Visiting Valparaíso
As the primary port of Chile, Valparaíso is a city of distinct contrasts, tucked into a wide Pacific bay and framed by 45 steep hills known as Cerros. Founded in 1544 by Pedro de Valdivia, the city entered a golden age during the 19th century, drawing gold seekers, shipping magnates, and major banking institutions. A massive earthquake and the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 eventually stifled this growth. Today, the city is a hub for students and artists, filled with street art, museums, cafes, and boutiques. Its historic center is even recognized as a Unesco World Heritage site.
The maritime heritage of Valparaíso
Located along the waterfront, the Barrio Puerto is the oldest district in the city. Sitting between the flatlands and the hills, you will find historical landmarks like the Iglesia de la Matriz. The Plaza Sotomayor, lined with official government buildings, serves as the institutional heart of Valparaíso. You can see the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, which commemorates the naval battle of May 21, 1879. Housed in a mansion typical of the early 20th-century bourgeoisie, the Palais Baburizza and its Museum of Fine Arts are another essential stop. Afterward, head to the Muelle Prat, a small pier where you can catch a boat for a tour of the bay.
A labyrinth of colorful hills
The atmosphere in Valparaíso is defined by the maze of hills overlooking the port, each acting as a neighborhood with its own distinct identity and local culture. These residential Cerros are served by fifteen funicular elevators. To really explore the corners of these colorful districts, walk the steep streets, which also gives you a front-row seat to the city's street art. The essential Cerros include Cerro Concepcion and Cerro Alegre, both packed with plazas, walkways, and viewpoints like the Mirador Yugoslavo and Paseo Gervasoni. Do not miss the Open-Air Museum of Valparaíso on Cerro Bellavista, a collection of murals inaugurated in 1992. Another highlight is the Paseo 21 de Mayo on Cerro Artilleria, which offers one of the best panoramas in the city. Near Cerro Carcel, the Parque Cultural de Valparaiso, built on the site of a former prison, is worth a visit for its exhibitions and expansive green spaces.
Other things to see in Valparaíso
Fans of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda should visit his home on Cerro Bellavista, La Sebastiana. It holds a beautiful collection of art and period furniture. Down in the flatlands, take a walk through Plaza Victoria, a pleasant spot with large trees and fountains bordered by the cathedral. Near the port, visit the Mercado El Cardonal for an authentic local scene. You might also head over to the Paseo Muelle Barón, where you can often spot sea lions resting nearby.
When to go
Valparaíso is most pleasant to visit during the southern summer, between December and April.
How to get there
The city is easily accessible by bus from Santiago. You will arrive at the Terminal de Buses Rodovario after a trip of about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
I still remember telling myself that since I was already in Santiago, I might as well go to Valparaíso, which isn't far by bus. I knew it by name from my grandfather's stories, which he passed down to my father and then to me. Anyway, I thought I would spend 2 or 3 days, but I ended up staying 9!
The city is very pleasant day and night, with so many things to see and do that it is almost too short to see everything. The nightlife is in the lower part of town with its many bars, restaurants, and clubs, while daytime life is found more up in the hills, but be careful, as not every neighborhood is recommended. The best way to immerse yourself is to know the language so you can make the most of all the places unknown to tourists and share a good meal with a local family. I was there alone, and I think it could be complicated with a family given the workout you get climbing the hills (even with the funiculars) unless you have teenagers. As a couple, it works well since so many Chilean couples spend the weekend there. As for friends, I made some on the spot, which is why I extended my stay.