about 4 miles).
A Medieval City of Significance
You enter the old town through medieval gates that remain in remarkable condition, such as the porte d’Ardan and the porte de Soisson. Laon experienced a major boom during the Middle Ages, housing an episcopal palace that now serves as the city courthouse. It was also a prestigious royal residence during the Carolingian era. The cathédrale Notre-Dame dates back to the 11th century and stands as a prime example of the early Gothic style that later inspired Notre-Dame de Paris. The Saint-Martin abbey complex dates to the early 12th century. Aside from its attractive cloister, which has been converted into gardens, the building itself is not open for tours.
To dig deeper into the history of Laon, head to the Musée archéologique. It holds impressive local and Mediterranean collections, along with a fine arts section featuring a watercolor by Delacroix. Right next door, you will see the chapelle des Templiers, a testament to the city's historical prominence. Afterward, spend some time wandering the lanes of the medieval town to spot the various frescoes and trompe-l'œil murals that decorate the old walls today.
A City Full of Curiosities
Laon is defined by an impressive network of underground tunnels. The city is built on a hill of relatively soft limestone, which encouraged extensive quarrying in the past. Throughout this labyrinth, you can find seashell fossils, old shooting galleries, and even signs of troglodyte dwellings.
Near the porte des Chenizelles, take the panorama staircase to a spot where nature and culture blend perfectly in the center of Laon: the Cuve Saint-Vincent. Once dominated by vineyards, this green space is now a great spot for a stroll.
For history buffs, Laon was deeply impacted by World War I. The Chemin des Dames, site of one of the war's deadliest battles, is located just a few kilometers south of Laon. An observation point there offers a wide view of the landscape. Additionally, the caverne du Dragon opens up the hidden side of the Great War. This underground barracks provides a stark look at the daily lives and activities of both German and French soldiers.
When to Go
Laon is best visited in the spring and summer. The medieval festivals, held every year in early September, offer a great opportunity to get a feel for the city.
How to Get There
By car, you can take the N3 or the A26 motorway. Laon is connected by train to Paris, Amiens, Reims, and Hirson in the Ardennes.
