Visiting Starigrad, gateway to Paklenica National Park
Sandwiched between the Adriatic Sea and jagged mountains, Starigrad is a low-key Dalmatian village for travelers who value rugged nature over glitz. Its location makes it a prime base for exploring Paklenica National Park, while still offering a classic seaside environment without the heavy cruise-ship crowds.
A village between mountain and shore
Starigrad sits at the foot of the Velebit range, where limestone peaks loom over the coastline. The village center is modest, stretching along the main coastal road. You will find stone houses, a small fishing harbor, and several beaches within walking distance. The water is clear and calm, perfect for a quiet afternoon swim.
Portal to Paklenica National Park
The entrance to Paklenica National Park is just minutes from the village center. It is a designated protected site and a magnet for hikers and rock climbers. The park features two dramatic canyons, Velika and Mala Paklenica, where cliffs, streams, and forests create a landscape that feels almost alpine. There are well-marked trails for day trips, while experienced climbers can head toward the higher mountain huts.
Subtle heritage
Starigrad does not rely on grand monuments, but historical traces remain. The Večka Kula fort, a crumbling medieval structure, overlooks the sea at the edge of the village. A short drive away, you can find isolated rural churches and old dry-stone farmhouses that offer a glimpse into a traditional agricultural lifestyle that has largely faded.
Activities and excursions
Beyond hiking, Starigrad is suited for lower-impact activities like kayaking along the coast, mountain biking on gravel paths, or sunset strolls. By car, you can explore the Velebit range or drive 45 minutes to Zadar for a city day trip. During the season, local operators offer boat excursions to the nearby islands.
Cuisine of sea and mountain
Local food follows Dalmatian traditions, prioritizing grilled fish, olive oil, and wild herbs. You will also find pršut (smoked ham) cured in the mountain air, best paired with a glass of vino plavac, a bold red wine produced on the southern slopes. For dessert, look for fritule, small sweet fritters commonly served during local celebrations.
Where to eat?
- Konoba Pece (center): Shaded terrace, traditional Dalmatian dishes, family-run service, and reasonable prices.
- Restaurant Dinko (port area): A reliable spot for grilled fish and seafood with a view of the water.
- Ante Restaurant (Paklenica road): Simple, hearty food, ideal for refueling before or after a day of hiking.
Where to stay?
- Hotel Vicko (center): Family-run hotel with a private beach, an on-site restaurant, and sea views.
- Apartments Paklenica (near the park): Well-equipped units, a practical choice for families or hikers.
- Bluesun Hotel Alan (southern edge of the village): A larger resort complex with a spa, pool, and direct beach access.
When to go?
From May to September, the climate is ideal for the beach and the trails. July and August can be intensely hot in the canyons, though the sea remains refreshing. May and September offer the best balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
How to get there?
Starigrad is about 45 minutes from Zadar, which has an international airport. Buses connect the city to the village, but renting a car is the simplest way to explore the surroundings. From Split, the drive takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes via the coastal highway.
How to get around?
The village center is walkable. For reaching the surrounding areas, especially if you plan to hike or find secluded beaches, having your own vehicle is recommended.
This village is cute and typical. What makes it so interesting is its proximity to the national park located right next door. You can find everything you need before heading into the park. I still recommend walking around the village a bit, it is super nice.