Visiting Abu Simbel
In southern Egypt, Abu Simbel could have easily remained an unassuming village, known primarily to freight drivers for its proximity to the Sudanese border. That changed thanks to ancient Nubia, which left behind two priceless treasures buried under the sand: the Great Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of Nefertari, discovered in 1813 and 1817 by Swiss and Italian explorers. Threatened by the rising waters of the Nile, they had to be moved 160 meters in 1964. It took three and a half years and 3,000 workers to clear and cut the stone blocks, a colossal operation that captivated the world and permanently altered the destiny of this small town in the Aswan region. Located on the edge of Lake Nasser, Abu Simbel now welcomes millions of travelers.
A peaceful haven
Its desert location makes Abu Simbel a destination with real character, and while the archaeological sites are the main attraction, it is worth staying at least one night. Some hotels are true homages to Nubian culture, their architecture and traditional decor possessing immense charm. In local restaurants, you will find distinctive cuisine with specialties such as tahina made from sesame, babaghanouj, which is an eggplant puree, and of course foul, a stew of hearty fava beans. Food lovers often gravitate toward mehallabeyya, a pudding flavored with rose water and topped with pistachios. While some claim Nubian coffee is among the best in the world, the hibiscus tea is a strong contender.
Aside from desert excursions, another highlight of Abu Simbel is Lake Nasser, a magnificent body of water that acts like an inland sea in the middle of the desert. Among the papyrus, birds like herons have made their home here, creating a tranquil environment far from urban noise and bathed in exceptional light. On its shores, the Pharaoh stands guard over his lands as an eternal master.
Ramses II, immense and eternal
In a country filled with remarkable ancient sites, Abu Simbel is certainly one of the most striking. On the ancient sacred hills of Meha and Ibshek, Ramses II launched a massive construction project at the beginning of his reign, in 1279 BC, and standing before it today is truly dizzying. The temples are carved directly into the sandstone cliffs, with the largest dedicated to the worship of several deities including the falcon-headed Ra-Horakhty, and of course, Ramses himself. The 33-meter facade is composed of four statues measuring about 20 meters tall that leave no doubt about their purpose. Dressed in a kilt, wearing the nemes headcloth, and sporting a false beard, the Pharaoh sits in all his splendor. Inside, you find a hypostyle hall with hypnotic engraving detail, and ten side chambers leading to the hall of statues, which are equally massive. The walls recount his victories, including the Battle of Kadesh and his exploits against the Hittites and Libyans. The ingenuity of those who built this oversized temple lies in one detail: at every equinox in February and October, everything is designed so that a ray of sunlight slips inside to illuminate the statue of Ramses for his birthday.
A few meters away sits the temple dedicated to Nefertari, the first and favorite wife of Ramses II, who was deified in the image of Hathor. It is more intimate, with six 10-meter-tall statues on the facade, including four representing the Pharaoh, along with sumptuous bas-reliefs and sculptures of their children at their feet. The queen is depicted with her horned crown and tall feathers, radiating imperial beauty. Inside, texts and reliefs highlight the couple, sometimes with great tenderness, alongside various deities. In the evening, a light and sound show illuminates the site. Ramses II is long gone, but he continues to reign and fascinate.
When to go
The hot season lasts from May to October, with an arid and dry climate that can reach extreme temperatures. January is the coolest month, and if you are sensitive to heat, the period between February and April is ideal. To avoid the crowds, it is highly recommended to visit the temples very early in the morning.
How to get there
Most international travelers fly into Cairo and connect to Aswan, which is 280 km from Abu Simbel. The road crosses the desert, and buses handle the route regularly. Some opt for a private driver. You can also choose a cruise that includes a stop at Abu Simbel. The town has its own airport, and the flight from Aswan takes 45 minutes.
During my Nile cruise in Egypt with my family, we took the extra excursion to Abu Simbel and I did not regret it. A jeep picked us up in Aswan very early in the morning. The trip was long for the day, but seeing the giants of Abu Simbel is surreal and you absolutely have to do it. It is surely the most interesting site along with the Pyramids. We were escorted by the army with other tourist vehicles because of the terrorist threat!