Visiting Page, your gateway to the wonders of the red Arizona desert
The Arizona sun warms the ocher rocks, casting shifting shadows that dance across postcard-worthy landscapes. Page isn't really a destination in itself, but rather the essential starting point for a concentration of natural splendor. From wind-sculpted canyons to the azure waters of a man-made lake, every horizon here is a work of raw art, forged by millions of years of geological history.
Is Page the right destination for you?
If your soul vibrates to the rhythm of wide-open spaces, and you are fascinated by desert landscapes carved by time and water, then Page is undoubtedly your next stop. It is a dream for photographers, hikers, boaters, and anyone looking to connect with spectacular, grand-scale nature. On the other hand, if you avoid summer crowds or are looking for a lively urban scene, the town of Page itself is quite functional.
A car is absolutely essential for exploring the surroundings, and you should be prepared for excursions that often require booking well in advance.
Antelope Canyon: the cathedral of light and rock
Antelope Canyon is an absolute wonder, a masterpiece of nature where light dances and carves the sandstone walls. Divided into two sections, Upper Antelope Canyon and Lower Antelope Canyon, each offers a unique experience. The Upper is famous for its "light beams" that pierce through the slots, while the Lower is a more adventurous route with stairs and narrow passages.
A local tip: Booking a guided tour with a Navajo guide is mandatory for Antelope Canyon. Reserve well ahead of time, especially if you are aiming for the time slots when the light is most photogenic, which is often between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Choose the Lower Canyon if you have an adventurous spirit and aren't afraid of stairs; it is often a little less crowded and just as spectacular.
Horseshoe Bend: the iconic loop of the Colorado
The meander of Horseshoe Bend is the iconic image of the region. The Colorado River makes a 270-degree turn, wrapping around a rock pillar in a perfect embrace. The view is dizzying from the rocky promontory, offering a vertical perspective of the river's emerald waters, 300 meters (about 1,000 feet) below.
A local tip: To avoid the crowds and the intense midday heat, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The trail is short but completely exposed to the sun. Don't forget a bottle of water, even for a short hike, and be extremely careful near the edge, as there aren't barriers everywhere.
Lake Powell: the desert oasis with a thousand arms
Lake Powell, a vast expanse of azure water nestled in the heart of the red desert, is an artificial marvel created by the Glen Canyon Dam. Its calm waters invite swimming, kayaking, paddleboarding, or renting a boat to explore its countless coves and flooded canyons. A boat excursion to Rainbow Bridge National Monument, a giant natural arch accessible only by water, is an unforgettable experience.
Glen Canyon Dam: a feat of engineering
The Glen Canyon Dam is an impressive technical achievement. You can walk across the bridge that spans it to admire the view of the Colorado River below and Lake Powell upstream. The visitor center offers fascinating information about its construction and its impact on the region.
A local tip: Renting a boat for a few hours on Lake Powell is a great way to escape the crowds and discover isolated corners. If you are on a budget, opt for a kayak or paddleboard excursion to explore the coves near Antelope Point Marina.
Goosenecks State Park: the meanders of the San Juan
An hour's drive from Page, in neighboring Utah, Goosenecks State Park offers a spectacular view of the interlocking meanders of the San Juan River, which has carved its path through the rock over millions of years. It is a fascinating geological spectacle, less famous than Horseshoe Bend but just as impressive.
Where to eat and drink in Page?
The culinary scene in Page is quite practical, designed for travelers in transit. You will find mostly American restaurant chains, but a few local spots are worth the detour for their authenticity.
The restaurant Big John's Texas BBQ is known for its smoked meats and casual vibe. For a good breakfast or a quick lunch, Ranch House Grille offers classic staples. Otherwise, the well-stocked supermarkets will allow you to prepare picnics for your excursions.
Where to stay in and around Page?
Page offers a wide range of hotels and motels, from economy options to more comfortable establishments. Most are located along the main street, providing easy access to restaurants and tour agencies. It is highly recommended to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the peak tourist season.
For camping enthusiasts, several sites are available near Lake Powell, offering a more immersive experience under the desert stars. The immediate surroundings of Page offer few alternative options, as the town is the main hub for lodging.
How to get to and around Page?
A car is absolutely essential to reach Page and explore its surroundings. Page is accessible via US-89. The closest airport is the small Page Municipal Airport (PGA), but most visitors arrive from the international airports in Las Vegas (LAS) or Phoenix (PHX), which require several hours of driving. Once there, the town of Page is compact, but all major points of interest (Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell) require a vehicle.
When to go?
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are the best times to visit Page. Temperatures are pleasant for hiking and water activities, and the crowds are less dense than in mid-summer. Summer (June-August) is extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F), making outdoor activities difficult. Winter (November-March) is cooler and quieter, but some excursions, particularly on Lake Powell, may be limited.
Close to Antelope Canyon, and accessible in a few hours of driving from the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley, it is a pretty central city for visiting the parks. I spent one day there to visit Antelope and Horseshoe Bend in the area. In the city itself, there is not much to see. You mostly find hotels, shops, and restaurants. A few positive points: the diners stay open pretty late (until 10 p.m.) and a huge Walmart lets you pick up all kinds of supplies (food, clothes, electronics). Be careful if you are scheduling visits, because the time zones between Page, Monument Valley, and Antelope Canyon are not the same.