Les Deux Alpes: reviews and practical tips

Les Deux Alpes: Where You Can Ski a Glacier at 3,600 Meters

At 3,400 meters, the cold bites at your cheeks. The morning light bounces off the icy dome of the Puy Salié and turns the snow into a glittering carpet. Here, on the largest skiable glacier in Europe, the runs stretch toward the horizon, overlooked by the peaks of the Parc national des Écrins. Les Deux Alpes offers a rare feat: a continuous 2,268-meter vertical drop from the glacier all the way down to the village.

Why choose Les Deux Alpes for your ski trip?

The name of the resort tells its history. In the 19th century, the residents of Mont-de-Lans and Venosc shared these high mountain pastures to graze their herds each summer. In 1946, these two alps united to create one of the first major French ski resorts. Since 2017, the two municipalities have officially merged under the name Les Deux Alpes.

The exceptional altitude of the terrain guarantees reliable snow from late November through early May. The glacier even allows for skiing during certain summers, from late June to early August. This feature attracts both families looking for guaranteed snow and advanced riders searching for serious vertical.

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An inverted ski area with many faces

The layout of the resort surprises newcomers. The most accessible runs are located at altitude, on the glacier and the intermediate sectors. The closer you get to the resort, the more difficult the terrain becomes. The steep slopes that lead back to the village are marked red and black on the trail map. This inverted logic offers a valuable benefit: beginners enjoy better snow quality by staying high up.

For beginners and families

The front de neige (snow front), at the base of the buildings, features five free lifts including the covered Viking magic carpet. Children learn to glide here in a gentle environment, protected from the wind. The Jandri run, which is 16 kilometers long, allows novices to descend from the glacier to the resort on a gentle and consistent slope. This panoramic blue run crosses several environments, from powdery snow at altitude to forest passages lower down, with views of the Écrins the entire way.

For advanced skiers and freeriders

The Diable sector and the slopes of the Toura offer technical red runs where carving comes into its own. Off-piste enthusiasts will find what they are looking for on the north faces, similar in exposure to those of La Grave, which is accessible from the top of the area. The Grand Couloir, the Clot de Chalance, and the Dôme glacier offer serious routes that require a mountain guide.

The snowpark and freestyle culture

Les Deux Alpes built its reputation in the freestyle world beginning in the 1990s. The snowpark de la Toura, at 2,600 meters of altitude, is among the largest in the French Alps. The shapers build modules for all levels, including progressive tables, rails of various sizes, and a timed boardercross. The Cool Zone, with its picnic tables facing the kickers, allows you to enjoy the show between runs.

Each summer, the glacier hosts international training camps. Pro riders come to refine their tricks before the winter season. This freestyle energy is palpable in the overall atmosphere of the resort.

Beyond the slopes: the ice cave and the viewpoint

The funiculaire Dôme Express (Dôme Express funicular) carves its path under 40 meters of ice to reach 3,400 meters. At the exit, a 200-meter tunnel leads to the grotte de glace (ice cave). Two high mountain guides, Bernard Lambolez and Bruno Gardent, sculpt a new setting in the ancient ice every winter. Colored lighting plays across the ephemeral statues. Entry costs 6.50 EUR (about $7).

Friendly tip: Book a Thursday morning during the holidays for the Secrets of the Funicular activity. At 8:15 am, a guide shows you the inner workings of the machine before it opens to the public. The meeting point is at the Jandri cable car ticket office.

The Belvédère des Écrins (Écrins Viewpoint), a footbridge suspended over the void, offers a 360-degree panorama of the Meije, the Barre des Écrins, and the surrounding glaciers. Non-skiers can access it with a daily pedestrian pass.

The resort atmosphere: between tradition and nightlife

The main avenue stretches for two kilometers, lined with sports shops, restaurants, and bars. The 1970s architecture dominates, without particular charm, but the energy that emanates from it more than makes up for it. In the evening, the après-ski is in full swing at the Pano's Bar where a DJ mixes starting at 3 pm. The municipal patinoire (ice rink) of 1,800 square meters is open from 4 pm to 10 pm, free for holders of a ski pass.

For a traditional break, the Venosc gondola descends in eight minutes to the old village. Its cobblestone streets house artisan workshops and century-old houses. The contrast with the high-altitude resort is striking every time you visit.